New 2013 XKR Detailed and Loaded for Delivery
DGL, what's the maker of your wrap? I recently got mine done with X-Pel Ultimate. Bubbles are almost inevitable at first on that wrap. Over time (maybe a week or so), especially with time in the sun, many of them will go away. Those that don't can be individually eliminated by the installer, who in my case injected each of them with a liquid solution, one by one. Gone now....
I'll be very interested to hear how you feel the Dynamic Pack & Performance Exhaust changes the driving experience from the 175 on roads you're already familiar with. I didn't have the chance to do that.
In my (not yet published) article for Jaguar Enthusiast, I describe the idle sound of the crossover exhaust, once it drops from the faster idle at startup, as "like a dragon gargling"
DGL, what's the maker of your wrap? I recently got mine done with X-Pel Ultimate. Bubbles are almost inevitable at first on that wrap. Over time (maybe a week or so), especially with time in the sun, many of them will go away. Those that don't can be individually eliminated by the installer, who in my case injected each of them with a liquid solution, one by one. Gone now....
I hope the bubbles come out over time. However, I talked to them today and they seem very service oriented and said they will make things right. I told them I will do what every I need to do to make things work out. The car is along ways away from Florida now. Shipped it in a closed trailer. Car arrived in perfect condition.
I'll post a review comparing my 175 to this beauty when I get a chance. I need to slowly break the car in for maybe 2,000 miles or so keeping the rpm's low. I'll check with Jaguar Service about the proper break in period, if any, before pushing the revs over 4,500 to 5,000. antone know about proper break in procedure?
XKR 75 Acceleration
Must do it again properly - maybe in a tunnel, in paddle-shift mode so the dynamic zorst valves stay open.
My manual (MY11) says:
So, no rev limit once it's at operating temp, but no heavy braking for the first 500km, and no full throttle blasts and keep it under 190km/h for the first 1,500km. And no track days until you hit 8,000km.
RUNNING-IN
Apart from a few precautionary recommendations, there are no strict running-in procedures for this vehicle.
By observing the following advisory precautions you will ensure maximum engine, transmission and brake life for your vehicle.
Engine
Allow the engine to reach operating temperature, before operating at engine speeds over 3 500 rev/min.
Vary the speed frequently.
From 1 500 km (940 miles) onwards, engine speed and acceleration can be gradually increased.
Engine oil consumption
A certain amount of oil consumption is normal. The rate of consumption will depend on the following:
The quality and viscosity of the oil.
Climatic conditions.
The speed at which the engine is being operated.
Road conditions.
Drivers should expect above normal consumption when the engine is new, and after running-in if high speeds are sustained.
Brakes
To ensure that brake pads reach their optimum wear and performance condition, usually within 500 km (300 miles), it is recommended that the following points are observed.
Where possible, avoid heavy or harsh braking, as this can result in damage to the brake pads and discs.
Avoid prolonged use of the brakes, for example, when descending severe gradients.
Frequent light application of the brakes is desirable. This helps to fully bed-in the brake pads.
These running-in guidelines also apply when new brake discs or pads have been fitted.
Final drive unit
During the first 1 500 km (940 miles):
Avoid full throttle applications and do not exceed 190 km/h (120 mph). Observe the national speed limits in the country in which you are travelling.
Do not participate in motor racing events, track days, sports driving schools or similar for the first 8 000 km (4 975 miles).
Apart from a few precautionary recommendations, there are no strict running-in procedures for this vehicle.
By observing the following advisory precautions you will ensure maximum engine, transmission and brake life for your vehicle.
Engine
Allow the engine to reach operating temperature, before operating at engine speeds over 3 500 rev/min.
Vary the speed frequently.
From 1 500 km (940 miles) onwards, engine speed and acceleration can be gradually increased.
Engine oil consumption
A certain amount of oil consumption is normal. The rate of consumption will depend on the following:
The quality and viscosity of the oil.
Climatic conditions.
The speed at which the engine is being operated.
Road conditions.
Drivers should expect above normal consumption when the engine is new, and after running-in if high speeds are sustained.
Brakes
To ensure that brake pads reach their optimum wear and performance condition, usually within 500 km (300 miles), it is recommended that the following points are observed.
Where possible, avoid heavy or harsh braking, as this can result in damage to the brake pads and discs.
Avoid prolonged use of the brakes, for example, when descending severe gradients.
Frequent light application of the brakes is desirable. This helps to fully bed-in the brake pads.
These running-in guidelines also apply when new brake discs or pads have been fitted.
Final drive unit
During the first 1 500 km (940 miles):
Avoid full throttle applications and do not exceed 190 km/h (120 mph). Observe the national speed limits in the country in which you are travelling.
Do not participate in motor racing events, track days, sports driving schools or similar for the first 8 000 km (4 975 miles).
The cross-over ("X") replacement for the central resonator intrigues me as I have been wondering if this would result in a performance gain over the factory "H" connection inside the central resonator. My guess now is that there is a mild performance gain; and perhaps a bit different sound.
For those who are interested there is no need to spend big $$ for the factory part as Magnaflow and Dynamax make not only naked crossover pipes, but also cross over pipes contained within a resonator - all at a very reasonable cost.
For those who are interested there is no need to spend big $$ for the factory part as Magnaflow and Dynamax make not only naked crossover pipes, but also cross over pipes contained within a resonator - all at a very reasonable cost.
Tint World of West Palm Beach, Florida did it. they used Suntek. I believe untek like X-Pel has a memory so markings and scratches come out. I watched a youtube video about Suntek and was impressed by how easy marks in the vinyl cover can be removed with a heat gun. To do my sides 12" up from the door bottom wheel to wheel, head lights, front end and, mirrors, behind rear wheels, and top of rear bumper was $1,100. they also included window tinting.
I hope the bubbles come out over time. However, I talked to them today and they seem very service oriented and said they will make things right. I told them I will do what every I need to do to make things work out. The car is along ways away from Florida now. Shipped it in a closed trailer. Car arrived in perfect condition.
I hope the bubbles come out over time. However, I talked to them today and they seem very service oriented and said they will make things right. I told them I will do what every I need to do to make things work out. The car is along ways away from Florida now. Shipped it in a closed trailer. Car arrived in perfect condition.
It's funny how a number of our members have purchased their cars here in Florida which happens to be the mecca for Jaguar ownership, and yet I needed to find my car up North during the winter where prices are more realistic and low mileage cars are available. Go figure! FYI, I also have a Suntek clear bra and it has the same characteristics as Xpel ultimate. It seems that the installers were having issues with 3M, Xpel and the adhesive and went to Suntek. No bubbles or issues of any kind with Suntek other than it does change the color of the silver paint during certain lighting. This may very well be characteristic of any clear bra on 3 stage paint, especially Silver.
Last edited by bocatrip; Dec 30, 2013 at 07:24 PM.
It's funny how a number of our members have purchased their cars here in Florida which happens to be the mecca for Jaguar ownership, and yet I needed to find my car up North during the winter where prices are more realistic and low mileage cars are available. Go figure! FYI, I also have a Suntek clear bra and it has the same characteristics as Xpel ultimate. It seems that the installers were having issues with 3M, Xpel and the adhesive and went to Suntek. No bubbles or issues of any kind with Suntek other than it does change the color of the silver paint during certain lighting. This may very well be characteristic of any clear bra on 3 stage paint, especially Silver.
protectivefilm | JANUARY 24, 2013
I agree with most of the posts here...to wrap your entire car unless you are going to track it is usually overkill. It's best to protect the areas that are the most likely to get damaged:
Hood, Fenders, Front Bumper, Headlights, Mirrors, Door Edges, Rear Bumper Top and Rocker Panels
We've done 12 of the new Tesla S Models and this is what 90% of them have done...some have done more, some have done less.
As for film...it really becomes the old Ford vs Chevy debate...depends on who your talking to and what film they currently are using or are getting the best price on and also the ability of them to install easier or harder films.
I've been doing clear bra's for 12 years now and have 2 locations (AZ and SoCal) and have done over 25,000 clear bra's and vehicle wraps with 13 installers between the 2 locations. And if there's one thing I've learned...to each their own. I was a die hard 3M only installer/owner and we slowly converted everything over to the Xpel Ultimate film (10 year warranty and self healing) not because of price (higher than everything else), not because it was easier to install (actually takes 20% longer to install), but because it looks the best, is super easy for the customer to maintain, has self healing qualities, and if there is an issue Xpel pays us the installer to remove the film and replace - so there is no reason for us to ever argue with a customer if the film is under warranty. I've been using the Xpel patterning software for 12 years and they've done everything I could ever ask for. I've used SunTek, 3M, VentureShield, Llumar, SolarGard, Avery...you name it, and every manufacturer knocks on my door because of the volume of film we use...and at the end of the day I go right back to Xpel Ultimate.
If you want to check us out online, please peruse the forums, google us, ask around, email me for references and I think you'll find that I don't up-sell people on things they don't need and have very satisfied customers (Tesla Referrals upon request)
At the end of the day, just make sure whoever you use, and whatever film they use that they know what they are doing!! Make sure that they have adequate business insurance, workers comp, liability and so on, you don't want to be stuck holding the bag if they damage your electronics, paint or fall on your garage floor!
Hope I didn't bore you with my reply...
~ Ryan
SUNTEK VS XPEL VS ...? PAINT PROTECTION FILM
nickjhowe | JANUARY 17, 2013
I'm getting my car wrapped next Thursday (full front end, full hood, full doors, rear fenders, rear bumper).
The company offers both Suntek and XPEL ultimate film, but have recommended Suntek because of the better (in their opinion) healing properties. I know at least one person on the forum has used XPEL. Anyone else got experience of either product (or any others) and can offer an opinion?
Thx
Suntek has a 5 yr warranty. I am going with the XPEL due to its 10yr warranty. I didn't see a rear bumper kit offered by XPEL. Is your guy doing it custom?
So who knows....
BTW: My 2009 Jaguar XKR Portfolio Edition came from Florida.....a leased car and in mint condition with 13500 miles in May 2013.......There are lots of premium cars in the Miami area with low miles changing hands all the time.
If I were to prioritize between the quality of the product versus the installer's expertise, although I want both, I would have to say: get the best installer you can find, and whatever product chosen should do the job.
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