I've had my "new-to-me" 2007 XK coupe for a few days now. It's only got 48,000 miles on it, however I'm wondering if it should ride like it does. I'm unfamiliar with the ride quality except by legend.

At times, on our abused Michigan roads, it feels as if the rear road wheels are loose on the studs, at 40 - 50 mph. No noise, and then, after a lane change, or a few yards later, everything's good and smooth again. The car has almost brand new Hankook Ventus V12 Evo tires. I have also noticed a rattle from the front end when going slower (10 - 20mph). Anyone with any thoughts about what the symptoms might be cause by? I usually drive a 1998 Range Rover, so this is new territory. The car appears to have a good service history, but then, CarFax isn't exactly the "whole truth and nothing but the truth"...

 

Odds are that after 10 years all the rubber suspension bushings need to be replaced.

 

Thanks, Stuart. I had a fleeting thought that would be needed, especially as it's been in Florida it's whole life...

Apart from my local friendly Jaaaag dealerships (3), who supplies said bushings?

 

Before I would jump to any conclusions and start throwing money at it I would get it checked out. Don't know your DIY skills but if you can get it on a lift and start looking at the various suspension parts it might tell you where some of the issues are. If you can't then search for either a good dealer or independent and get it looked at and assessed as to what needs to be done. Just my 2 cents.

 

Speaking from experience upon inspection of my xk I noticed the following at roughly 40k miles

Front
- Tie rod ends (rack ends,track rods)

Rear
- Sway bar linkage
- Lower control arm bush
- Upper control arm bush
- Camber adjustment tie rod

Yet to change the rear components out as I will do the lot once I install the diff

 

Yes, Jagtoes. While driving today, I was thinking that process through, too. My BFFs at the closest Land Rover emporium recently acquired a Jag dealership a few blocks down the road, so they now have their technicians. I didn't have the car certified and didn't buy a warranty either, on the basis that after wrench slinging Rovahs for 20 years, I'd have a go with Ms Kitty...

 

Read everything you can find and assume nothing without looking yourself.

Example...
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-strut-182537/

 

OEM or polyurethane bushings? Read this: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-178703/ and this: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-173715/page2/

 

What the OP has described sounds very similar to what mine does. Mine's a 2010 XKR with 80K miles on it. If I accelerate briskly, especially whilst changing lane or direction, I get a distinct sensation of squirming from the back end for a moment or two. After that all is fine.
There were advisories on the last MOT that there were some worn bushes in both the rear arms so I assume it's due to that, but it also has too wide tyres fitted for the rims on the back (295 where it should be 285) so I'm going to wait until I get new rears fitted of the correct size before investigating further.
I've kinda got used to it now anyways.

 

I have the same tires that you have and can vouch for them. They are excellent for our cars and if yours are relatively new, I would cross them off the list as the culprit.

 

That car will be tight with all new bushings around!

 

News Flash! Problem identified and resolved!

So, I took my car to a dealer and described the issue. On the four post lift, the tech grabs hold of the front right (pass. side) wheel and gives it a good shake and diagnoses worn tie rod ends. Phew, I'm thinking, but interesting they clapped out in less than 50K miles. Oh well, who knows? Maybe Ford's cost cutting afflicted the steering components. Service writer presents me with an estimate of $950 to fix tie rod ends and align front end. I decide to gracefully withdraw and he suggest driving veeeewy caaaarefwy home. I do that and stop in my local OReilly's Parts store - new TREs are $27 a side, sir! Get the car home, jack it up only to find the passenger side TRE with the nut nearly backed off the whole thread, and the taper not engaged in the steering knuckle! Nearly faint. All that was needed was to tighten TRE nut back to torque spec. Phew. Saved $950! WHen service writer calls to book in car for replacement TREs - they had to order them - I could explain his tech jumped to a conclusion and didn't even remove wheels to verify. Red face...

 

Replaced both tie rod ends at 40k miles thinking the low profile 20" senta wheels contribute to a lot of the worn bushes that I have replaced on my vehicle .

 

This, and the linked post, just reinforce the idea that diagnosis has to follow a logical sequence. When a problem develops after a repair or some maintenance is done it is a good idea to check and see if the repair was done properly or if something was damaged in the process. If the car is taken to a shop it is better to explain the problem or complaint without suggesting the source of the problem or recommending replacing certain parts. The mechanic will often change what they are directed to do because the customer has requested it. I know, that is easier said than done, I've done it also. Luckily (?) I'm not in the position to just throw money at a problem so I try to proceed slowly and carefully.

 

Tie rod ends at 50K miles doesn't sound like the norm to me. I don't recall ever changing them on any of my cars until I was over 100K regardless of tire/wheel combination. I just changed out the struts , lower ball joints and Tie rods on my wife's Volvo. Had 350K on it when I did it and the rod ends were still good. As far as the mechanic screw up I would have taken a picture and gone back to the place and tell them and cut ties with them.

 

I would be very wary of just tightening the nut. Because the nut was loose most likely the tapered bore for the tie rod end has been damaged. Also, reading the service manual, the nuts are not to be reused. Most likely because they are self locking and don't hold well after the first use.

At the very least I'd keep an eye on it although I'd probably drop the tie rod out and inspect the bore too.

 

Although in my previous post I said that Hankook Ventus V12 Evo tires are excellent, I now own Continentals and I think they are better than the Hankook tires for all weather conditions. Something to consider when doing winter driving.

 

I replaced both TREs to be safe!

 

The dealership is also my preferred Land Rover service center. I'll weigh one event over 15 years of Rovah service by one of the BEST techs you're likely to encounter.

 

Hmmm.... that's something to consider, but I VERY rarely drive in wet, and never in snow. How are they in the dry? Oh, did you say All-Weather or ALL weather? Important distinction there...