I am looking to buy a 2013 xkr. I have found one with 62,000 miles. Looking into the carfax, it shows that it has been hit in the front and repaired. It is missing a engine cover too. How much should be taken off the offer price? What is a good price to buy it for? Not being a good auto negotiator, any help would be great. The price is $28,999 for a Audi dealer. https://www.cargurus.com What would be a good price for this car? Any help would be appreciated. Ya'll have saved me before. I did not buy the xkr offered thru Autonation since it had a lot of problems and was not taken care of. Thanks

JDg

 

Totally avoid damaged/repaired XKRs! There are enough available that you won't need to settle for a damaged car. At $29k, you could find an undamaged one with probably fewer miles. Shop Around! They are out there, and don't be afraid to travel to make a purchase! I'd think that most of the members in this forum have bought cars out of their own state, as I did. I got my 2010 XKR from Park Place near Dallas as a CPO off-lease for the mid-30s about six years ago.

 

It's all about doing your homework and then determining what you want and ho much you want to pay. It took me 6 months to find mine and I had feelers out to several major dealers. Also did a daily search on all of the car sites and would spend time every night checking in. My search took so long because I didn't want to settle for any car that didn't meet my color criteria. I could have bought many cars at low miles but I didn't want the color choice. When I found mine I paid the price but I got what I wanted. Considering these cars are getting older and the mileage is creeping up you may have a hard time finding a good low mileage one. So I would look for a clean un-hit car with average miles one it and pay the price. I just sold my 2012 with 26K on the clock for $34K.

 

Agree 100%. Stay away from any XK in a collision unless it's minor paint work. The factory manufacturing process with all the rivets is super difficult to duplicate. I'd pass. There are plenty of cars out there....PLENTY!

 

In addition to the good advice above ...

You used CarFax for EXACTLY what it was intended - it disclosed a fatal flaw that gave you a reason to NOT BUY that car.

But what about a "clean" CarFax? Don't fall for it. CarFax reports only that which is reported to them, and a lot of stuff isn't reported to them. You can't rely on a clean CarFax to buy a car, no matter what the seller tells you. You are responsible for doing your own due diligence. You're not buying a used Prius; you're buying a 5.0L XKR that cost over $100K when new and the parts and labor to fix it ain't cheap.

So what are you supposed to do? Service records are great, but they're no guarantee of a disaster waiting to happen. I highly recommend that you pay a Jaguar dealer (local to where that car is) to do a Pre Purchase Inspection using the Jaguar Certified Pre-Owned checklist. That will disclose any necessary mechanical repairs together with a cost estimate that you can use to negotiate a lower price from the seller. Because the PPI doesn't disclose paint or body repairs, you should also pay a body shop that is authorized by Jaguar to do aluminum repairs to do a PPI for any structural or cosmetic body and paint work. The cost for each varies, but figure around $250 each. Trust me, it's money well spent.

Or you can disregard my advice and roll the dice. Your money, your call.

 

I thought you'd like to see how it's made.

 

On buying a used Jaguar xkr I always plan to have it inspected by a Jaguar dealer and body shop before I buy it. Better safe than sorry. The 2005 Jaguar I purchased it in OK. I flew up there, took it to a dealer, and went thru the car completely before i purchased it. I found out several things that I did not know but was not bad enough to fly home. So I purchased the car and drove back to Houston. It was a nice drive home. Very few things went wrong on that car.

It has been awhile since I owned a Jag. I have a few questions on the newer ones ( 2012-2015s ). Am I going to have to buy a trickle battery charger and leave it on until I drive the car. I plan to drive on weekends and some weekdays but not all the time. The previous Jags that I owed(1999, 2005) I did not have to do this. I just parked them and drove them on weekends and some weekdays and did not worry about the battery. Am I going to have to buy a oil vacuum when I change the oil? Thanks

Thanks Stuart for the video.

JDog

 

Although forum members say to have a trickle charger always hooked up I don't and mine is basically a weekender,sometimes I don't start it for weeks and no issues.

 

For the small cost of a CTEK, I'd say it was good insurance on a car that is known to be super critical with regard to its battery and state of its charge. Plus, the CTEK will keep your battery in good condition for much longer, so will probably pay for itself over time. Why cut corners on a part (CTEK) that, in relative terms to the cost of owning these cars, is peanuts?

 

Terminology matters. Note the differences between a battery charger, battery maintainer, and a trickle charger.
https://autofthings.com/trickle-char...rickle_Charger

I keep both of my Jags on smart battery maintainers to keep their batteries fully charged and avoid electrical gremlins. I prefer the CTEK brand.

 

I like CTEK too, and it is the same unit, AFAIK, that Jaguar sell (but for a lot more money). I have one on my XK-R all the time but I don't bother on my X-Type, which gets more use, but can still sit for a week at a time without being used (I also have a truck and my wife has her own car).The X-Type seems to be less demanding of its battery than the XK-R. Or maybe I don't care so much about it, as it is my 'daily driver' (although not used daily as I say).

 

If you think a CTEK from a Jaguar dealer is expensive ...

 

I have 3 CTEK chargers. My XK which gets driven less than 1,000 miles a year is on the CTEK constantly. I changed my battery only once (most likely due to a power outage which caused a drain on the battery). I wouldn't own any collector car without one, especially a Jaguar. When I've gone to my local Jaguar dealership, all I see are extension chords on the floor going to most trunks in the showroom.. They might not be using CTEKs but they are aware of the battery drain scenario.

 

I would probably say $25k, also have the brakes, tires and alignment inspected by an outside inspector. With that mileage, you are right about at the rotation for the 2nd go around for brakes and tires. I bought my 2010 with 37k miles in October 2019, and needed new tires and brakes. I didn't realize it until after I bought it though.