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Are two jacks needed, due to the aluminum construction? Or am I OK just jacking up one side at a time.
The workshop manual doesn't mention this. I have an X351 XJ and it is a big deal in that car to jack up both sides evenly, as to not stress or warp the aluminum frame.
Right, agree. I think maybe because the X351 is a longer wheel base. If this is brake related (from your earlier post, I think one wheel at a time is fine. But if it was going to be on the stands for awhile, I'd lift both, but that's just my comfort level and preference.
The one-corner lift is okay as Sean said, since the opposing corner suspension will take up a goodly amount of the raise. Again as Sean said, that isn't a good idea for any longer than a quick job.
I put the car on axle stands once @GGG . Seeing the car on what looked like a fulcrum freaked me out, so I put the car back onto the ground promptly. There was no way I was going to play in the engine compartment with the car up like that.
While we are discussing jacking points, I've been using in in ground scissors lift and lift the chassis rails under the rockers using two per side 4x4x2" rubber pads as seen in pic below. The pads are usually placed at the furthest end of the lift platform and rest on the bodywork of the rocker panels. This would locate them approximately at the A Jacking Point as noted in GGG's schematic above.
I was initially concerned about cracking or distortion, but its been lifted like this at least 30 times without any issues. As a way of double checking, I always open and shut the doors looking for any misalignment in the striker mechanisms. Being a coupe helps because it is a stiffer unibody.
While we are discussing jacking points, I've been using in in ground scissors lift and lift the chassis rails under the rockers using two per side 4x4x2" rubber pads as seen in pic below. The pads are usually placed at the furthest end of the lift platform and rest on the bodywork of the rocker panels. This would locate them approximately at the A Jacking Point as noted in GGG's schematic above.
I was initially concerned about cracking or distortion, but its been lifted like this at least 30 times without any issues. As a way of double checking, I always open and shut the doors looking for any misalignment in the striker mechanisms. Being a coupe helps because it is a stiffer unibody.
i don't have an answer to your question, but that is an amazing shop set up.... Wow
While we are discussing jacking points, I've been using in in ground scissors lift and lift the chassis rails under the rockers using two per side 4x4x2" rubber pads as seen in pic below. The pads are usually placed at the furthest end of the lift platform and rest on the bodywork of the rocker panels. This would locate them approximately at the A Jacking Point as noted in GGG's schematic above.
I was initially concerned about cracking or distortion, but its been lifted like this at least 30 times without any issues. As a way of double checking, I always open and shut the doors looking for any misalignment in the striker mechanisms. Being a coupe helps because it is a stiffer unibody.
I've got the exact same ... shop stool.
Also, jealous as can be on that in-ground scissor lift setup. That's amazing.
When crawling under the jackstands is no longer an option....
I'm 74 now and too old to be messing around underneath on my creeper. But the 72" lift height has given me another ten years enjoyment working on cars. Figure about 2 or 3 Social Security checks to purchase and another one to install.
PS. My apologies to the original poster. Didn't mean to hijack his thread with a pic.
Properly Jacking an X150 XKR
