Properly Jacking an X150 XKR
#1
Properly Jacking an X150 XKR
Are two jacks needed, due to the aluminum construction? Or am I OK just jacking up one side at a time.
The workshop manual doesn't mention this. I have an X351 XJ and it is a big deal in that car to jack up both sides evenly, as to not stress or warp the aluminum frame.
The workshop manual doesn't mention this. I have an X351 XJ and it is a big deal in that car to jack up both sides evenly, as to not stress or warp the aluminum frame.
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#7
While we are discussing jacking points, I've been using in in ground scissors lift and lift the chassis rails under the rockers using two per side 4x4x2" rubber pads as seen in pic below. The pads are usually placed at the furthest end of the lift platform and rest on the bodywork of the rocker panels. This would locate them approximately at the A Jacking Point as noted in GGG's schematic above.
I was initially concerned about cracking or distortion, but its been lifted like this at least 30 times without any issues. As a way of double checking, I always open and shut the doors looking for any misalignment in the striker mechanisms. Being a coupe helps because it is a stiffer unibody.
I was initially concerned about cracking or distortion, but its been lifted like this at least 30 times without any issues. As a way of double checking, I always open and shut the doors looking for any misalignment in the striker mechanisms. Being a coupe helps because it is a stiffer unibody.
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#8
While we are discussing jacking points, I've been using in in ground scissors lift and lift the chassis rails under the rockers using two per side 4x4x2" rubber pads as seen in pic below. The pads are usually placed at the furthest end of the lift platform and rest on the bodywork of the rocker panels. This would locate them approximately at the A Jacking Point as noted in GGG's schematic above.
I was initially concerned about cracking or distortion, but its been lifted like this at least 30 times without any issues. As a way of double checking, I always open and shut the doors looking for any misalignment in the striker mechanisms. Being a coupe helps because it is a stiffer unibody.
I was initially concerned about cracking or distortion, but its been lifted like this at least 30 times without any issues. As a way of double checking, I always open and shut the doors looking for any misalignment in the striker mechanisms. Being a coupe helps because it is a stiffer unibody.
#9
While we are discussing jacking points, I've been using in in ground scissors lift and lift the chassis rails under the rockers using two per side 4x4x2" rubber pads as seen in pic below. The pads are usually placed at the furthest end of the lift platform and rest on the bodywork of the rocker panels. This would locate them approximately at the A Jacking Point as noted in GGG's schematic above.
I was initially concerned about cracking or distortion, but its been lifted like this at least 30 times without any issues. As a way of double checking, I always open and shut the doors looking for any misalignment in the striker mechanisms. Being a coupe helps because it is a stiffer unibody.
I was initially concerned about cracking or distortion, but its been lifted like this at least 30 times without any issues. As a way of double checking, I always open and shut the doors looking for any misalignment in the striker mechanisms. Being a coupe helps because it is a stiffer unibody.
Also, jealous as can be on that in-ground scissor lift setup. That's amazing.
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GordoCatCar (05-22-2020)
#10
When crawling under the jackstands is no longer an option....
I'm 74 now and too old to be messing around underneath on my creeper. But the 72" lift height has given me another ten years enjoyment working on cars. Figure about 2 or 3 Social Security checks to purchase and another one to install.
PS. My apologies to the original poster. Didn't mean to hijack his thread with a pic.
PS. My apologies to the original poster. Didn't mean to hijack his thread with a pic.
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