So, my 2010 is lowered, I purchased it that way, and after having it shipped up to me and a few weeks driving, its just too low for around here. I like the handling it has, love the stance, but would like to raise it up about 1/4 inch. Is there a good way to do this? Has anyone attempted to put like a spacer in? I havent had the suspension apart yet to see if this is possible, but if it is I'd like to just put a 1/4 inch spacer plate between the strut assembly and the mount. Looking for advice, dont really want to change the springs. The current springs are supposedly "modified H&Rs", according to the crooks I bought the car from.

 

Spacers ought to work, but you'd still be missing some suspension travel. Not a problem if your only issue is ground clearance, but won't help with ride quality. You might be better going back to stock springs; I'm sure some of our fellow forum members will have some lying around after modding their cars.

Sorry, I know that doesn't answer your question, but just thought I'd mention it.

 

It was also my take that most springs on the market (Mina, H&R...) drop the car too far. I would love to see 3/4 to 1" drop for two reasons; 1) It would still leave sufficient shock (damper) travel, 2) it would minimize the alignment setting changes for the non-adjustable rear camber.

I actually started on the project of cutting my factory springs but, abandoned it when I encountered a spinning ball joint bolt that I needed to disconnect for the project. You could have a shop with proper tools try that as stock springs are cheap, about $80 per side.

I was also looking for spacers that could be used with something like the H&R to limit the drop. Could not find any, however, they could easily be custom made. Likely, they would have to be inserted on the lower spring perches. An other factor was that I figured I needed a spacer more like 0.5" or even more for my preferences. That is probably too much of a spacer to be used.

 

The spinning ball joint is easy to get around, just stick an allen key in the end of the screw. The screw is hollow and designed to accept an allen key so only the bolt rotates. Just fit your 15mm (or 18?) wrench first and follow through into the screw end with the allen.

Hope this helps.

 

Wish I knew that when I was working on it. I only realized that the bolt was hollow when I cut a slot in it, using a high speed disk cutter, so that I could insert a screw driver in order to tighten the nut back.

 

Oooh Albert, I'm sorry to hear that but if you just slotted the end it should be still deep enough to accept the allen should you consider giving it another try. FWIW both the upper arm ball joint and the stabilizer linkage ball joint will work this way.

 

PS I do appreciate your "make it work method", only a true wrench man would fashion something to work for him