Removing plastic underpan - what’s the deal?
Hi all!
Later this week I will have a lift available to access the underbody of my XK. The work I need to do is replace both left and right pedestrian safety system crash sensors located on the back of the crash bar (i.e. in front of the radiator).
According to the workshop manual, in order to access the sensors, I will need to pull off the plastic underpan under the engine and then the lower radiator shroud.
This is the first time I will be removing the underpan myself. Any tips here for things to watch out doing this kind of work on the XK?
- Can this reasonably be done alone with car on a lift?
- any unusual tools necessary?
- any other stuff to get done, at the occasion when you have the underpan off and the car in the air with some time on your hands?
Many thanks!!
ter
Later this week I will have a lift available to access the underbody of my XK. The work I need to do is replace both left and right pedestrian safety system crash sensors located on the back of the crash bar (i.e. in front of the radiator).
According to the workshop manual, in order to access the sensors, I will need to pull off the plastic underpan under the engine and then the lower radiator shroud.
This is the first time I will be removing the underpan myself. Any tips here for things to watch out doing this kind of work on the XK?
- Can this reasonably be done alone with car on a lift?
- any unusual tools necessary?
- any other stuff to get done, at the occasion when you have the underpan off and the car in the air with some time on your hands?
Many thanks!!
ter
Last edited by Ter11; Aug 13, 2019 at 03:03 AM.
The under pan is not difficult but it seems to have a million fasteners that you'll want to keep track of for reassembly. With it off is a good time to do a general inspection of anything and everything that is covers. Hopefully, you should find nothing dramatic there and can go about your repair with ease.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Done mine many times, on my back with the front wheels up on ramps. Think a phillips head screwdriver was all that was needed. Don’t forget the fasteners in the wheel well connecting the belly pan to the wheel well liner, or you won’t be able to slide the belly pan rearward to disengage it from the splitter.
Last edited by kj07xk; Aug 13, 2019 at 06:45 AM.
I think only one of mine is phillips. The one that hols the two pieces in place. All the others are torx. Sorry, don't recollect the size. Also note that there are two lower screws in the bottom of each wheel arch that are also part of the million screw happy fun time.
Also in the FWIW category, consider replacing the torx with phillips and stainless or aluminum if you can. It's always a pain trying to grab the right sized torx head. Phillips are everywhere. I suggest this for all parts if you're tearing something apart anyway.
Also in the FWIW category, consider replacing the torx with phillips and stainless or aluminum if you can. It's always a pain trying to grab the right sized torx head. Phillips are everywhere. I suggest this for all parts if you're tearing something apart anyway.
Last edited by Sean W; Aug 13, 2019 at 11:28 AM.
Beyond the fastners there is a little raised bump that fits in a hole in the bumper cover. This is right in the center of the radiator shroud and can be a frustrating reason the radiator shroud wont slide off the bumper cover. FWIW when reinstalling I found it helpful to grease the channel in the radiator shroud so it easily slides onto the bumper cover. BTW I'm not sure you can access the crash bar with just the engine underpan and radiator shroud removed. I think the bumper cover also needs to come off but that's not too difficult - however you'll need an assistant.
Here excerpts from the wsm for what I intend to work on:
br
t
Last edited by Ter11; Aug 14, 2019 at 11:04 AM.
As you know, the bumper cover is what covers the actual steel bumper. It's a royal pain for one person to install or take off. Manual doesn't say you need to pull it. Hafren is indicating you might have to as he apparently needed to a get to the shroud. Try it per the manual first.
Last edited by Sean W; Aug 14, 2019 at 01:57 PM.
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Just noted you have an XK vs XKR - I'm sure the intercooler blocks access to the crash bar from below so as Sean mentions follow he manual and see if you can get the necessary access.
Thanks to all of you here providing input. Was very helpful!
Problem resolved. No need to remove nose cone/crash bar cover. 2 new pss sensors fitted as per wsm instructions. Max. 2h job if working slow and doing it for the first time. Plug and play on 2011 NA model (may be different for SC and earlier models. In case of earlier models you should drill new hole to use the 2nd generation sensors).
Br
ter
Problem resolved. No need to remove nose cone/crash bar cover. 2 new pss sensors fitted as per wsm instructions. Max. 2h job if working slow and doing it for the first time. Plug and play on 2011 NA model (may be different for SC and earlier models. In case of earlier models you should drill new hole to use the 2nd generation sensors).
Br
ter
Last edited by Ter11; Aug 15, 2019 at 09:52 AM.
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