So, continuing from my previous thread (Another Puzzle), lets get all caught up.

A few months back I discovered I had a problem. After talking in the Forums and doing the research, it was discovered that it was not a blown head gasket but it was instead a blown Transmission Cooling line inside the Radiator that blew and caused all the problems. With life being what it is, it took me awhile before I could get to actually fixing it. I ordered a new Radiator since mine was definitely bad, a new DCCV since that was on my list to be replaced anyway and since I was gonna be right there... I also ordered the new Solenoids and the sleeve since I knew that the solenoids were what contributed to the problem to begin with. I already had the new Transmission oil pan with filter as I was gonna replace that over the weekend anyway. So the Solenoids took 6 weeks to get as they were literally on a slow boat from china. And since I was still recovering from my shoulder surgery, I was ok with them taking their time getting here.

Once I got all the parts, I pulled the Jag into the garage and lifted her up. Started with draining the Radiator and boy there was alot of sludge that poured out. The most memorable thing about it was the smell. I started pulling the transmission cooling lines and those came off ok and appeared pretty clean. The hoses were bad. As I was taking them off you could see the sludge built up inside of them. I then moved onto the Transmission. I figured that taking care of the transmission first would be the smarter route. Good thing too as this was the ah ha moment. I started to drain the transmission fluid and what do I smell? The same smell from the radiator. That confirmed it. It wasn't oil but transmission fluid that had pumped thru the cooling system. After draining the transmission I removed the Transmission Oil Pan and discovered where the leak from the Transmission had been coming from. The entire seal around the pan was shot. You could visibly see where the transmission fluid had been pumping out past the seal. It was definitely ready to be replaced. Next I pulled the TCM and this gave me a better look inside the transmission. Fortunately everything inside was fairly clean so it didn't look like any antifreeze and back flowed and leaked into the transmission. This was a good sign. I replaced the the Solenoids and was able to put everything back together quite nicely and very easily. Put it back into the transmission and then installed the new oil pan and filter. Everything went together perfectly. It was beautiful.

Now it is at this point that I should point out something very important. If you are trying to do this with out the Shop Manual or without looking up the Torque Specs first, that's a REALLY bad idea. The Transmission Filter/Pan is plastic. P.L.A.S.T.I.C. That means if you over torque it because you think that Gorilla Torque is an actually thing... REALLY A BAD IDEA. Download the shop manual. It takes a few seconds and will save you alot of time and money.

With the Transmission put back together and ready to accept fluid, it was time to finish removing the Radiator. I got the DCCV all disconnected and removed, that was too easier. And then I ran into the current problem. Where the hell were the connections for the wiring harness to disconnect the cooling fan??? Again... I should have followed my own advice and looked at the shop manual and actually read the instructions. Remove the bottom plastic below the radiator... fml... No wonder I can't find anything. So now the Jag has been sitting, in the garage, on Jacks, for 2 weeks. All because I didn't remove the stupid guard under the radiator... Yup... Read the instructions fellas.

And I wonder why the wife is pissed at me when I tell her I wanna go Diving on Saturday...

 

So after work yesterday, I started digging back into the Jag. Made a deal with the wife that if I want to go Diving on Saturday, I better atleast show some progress on the Jag. Removing the plastic cover from below the radiator was smart. As soon as I did I could see the 3 connectors for the wiring harness connected to the fan shroud. They popped off pretty easily. Next were the two bolts connecting the A/C Cooler to the front of the radiator. Alot easier to get to from under the car. I removed them and then the Radiator slid right out (with a little wiggling and coercion ofcourse). Once the radiator was out I was able to easily disconnect the hoses attached to the DCCV and remove it. And Holy S#$T!!! The bottom nipple of the DCCV was completely clogged. It looked like it was packed with mud. This now leads me to believe even more than before that this car was probably a flood victim at one time. Not 100% on that, but there's alot of compelling evidence. I took a screwdriver and started shoving it up the hose to clear out the crap that was in there. used my longest screwdriver (about a 7" shank) so I could get in as deep as I could. After pushing 90% of the screwdriver up the hose and pulling out what appeared to be nothing but mud, it finally broke thru and fluid just poured out all over the floor. This definitely explains why the heat and A/C didn't work in the car. (pictures to follow)

Next, I pulled the new radiator out of the box and started to get ready to put it in. Checked it over, made sure everything matched up with the old radiator and discovered, that one of the plastic hooks, clips on the front of the radiator was broken. I found the broken piece and took a close look at it. Nice clean break. And, since it was plastic, I busted out the trusty Double Bubble aircraft epoxy and proceeded to epoxy the **** out of it, That radiator will break in half before that epoxy breaks. (more pictures to follow) And that's where I left off at. Figured I would let the epoxy dry and then I will try and put it all back together today after work. Atleast get it to the point I can start the flush on Sunday. Because I'm going diving tomorrow. Even if the wife objects.

 

Well done. Keep us posted....

Sorry that you may indeed have a flood vehicle. No one should ever have to suffer through having one of those foisted on them....

 

I'm not making the connection with how mud would get into your cooling system in a flood scenario. More likely a PO has added some unauthorized coolant - of the kind that turns to a gel-like substance when mixed with the special Jaguar Pink or whatever it is. Plenty of reports hereon about the propensity of that to happen.

 

Previously I had found some evidence that it was possible. Finding sand in areas there shouldn't be as well as other little hints in and around the engine and engine compartment. Now what you are saying is entirely possible as well. Right now it's all just an assumption as I have no real proof to back it up. However, I figured I would upload the pics of the DCCV I took off in hopes that someone else might be able to give me a better answer. As you can see in the bottom tube it is completely jam packed with what appears to be a dried mud. I had to clean the hose out by using a screwdriver to dig and scrape it out. It was quite nasty.

 

So after putting everything back together, I put in about 5 liters of Trans fluid and filled the radiator with some water and cleaner to perform the flush. I wanted to fill the Trans first so I could knock that out right off. After putting in the Trans fluid, I went to start the car to let it run for the 2 mins the FSM calls for, and discovered that the car wouldn't start! It's possible that because the car had been sitting for so long that the battery just didn't have enough of a charge on it to start the car. So I put the trickle charger on it to charge the battery up a bit and I will try again today after I get home. I am afraid however that this is not the case. I may have to drop the trans pan again and make sure that I installed all the TCM components correctly. This is the only thing I can figure. Everything else is hooked up, and I get no PATS codes, so I'm not quite sure. All I can do at this point is go back over everything and hopefully figure it out.

 

For crying out loud, do not re-use that seized-and-failed DCCV. Replace it with one you source from Motorcraft. New DCCVs from various sources have proven to be bad right out of the box, and over the past five or six years the ones from Motorcraft tend to be the least likely to be faulty....

 

Below is the tightening sequence for the ZF 6HP26/28/32 pan bolts.

 

Yea. That's not going back in. I replaced it with a new DCCV. There was no way that one was going back in there. The thing I did want to point out was the crap that was built up inside of it. Pretty nasty **** really. Can't figure it out. It's kind of a sandy almost mud like texture. In all the years I've worked on cars, I've never seen anything like it.

 

Just surf the site...there's plenty!
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...2/#post1714570

Based on what's observable in the relatively wide aperture of the valve....it does cause one to wonder how the tiny passages in the heater core and radiator are looking....

 

I did have to dig the bottom hose(common return line) out to clear it. As soon as I cleared the blockage (which was about 6 inches deep), fluid started pouring out of the line. Both upper lines drained with no problems as far as I can tell. As soon as I can get the starting issue fixed, I will be performing a flush on the cooling system. Hopefully that will clear any other crap out that might be in there. The down side is that a proper flush can take 4 to 9 hours depending on how bad the system is. And considering the Transmission cooling line inside the radiator blew and that was the cause of most of this, I have no doubt I'm looking at a very long day.

 

Soo... It took me several days to do however the Radiator/Cooling system flush is complete. Now, I just have to add in the new thermostat, add the Coolant, and then put the rest of the covers on the engine and that part will be completed! Yay! That's one problem fixed. However, now there's a new problem. I replaced the Solenoids in the transmission, put the TCM back in, installed the new Filter/Pan and put 9 1/2 Liters of trans fluid in. That's all it would take as I'm sure there was still some left in the Torque converter. After all that work, I discovered there is no power in reverse. In fact, reverse doesn't work at all. In drive, the car doesn't hardly want to move at all. But it does move. So I ran the codes and found these codes:
P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire
This doesn't really surprise me as I have already replaced one Coil Pack that was in really bad shape that was causing a misfire. I noticed others were pretty bad to so I was expecting that I would have to replace one of them eventually.
P0765 - Shift Solenoid "B"
I have discovered that this is the #4 shift solenoid. I'm assuming that it's bad. Not surprising as in many forums I have read that even when you buy new parts, they don't always work the way they are supposed to. I'm sure it's bad and I'm gonna have to replace it.
P1000 - Powertrain
Generic Fault Code that doesn't really mean anything
P1316 - Powertrain
Refer to P0300 possible sources
Associated with P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire . Just a general misfire detected code
P1647 - Powertrain
Concern with LH heated oxygen sensor (HO2S 2/1)
This can also be associated with the misfire. If a cylinder misfires it can cause a bad O2 sensor reading.

So I've ordered the new Coil Pack to replace the #2 coil. That will fix the misfire and hopefully the O2 sensor issues. Should be here middle of the week. As for the transmission issues, I'm still trying to figure that out. I'm assuming I am goint to have to replace the #4 solenoid, but I don't know if that is going to fix the issue. I'm hoping it will. Any suggestions would not be looked down upon. I'm not strong in transmissions. They are kinda my week point. I'd rather rebuild the entire engine then deal with the transmission to be honest. So looking for some hints.

 

So, new update as it has been awhile. Sorry for the long absence. Bought a house, moved, went diving several times and let the Jag sit in the garage on jacks for 6 months. Got a little frustrated. During that time I tried multiple times to get the Transmission to work. Installed the new solenoids, no go. Removed them put the old ones back in, same shift problems and fault codes. How does that Quote go? "Stupidity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result."? Or something like that. Yea. That was the last 6 months. Finally took a different angle. Pulled all the Solenoids I had. New and old and bench tested them. Interesting discovery! Of the new solenoids, 2 were bad! One had a broken plastic piece around the lower o-ring which was allowing fluid to pass by, and the other was reading 0 ohms of resistance! Found my problem! Tested each of the Solenoids and the good ones all read 5.4 ohms. The 2 black ones (old and new) both read about 10.2 ohms. All within tolerance. So, I put the good new ones in first and then in the remaining 2 slots, used 2 of the old ones. TAH DAH!!!! SHE LIVES!!!!!!! I took the car for a test drive and at first I had a couple of Gearbox Faults. Checked the codes and they all related to low fluid. No problem. Easy fix just topped off the fluid. (which by the way is a pain in the ***.) Cleared the codes and continued on. Shifting was a little rough at times, but no Fault codes or Gearbox Faults! Been driving her the last 3 days and the shifting is getting better. I seem to remember reading somewhere that after the Solenoids are replaced, the TCM goes thru a relearning phase for the 1st 100 miles I think. Or something like that. But, the shifting is getting better each day I drive it. So a little progress!

Now to figure out where the heat went and then replace the brakes and tires next. Oh this jag...

 

Thanks for the updates.

 

Lots of good work and I am not sure if you know but you can get the JEPC and JTIS for free on this site?
These are the parts manual and shop manual.
Really useful documents.
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personally almost every transmission I have seen over the years that suffers from coolant contamination is trashed. I would have dropped it and taken to a trans shop for a rebuild. even the ones caught early that work when flushed and filled eventually suffer a premature demise.