I thought a year a go when I bought this car , I can fix anything with a screwdriver and a hammer.
Not this thing. It has been a nightmare of electrical issues that Im at the point of selling and taking a loss.

The car runs great, shifts fine, rides good is comfortable and good looking.

The Top quit working out of the blue. Scans are anywhere from Battery Permanent fault to 3 different intermittent faults. I got codes but that aint the point.

I keep getting PB fault even though I changed out the PB Module , twice. and it happens at irregular times, sometimes clearing itself , sometimes not. . Lost communication with module.

If the PB issue is the actuator, of which I have successfully connected to it and made it move back and forth, then Im gonna burn the car down and claim insurance.. Not really but , in order to change the actuator you have to drop the K member. Thats ridiculous.

The rear seat junction box , when I pulled the connectiors about half had green corrosion inside the connector on the box side. I cleaned , every single pin and receptacle to no result.. All Fuses work and verifed to be in good condition.

I have followed the schematics for the electrical system and identified , cleaned and checked all Ground points for the PB and the TOP. No results.

The logic function of both of these , PB and TOP are so interlinked that one may be causing the other to not work, or it at least it seems that way. When I run a full scan I get several "cant communicate" errors that are daisy changed, i.e ABS cant comm with PB, PCM cant comm with ABS, ect ect.

Unless I can get some insight / help / divine intervention, then this car is destined for a different owner and thats a shame.

 

Sorry to hear about all the issues MD, are you using the Jag SDD software?

 

ok, I’ll bite.
If the battery is indeed, not the cause:
1. Green corrosion!?! Is this a flood car?
2. Does fuse 18 have a hairline crack?
3. Replaced the mod twice… very much doubt its the mod, unless you replaced them with defective ones. But what about the wiring from the fuse box to the mod?
4. Are the fuse box terminals tight? Scratch that. Replace the box??
5. Stop using your scanner for a minute. Unless it shows the full jag code. (what scanner is it, btw). Perform a full systems reset.
6. damn. green corrosion. where else does this show? As per the electrical guide, check ALL connectors to all mods, ecm, etc.

 

Double post

 

Green corrosion is a big red flag. Instead of telling you to deal with it. Sell it to your insurance company. Get another XK. Theyre not all like this. I think you may have have a car that was rained on. Even if it had been detailed, someone left the top down during a storm at some point.

 

Other grounds , ECM , Engine bay ect checked out OK.

 

Could not agree more. I just finished a full resto on a 1971 Camaro , and upgraded it to 2012 electrics.. That effort pales in comparison to this car. The vehicle is just overly complicated.

 

Resolved.

Replaced Top and PB modules. Works fine for now..

 

Glad you got it to work! If I ever seen that kind of corrosion I’d be done with it. Glad the car has a great owner.

 

Thanks.

Its been a chore. This car has way too many interlaced computer systems.
When they are working , all is great.
I even experimented with installing a 2012 fuse box, much to my dismay it wasnt the same. Fortunately it only tripped a couple of things that were reset when i put the CLEANED fusebox back in.
Used PB box $60 Used Top Box $80 Working car , almost priceless
Car has 91K miles on it and has a lot of spunk left.

So, Can I add the 4.2 SC ?

 

I hear ya man. My 2007 has 140k on the clock and its got many more miles to go!