I reckon the battery is suspect. Since you live in a colder climate, I’d go with higher CCA, 900 plus. Amp hours are recommended to be 90 but it’s not that important unless you leave the car electrics on frequently without the motor running or leave it off the CTEK for extended periods. I believe most X150s were fitted with flooded batteries due to the charging profile of the alternator/BMS. For a proper fitment you’ll need a H8 group size.

 

Hi all, jutst to follow up, battery is discharged badly, he is somewhat surprised I haven't had any starting issues.

He is ordering me a new one and he thinks I should be able to get a new one under warranty, so even better I will see if this fixed anything

The battery was more charged this morning and I was able to get the phone to sort of connect. So I am thinking this is all power related.

Oh, and I am going. With a flooded battery. I will tell you guys the type etc when he gets it in

 

Doesn't matter whet interstate recommends. Jaguar recommends replace like for like on their 2010 onward, so if you had an AGM as OEM, use AGM. If you had conventional lead acid battery equipped with you OEM, use that. It has to do with the type of alternator they install I suspect.

Having said all that, there are plenty of owners here who ignore the TSB from Jaguar without issue.

 

Makes sense. Unfortunately, as I wasn't the original owner and the battery has already been replaced, I have no clue what was in the car in the first place. But I am going with flooded since that is what is in there right now. Hopefully that fixes some things!

 

yep certainly will help and probably just fine for another 6 years or so.

 

So I replaced the battery with a new Interstate. I charged the battery overnight (green on the ctek) and installed it this afternoon. Same issues. I am going to try a few new things, another set of USB sticks, i have unplugged my charger from the cigarette lighter.

The issue seems to happen after longer stops, not really sure why. In the plus side, I finally got my phone to pair with the car again.

Oh, and an I teresting fact, my (old) battery that read discharged last week, now reads full charge after being removed from the car... Something odd is happening I think hmm. Maybe a parasitic draw?? No clue

I should note, that when I put in the new fully charged battery, everything worked great at start up.

 

I don't think charging thru the cigarette lighter is a good idea as it will disconnect when the car goes to sleep.

 

Sorry for the confusion, I charge the car through a ctek comfort indicator port in the trunk. The cigarette charging is for my phone. I am just saying that I pulled out the charging unit. It has a light on it that stays illuminated for some period of time, so maybe that is contributing to some parasitic drain? Who knows.

 

So here's a little trick that can work on checking initially for parasitic drains. Use an infrared thermometer and point it at the exposed fuse box after shutting down. You can sometimes see an illumination. Tells you where to start vs pulling fuse by fuse then checking the battery.

 

Thanks for the tip! Should I do this immediately after shut down? Or any time after sitting?

Will have to do some digging

 

Car takes about 30 minutes to shut all components down so you want to wait for that, don't lock it and keep the FOB away then check each fuse box. Doesn't always work but sometimes you can see it. But you can just test it with the car on and running to @ the CJB or AJB, whichever is more convenient to see if your IR thermometer shows anything lit up.

I haven't done it myself but I did watch a friend do it on one of his cars and a fuse did show a draw. The fuse was for the door light though so he ended up doing it the old fashioned way....one fuse at a time.

 

Resolved

With a new battery and a 3rd different USB stick. The issue seems all good now! Hasn't happened in 4 days. Woot!