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Water pump replacement 2011 XK portfolio coupe N/A
Dear Cat lovers,
Do you need to use 2 o-Rings on the oil cooler pipe going to the oil cooler in the manifold valley?.. So 3 o-rings total.. Also I’m using the alloy upgraded Oil Cooler Pipe, not plastic.
Thanks for the help!!!… I heard nothing from anyone!!.. nothing
I just want to say that some people stuck in a pinch rely on others that may have an answer to a question.. And like the cliche goes, no question is a stupid one… It’s just the way you ask it I guess?…
Do I need to use 2x o-rings at the oil cooler block snout pipe intersection?
I just want to say that some people stuck in a pinch rely on others that may have an answer to a question.. And like the cliche goes, no question is a stupid one… It’s just the way you ask it I guess?…
Do I need to use 2x o-rings at the oil cooler block snout pipe intersection?
Just like jahummer said...just the two rings.
Actually, if I recall correctly, one is just a regular o-ring and the other has a slightly different design. Simply set the one regular o-ring in the rear of the water pump and then put the other ring on the cooler. When you reattach the water pump, it will be in there snug enough. But very important note...see how that blue part (I forget the name, but it is the piece between the pump and the cooler) has a wide flange? Look at the lip on the intake/valley pan (again, I forget the part name, but it is essentially the lip on the body of the intake/valley pan that sits behind where the water pump rests). Your blue connector will twist and gain pressure/seat itself against that lip. Give it a try and see if you can tell what i mean. If memory serves, you can put that blue connector on and twist it snug/tight against the lip and then when you reattach the water pump, it will simply tighten up against the blue pipe. It is a little unnerving doing the job but if you practice a few times you will see what I mean. By doing it a few times you will get the confidence that the connector won't fall off and that it will seat properly.
If you get stuck, send me a DM. i will be happy to walk you through this on the phone. Note, I am NOT a mechanic but I have done this job. I found it rewarding to put it all back together with zero leaks.
Actually, if I recall correctly, one is just a regular o-ring and the other has a slightly different design. Simply set the one regular o-ring in the rear of the water pump and then put the other ring on the cooler. When you reattach the water pump, it will be in there snug enough. But very important note...see how that blue part (I forget the name, but it is the piece between the pump and the cooler) has a wide flange? Look at the lip on the intake/valley pan (again, I forget the part name, but it is essentially the lip on the body of the intake/valley pan that sits behind where the water pump rests). Your blue connector will twist and gain pressure/seat itself against that lip. Give it a try and see if you can tell what i mean. If memory serves, you can put that blue connector on and twist it snug/tight against the lip and then when you reattach the water pump, it will simply tighten up against the blue pipe. It is a little unnerving doing the job but if you practice a few times you will see what I mean. By doing it a few times you will get the confidence that the connector won't fall off and that it will seat properly.
If you get stuck, send me a DM. i will be happy to walk you through this on the phone. Note, I am NOT a mechanic but I have done this job. I found it rewarding to put it all back together with zero leaks.
so one o- ring on each end will do the job.. Some call for 2 on the oil cooler block in the manifold valley
You are approaching the job a little differently than me...I took off the intake manifold which had the effect of exposing the plumbing beneath (and that makes it easier to see how it comes together/gets seated.)
You are approaching the job a little differently than me...I took off the intake manifold which had the effect of exposing the plumbing beneath (and that makes it easier to see how it comes together/gets seated.)
I agree but the garage considers that another job and not part of the water pump replacement. So additional cost for labor.. I provided all parts, silicone, clamp pliers, telescopic mirror with led lights, magnetic telescopic tool when you drop parts.. I’m at around 1,600 all in at this point.. The Service advisor is trying to say they will cover the labor if it’s the techs fault.. But how can any of it be mine when to Fking parts are OEM?????… He used 2 orings on the back and 1 on the front of the oil cooler pipe!!!