Yeah, that's what I'm saying. With what's inside there, it would be kind of difficult.

 

True, not much space, with the way the body panel forms a pocket that the unit sits in. But I do wish him success.

 

Changed the High-Pressure fuel pumps on my 5.0 yesterday - front one was good, rear was shot,

Interestingly - the little stumble at idle I had, was completely down to the shot pump,

so If you've got a stumble at idle and have changed plugs, and chased misfires all over the place here's a simple test -

Measure your fuel rail pressure when you start the car
- should go up to 2000 + psi then settle down to warm idle at 690 or so
- turn off engine
- take the rear under tray off and look for the 2 high-pressure fuel pumps on the bottom right side of the engine (from inside car looking forwards)
- disconnect the front high-pressure pump plug
- start engine - check pressures - it should still hold these numbers with one pump.
Stop engine
- reconnect front pump and disconnect rear pump plug
- start and check pressures - anything below 600 on idle is a pump going out

- mine was 47 but could still keep the engine running (barely ) Obviously don't let it run for any length of time.
- alternatively, SDD has a test for this. mine couldn't perform it somehow.

The difference in power now is fecking ridiculous - Clearly, I bought the car with one pump down. it still felt faster than my 5.0 XK but 4000 - 6000 rpm the fuel pressure was dropping - it still pulled but didn't feel fast and on dyno it was at 430hp.

Now it just pulls and pulls and pulls.

SECOND POINT - I bought the Pierberg ones and they worked great but they are a slightly different position where the high-pressure lines attach maybe 5-6mm off... this was a nightmare to get the lines into the correct shape. skinned to bits. buy the JLR ones - otherwise, this isn't a hard job to do.

Next up Crank pulley.

 

Passed TUEV (german MOT) including lowering and spacers (both H&R), full service with rear brake pads and finally some leather care...

 

When Leapers go wlld !!

Was planning on washing the car today ...not likely looks like I need permission first lol

 

Car and cat are looking great Steve.

 

Thanks I've spent a fair chunk of time on maintenance items , just waiting on an engine mount and then I can finally service it .

 

No arguing with that one!

 

Right hand Valve cover leaking oil on to the header not pleasant at all .
Also having cats replaced for 400 cell units next week




All back together and signed off by the supervisor.

 

Russian Blue?

Graham

 

I have two ... Russian blue & Burmese

The Burmese is the one that follows me everywhere and thinks she owns the Jag haha

 

Left hand exhaust heat shield had worked the bolt loose ...had to release nuts from engine mount from underneath and jack up engine at correct angle in order to put replacement bolt in ...very minimal clearance between strut tower & I couldn't believe how close it sits to the fuel lines talking mm's

 

100 cell cats finally gone and replaced by magna flow 400cells wohooo....I can't believe how rich and athletic the vehicle sounds now, no ugly raspiness coming from my exhaust... an absolute pleasure to drive , definitely suits the character of the vehicle .

So the db reading was 85-86 under WOT within the cabin which is exactly what the 100s put out however the sound is very different now a lot more richer & refined .

 

I put the first of what I expect to be many, many litres of petrol in the tank and went for my first drive of more than 3 miles.

 

We now have a new thermostat that open and closes properly.

 

Used Tuff Stuff multi-purpose spray cleaner and a soft bristle brush to successfully clean the tracked-in tar marks off of my caramel-colored floor mats.

 

Found the A/C leak that has been driving me nuts.
Dealer is probably my best bet for the o rings.

 

Tinted/Wrapped red portion of tail light and spoiler brake light , I used a light smoked wrap it's looks very subdue and still retains a factory look ...vastly improved

 

This weekend, I fixed my glovebox...again. Last time, a bit of the sh*tty plastic arm linking the lid to the string had broken off, so I drilled another hole a bit further and that did the trick.
However, that was not taking into account the sheer ignorance/stupidity of that dude at the Jag dealership in Belgium, who actually broke the whole thing off the lid by opening the glovebox and pressing it down too hard (the lid didn't open 100% by itself, due to the string being attached further). Sadly I couldn't prove it as I only noticed the arm was off when I got back home...so I had to find another fix.

The sh*t plastic arm (seriously, how could they come up with such a crappy design in a car like this, instead of using something proper like a hydraulic cylinder?? ) being off and unusable (tried to tie it back to the lid with some little metal blades, but it just broke some more!), all that was left was the string/spring system, and a rectangular hole in the glovebox lid...

So I decided to bend 2 little metal blades and screw them together, to form something that would fit firmly enough in the hole in the lid and to screw a black leather strap cut from an old belt of mine to it. And of course, tie the string to the other end of the strap. It sure took some time and fine tuning, but in the end it works and even doesn't look to bad for a DIY fix, the black leather strap hiding the metal blades.

Picture to follow...stay tuned.

 

Finished the 10% pulley my son got me for Christmas and beautified the SC for reinstall.