When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Wow...thanks much for all the info. I'm looking to have a copy of my SDD on a less clunky (size) computer that I can play with offline at "work", and to have as a back-up in case my main SDD computer crashes.
I ordered R1 concept Geomet rotors and ebc ceramic pads, took my wheels in to get powder coated gloss black, calipers in red, PPF front bumper and headlights, then hood, spoiler and side mirrors wrapped in Stek carbon fiber, engine cover hydrodipped, and refinished my key fobs for 2015 XKR
Next is lower pulley upgrade, polished fresh air intake from Mina, and the rear diffuser, side skirts, and debating X pipe
While the heat was low I ventured outside and with help from my son took the bonnet off the car. The Aircon radiator is toasted. I replaced the main coolant radiator last year and the Aircon radiator has been sitting in the back of the car waiting to be done. I felt good enough to the removal this morning and install the new one later when the car is in the shade and it's cooler. As you can see in the photo it's had a rough life since 2007!!
New one with all new seals etc later. New radiator core
Last edited by unklebuck; Jul 11, 2025 at 10:56 AM.
Thanks I did see that one and I was thrown off yesterday by the fact that the pair of plastic guide posts on the back of it are horizontal whereas the holes on my car are vertical, if you cut them off it has less support and I was trying to figure out do I need to get a specific badge made for the XK, not in XF and not an f type etc?
I figured that out. On the YouTube channel for Life on cars with Paul he showed this and basically what I'd be doing is drilling two more holes laterally so that those posts can go into them. That seems to indicate that the badge attach design varies between Jaguar models. You also have to make sure you get the right size it looks like for XK's it's ~86 mm, they're smaller on some of the other jags.
It's a new day I'm a little more positive I'm now trying to figure out do I want black and silver or should I put red. Thanks guys for the emotional support. It really is a small minor first-world problem I know.
just get some gorilla glue or crazy glue and a little bit of 3M tape and it would be easier to break out of Alcatraz and it would be to get that off the grill. They would have to take the whole grill and possibly the whole front end.
Just calibrated an inop PAX seat using Autel. Dunno how I did it, just fumbled around a bit and the seat started working again. Lots easier than hooking up all the SDD stuff.
Sad Day for me. I sold my 2014 XKR yesterday. Used it to help pay for My Wife's retirement gift to herself (My Idea). I had my dream car for almost 7 years total between the 07 XK convertible (My First Jag that I bought when it was 11 years old) and the 14 XKR (bought 4 years ago) that I sold yesterday. I was lucky enough to have had my dream car twice in my life. It is time for her to have one now.
A nurse for 40 years. When she first started as a nurse, she bought a new car for herself. I thought it would be nice for her to "bookend" her career with a new car. Only her second new car and my first. Since she is into fuel economy more than style and power (lol). She wanted a Rav4 PHEV. We have solar panels on our house, and we should be able to charge it up during the day and not affect our electrical bill. I still get to drive a Jaguar. I am driving the 2016 XF that she used to drive. So, I should be OK, but I will miss my XKR. Many thanks to all for the advice and help over the years. I may see you in the XF forums. Take care and cheers, John My 2014 XKR. My favorite car ever. My 2007 XK. My First Jag.
Today I decided to put a set of new continentals on mine. And a 4w alignment.
No more steering wheel jiggling back and forth or having to have a firm grip to keep her straight.
And woooo the ride is smooth as silk.
@Obtuse1 your hubs are shiny, I’m guessing new.
Mine are basically rust colored.
Is there a best practice for cleaning the rust off without replacing/removing?
Then put something on them to keep them looking nice?
Today I decided to put a set of new continentals on mine. And a 4w alignment.
No more steering wheel jiggling back and forth or having to have a firm grip to keep her straight.
And woooo the ride is smooth as silk.
@Obtuse1 your hubs are shiny, I’m guessing new.
Mine are basically rust colored.
Is there a best practice for cleaning the rust off without replacing/removing?
Then put something on them to keep them looking nice?
The rotors are R1 concept carbon series. I used high temp paint (see below)and then put a coating on the hub and that keeps them clean. Just don’t get any of the coating on the braking pad surface. (Obviously I know you know that) Best way to remove the rust is maybe some type of rust desolver again without getting onto the pad surface, and a drill with a wire brush and maybe some quadruple ought steel wool. I used an old pillowcase to cover any suspension parts that I didn’t want to get anything on. You will probably have to remove your tire though, but that should not affect your alignment… Even if you remove your rotor. You’re not gonna affect your alignment- for rust on the braking pad surface obviously all you gotta do is drive the car and brake a few times and it’s gone, but my rotors came with a coating already on them. I like products from Eastwood. Hi temp exhaust coating then you can coat with VHT Flameproof Coating SP115 clear, or some type ceramic. Just again, don’t get it on the brake pad. surfaces. Google Eastwood products and anything from them is going to work. I use amsoil MP on metal after I clean it or want to look natural like the under carriage. I used 0000 steel wool and a lot of elbow grease on my back box then sprayed with black magic will and undercarriage protected to see if I like that better than Amsoil protectant. You can always take some old parts or bolts and paint or leave natural then coat. Leave outside and see which products protect better. My ‘15 xkr only has 28,000 mi so didn’t have anything but a little surface rust here and there. Just don’t use the quadruple 0000 steel wool on any polished aluminum, but chrome and bare metal it works great. Like chrome exhaust tips will look new. I’ll post some pics down the road as I get them
The rotors are R1 concept carbon series. I used high temp paint (see below)and then put a coating on the hub and that keeps them clean. Just don’t get any of the coating on the braking pad surface. (Obviously I know you know that) Best way to remove the rust is maybe some type of rust desolver again without getting onto the pad surface, and a drill with a wire brush and maybe some quadruple ought steel wool. I used an old pillowcase to cover any suspension parts that I didn’t want to get anything on. You will probably have to remove your tire though, but that should not affect your alignment… Even if you remove your rotor. You’re not gonna affect your alignment- for rust on the braking pad surface obviously all you gotta do is drive the car and brake a few times and it’s gone, but my rotors came with a coating already on them. I like products from Eastwood. Hi temp exhaust coating then you can coat with VHT Flameproof Coating SP115 clear, or some type ceramic. Just again, don’t get it on the brake pad. surfaces. Google Eastwood products and anything from them is going to work. I use amsoil MP on metal after I clean it or want to look natural like the under carriage. I used 0000 steel wool and a lot of elbow grease on my back box then sprayed with black magic will and undercarriage protected to see if I like that better than Amsoil protectant. You can always take some old parts or bolts and paint or leave natural then coat. Leave outside and see which products protect better. My ‘15 xkr only has 28,000 mi so didn’t have anything but a little surface rust here and there. Just don’t use the quadruple 0000 steel wool on any polished aluminum, but chrome and bare metal it works great. Like chrome exhaust tips will look new. I’ll post some pics down the road as I get them
I took my ‘09 XK in to my Indy for the annual lubrication service and PA State Inspection. I’ve been putting off some suspension work but the time came to replace both front lower control arms, 4 wheel alignment. It feels like a new car…no vibration, loose steering…I’ve been struggling for a couple of months with a light problem…switch set to auto, parking lights come on after shutting the car off. My first thought was to check the battery…it’s 6 months old and on my Ctek every night…everything checked out fine there…then the lights would come on when starting the car with the switch in the off position. When I shut the car off I had tot turn switch on, then off to get the lights off. I sourced a new switch on eBay from a 2014…same part number. Had it installed and that was the problem…then a funny thing happened…my led screen between the tach and speedometer has been dim for awhile, lights up once in awhile but mostly dim…after installing the new light switch it’s bright all the time…another Jaguar miracle 😎
Started to replace upper door aperture/quarter window panel seal and seal that goes down from the quarter panel - the seals come out easily but getting them back is somewhat tricky. The "bar stewards" want to pop back out and there is a "technique" the pushing them in the right place. Haven't totally finished as it's getting to the end of the day.
This shot came out a bit too low - what can yer doo?
Performed an oil, oil filter, engine air filters, and cabin filter change as part of routine maintenance. Got to use my new QuickJack for this and now kicking myself for not having acquired it long ago.
Performed an oil, oil filter, engine air filters, and cabin filter change as part of routine maintenance. Got to use my new QuickJack for this and now kicking myself for not having acquired it long ago.
Yeah, looks like he could fit a 2 or 4 post lift in there. I’m stuck with the QuickJack because a frickin I-beam (that I can touch) runs across bays, supporting the second floor.
...looks like he could fit a 2 or 4 post lift in there..
@kj07xk , agreed but I wanted something that I can hang on the wall and get completely out of the way. Plus, as you can see, I mounted the pulley system for raising my Thule car topper at 15 degrees off centerline to avoid the overhead door motor and a recessed light. So I'd have to re-engineer all that for a way to easily back the Denali under the car topper. The QuickJack was the best option for me and I can easily move it to any of the 3 cars in the garage or the 4th that's outside.
@wymjym , you'll want to purchase one of the extended-frame versions (6000TLX or 8000TLX) as the lifting-point spread on our X150s is 62.5 inches. I purchased the 8000TLX bundle so I could also lift our 7300 lb. Denali, but one could get by with a 6000TLX model if only their 4586 lb. X150 is to be lifted. For the X150, I additionally purchased the Pinch-Weld Urethane Rubber Block Set so the downward-facing metal edge on the front-lift point will not damage the rubber blocks.
Until measuring for the lift-point spread, I hadn't noticed that there are arrowheads molded into the rocker panels indicating each of the four lift points (see picture). On my car, they measure 62.5 inches c/c.
