Well the oil fill port is indeed the only way to see any part of the timing chain setup without engine disassembly, but this port looks directly down to the chain that sits between the inlet and exhaust VVT on that bank. For there to be any discernable slack at that point on the chain (i.e. you can move it with a screwdriver poked down the oil fill hole or something) I would imagine the chain would have to be so slack it'd barely run.

If I had to guess, the diagnosis was based on noise rather than a visual inspection.

 

here is the thread
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-sound-215158/

 

Just got my XK 2011 back from annual service at official dealer. They did the oil change with 5w20 according to the invoice.

Br
ter

 

Ter11,

Thanks for the confirmation!

 

If you look at this discussion it's pretty much a moot point. The difference from 5W to 0W is insignificant as the viscosity of 20 is the area of concern. As for the additives they are the same and shouldn't be a concern. My dealer switched last year to 0W-20 at my last annual change. I suspect that when any of these dealers finally use up all of their 5W-20 they will start using 0W-20. Most likely a cost issue as this stuff is bought by the drum and now quart bottles. Just my thoughts here.

 

The instructions say run the engine 5-10 minutes and don't drive the vehicle. Then, change the oil. Is it as straight forward as it sounds or reads?

 

Yes . Done this to mine a few weeks ago

 

Yes you are just giving the oil a good shake- inside the car.

 

yep, although when i did it, i pulled the car up on ramps as usual but left the engine running while adding the flush -- it doesn't like that very much. probably best to turn the car off before popping the oil filler cap off, it seemed to pull a vacuum and cause unnecessary crankcase pressure.

 

Reading through this thread, I've seen a few products mentioned...

A CRC Injector Cleaner in THIS POST. and LubeGuard Engine Flush in THIS POST.


I've heard of people adding injector cleaner to oil before a change, but wanted to confirm what is being recommended here... to add the injector cleaner to the oil before a change, or to the fuel tank before an oil change? I ask because after linking the CRC product, Q&C mentions cleaning oil passages and the like, which would not happen if it were added to the fuel tank.

So, add CRC to fuel tank and Lubeguard to the oil pan twice a year? Add both products to the oil pan (not at the same time)? Clarification please.

 

One error leading to many.

The CRC you add in the tank, cleans oil passages.
Here is how that happens. PEA ingredient in CRC does not burn in the combustion cycle.
So it cleans the injectors and then keeps cleaning rings and so on. This is why they ask you to dump the oil after a while if you use many bottles, its changing the oil viscosity (making it thinner, a good thing) and its increasing the volume. Plus there will be dirt in the oil if its done its job.

So its not like making a baby, you dont just run a tankful and then change the oil. You can, but only injectors cleaned at that stage, it has to work for 1000 miles.
Dont worry about viscosity and oil volume, other than realizing that's why manufacturer recommends oil change. Every quality gasoline adds it to their mix, its never caused viscosity or volume problems.

Understanding the lubeguard.
Put dirty oil in a clear cup, let it sit for an hour and pour it out.
You will see that sediments and some oil remained in the cup- because oil has a glue quality by design.
Now try that same trick with lubeguard added, the cup will be much cleaner, because the glue is broken down.
Your oil pan is the same as the cup.

Why do you want to get the last of the old oil out of there?
If oil oxidizes after 8000miles, it will oxidize much sooner when old oil is added- this is why we dont just add fresh oil to old, we get rid of the old.
Lubeguard gets more of it out, and easier to siphon too.

 

I understand the principal of both products, only trying to get clarification on methodology you were recommending.

Okay... CRC injector cleaner (2x) into the fuel tank, about 1000 miles before oil change (~3 tanks of gas).

Lubeguard can be poured into the fill cap on the engine a few hundred miles (~1 tank) before the oil change.

Of course, for all to remember, this is only a recommendation.

 

Lubeguard engine flush only goes in 2 minutes before engine flush.
Do not drive a single mile with it in the engine.
It destroys viscosity on contact. thus only needing 2-5 minutes, beyond that you have 0w-0weight oil in engine, so not good to drive on or put any load.

 

Perfection. Noted. Thanks for that clarification. I assumed a bit of running to evenly distribute and get it in the passages to clear up any burned oil or sludge, if it were present.

 

I need to find something like that here. What brand is it, where did you buy, and what size input tube worked?

 

Doing my oil change soon...where could I find the torque settings for the oil filter? 2014 XK

 

It's written on the canister, 25 Nm.
But I've never used a torque wrench for this, I just tighten it until it stops turning which happens abruptly.

 

I've just received 8l of 0w20 Castrol oil for my 2010 XKR.

 

All,

I have been corresponding with both, JLR and the Swiss importer of Jaguar and Landrover.

They have both confirmed to me in writing that both of their speced oils for my Xk NA V8 (5.0 litre, AJ133) are still officially recommend, i.e. 5w20 AND the more recent 0w20 spec.

The new 0w20 (STJLR.03.5006) spec has apparently NOT rendered the former 5w20 (STJLR.03.5004) spec invalid.

They do not necessarily recommend to me to switch from 5w20 to 0w20.

br
ter

 

I get whatever oil Walmart has on sale.


Not really, but I'm not super-**** either.