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Visiting from X308 sub-forum. Considering bidding on a CoPart 2010 XK. Not located close enough for me to inspect. From what I understand not just the body panels but also the chassis is aluminum. Correct? From the CarFax it spent its first 10 years in Ohio and from looking at mileage changes it was driven in winter. Most northern X308s have serious to the point of dangerous rust. Is rust an issue I should be concerned about?
The rear sub frame is steel - I have some rust on mine, which I'm gonna tackle when the weather improves. In regards to the front not sure - there is some steel stuff there. There was a post/thread about one member replacing his rusty rear sub frame.
The front engine cradle and A-frame are steel, the rear subframe and K-frame are steel, everything else's aluminum. The paint used on the steel parts is poor quality and rusts easily and quickly. I had my front and rear frames powder coated.
Since OP in Florida, rust would be a thing. My XKR has zero rust anywhere, but it came from Texas and now in Utah where I don't drive in the snow and the summers have very little rain and it's pretty dang arid around here.
Interesting thread.
Are the steel sub frame components relatively easy and accessible to remove?
Does the XK need to be on a lift, to unbolt the parts?
Since OP in Florida, rust would be a thing. My XKR has zero rust anywhere, but it came from Texas and now in Utah where I don't drive in the snow and the summers have very little rain and it's pretty dang arid around here.
Not sure what is OP. I've had three X308s. Two lifetime Florida cars one lifetime Georgia car. Except for exhaust, only rust is on metal piece by rear end where parking brake cable goes from one to two. If you live right on the ocean, salt in the air will contribute to rust.
Even Jaguar stainless steel exhausts rust so don't be surprised the mild steel suspension parts do likewise. However, it's surface rust owing to poor painting on the mild steel rather than deeply structural as on earlier models.
Aluminium isn't free of corrosion. Body panels can develop paint issues in damper climates. Mine had a warranty repair on the front wing next to the vent five years ago but it hasn't come back.
However, a similar patch has recently developed on the roof panel.
The front engine cradle and A-frame are steel, the rear subframe and K-frame are steel, everything else's aluminum. The paint used on the steel parts is poor quality and rusts easily and quickly. I had my front and rear frames powder coated.
Thanks to all for the advice. Those items are thick steel. Would take a lot of rust to rise to a level of structural integrity. I have a lift so treating and/or replaceing doable. Looked and those parts are on eBay for not much. Read stories of 308s going into a shop and they won't put it up on the lift because lift points could collapse. Below pictures are what I feared. If bid, amount will be not more than I could get from a part out. For my XJ8 LS swap bought a 2002 XJ8 with a bad tranny and clean title and a front crunched but drivable 2001 XJR with a salvage title. Bought the XJR for the asteroid wheels and a near perfect interior that went into the XJ8. Sold engines and many other parts for about $2000 more than I paid for both cars.
Thanks to all for the advice. Those items are thick steel. Would take a lot of rust to rise to a level of structural integrity. I have a lift so treating and/or replaceing doable. Looked and those parts are on eBay for not much. Read stories of 308s going into a shop and they won't put it up on the lift because lift points could collapse. Below pictures are what I feared. If bid, amount will be not more than I could get from a part out. For my XJ8 LS swap bought a 2002 XJ8 with a bad tranny and clean title and a front crunched but drivable 2001 XJR with a salvage title. Bought the XJR for the asteroid wheels and a near perfect interior that went into the XJ8. Sold engines and many other parts for about $2000 more than I paid for both cars.
Interesting thread.
Are the steel sub frame components relatively easy and accessible to remove?
Does the XK need to be on a lift, to unbolt the parts?
No, but makes it easier. I’ve taken off the rear end of my parts car. Don’t lift very high and use table lift or just floor jack to lower rear end. Can be done in an hour.
Never done front. I guess use engine joist or engine support bar.
No, but makes it easier. I’ve taken off the rear end of my parts car. Don’t lift very high and use table lift or just floor jack to lower rear end. Can be done in an hour.
Never done front. I guess use engine joist or engine support bar.
When you say, “lower rear end”, are you referring to the rear of the sub frame, or ?
Ended up not buying. I set my bid limit at $4000. Wasn't going to go higher because too far away to inspect. Went for $5100. With broker and CoPart fees would have been $6583. It was a clean title 2010 with 98k miles. Paint and interior looked great and no check engine light. If turn out as good as looks someone got a good deal.
FWIW, Ive been using POR15 in spray form on my boat engines (cast iron) with great sucess. Comes out like they are powder coated. I wouldnt hesitate to use it on the steel subframe parts on the XK. Just dont get it on your skin.....never comes off.
XK rust?
