Parasitc drain: the engine-off, ignition recently off draw is about 9.5 Amps, which will drop over 3 minutes to around 50 milliamps with a double lock of the key.

If it does anything else larger or longer, you have a draw.

A regular DVM can be used to test this. Don't try to start the car or you will blow the fuse in your DVM.

You're in Canada, where winter takes its toll on car batteries. A CTEK can't cure damage caused by frigid temperatures. But keeping your car in a heated garage can save your battery's life.

https://autobarn.ca/cold-weather-res...car-batteries/

Gotta be careful using a DVM, if the power leaves the car and connects again, all the modules wake up.
Gotta be sneaky; while battery is still connected, hook the DVM lead to one side of the battery clamp and other side to battery post, THEN disconnect the battery. Gotta keep the modules asleep!
OR, get a good quality Amp Clamp and meter. Easier, but not quite as accurate.

CJ, I'm sure that'll work, but I had a simpler procedure.

Close front doors. Open trunk, remove neg lead, and trip the trunk latch with a screwdriver until it's in the "locked closed" position.

Place DVM inline with amp connection between neg lead and neg post. DVM will mark about 9.5 amps as initial draw because car "wakes up" as battery is attached. Coincidentally, since the draw is less than 10A, the fuse in the DVM doesn't blow.

Press remote "close" button twice. Car will begin sleep process. After about a minute, it drops to 3 amps, then after a couple more it should be down to 50-60 milliamps.

I have a video of this somewhere on this forum, showing how fast it drops and what steps it takes to go to sleep.

Best,

Panthera


PS: Of course, when someone puts everything back together, they should press the trunk open button to reset the latch before they try to close it.

Of course ya gotta trip all the switches, I figured that was a given. My DVM blows up at 5 Amps. I went through a lot of fuses while trying to troubleshoot my F150 using it.

Figured I was lucky to use a DVM that happened to have a fuse larger than the draw. I probably would have chased my *** in circles for weeks if I hadn't.

She will draw less if you do not engage the alarm system.

Couple points, my car is in a heated garage never see's cold weather. Checked this morning and battery was at 12.55 volts after sitting all night , the day before after 4 or 5 hours was at 10 so intermittent. I have it on the charger all day today will transfer it to C tek tonight , maybe it was a one off something with computer and after being un hooked for awhile reset itself ......... yup that's it , it fixed itself.

And for interest...
https://www.autotrader.ca/editorial/...an-avoid-them/

This is a good article, but we here know all about this - well not all of us here. Perhaps if everyone on the forum read this we could stop the repeated nonsense about Jaguar electrical systems being problematic. They share the same advantages and shortcomings found in virtually every modern car, especially the luxury marques.

Batteries older than 4 years, infrequent use of the car, short runs (and especially a combination of these two), repeatedly failing to lock the car to quickly limit the battery draw…all of these will produce gradual battery degradation and will guarantee random warning lights, improper functioning of various systems, and sometimes, especially on the X150, dying gasps with flashing lights and audible alarms.

But a good battery minder (like the CTEK which is not the same as a “trickle charger” mentioned is the article) will obviate all these problems until the battery reaches the end of its productive life…and that can be up to 7 years if a battery minder is consistently used.