After my first post "ZF6HP28 Transmission Woes", I tried to no avail to fix the stuck in neutral issue. Given that the transmission was clearly run while 3.5 liters low on fluid by the previous owner and was problematic prior to the ZIP kit install, I decided to just replace it. I found a 42K mile ZF6HP28 online that was listed as being out of an XKR. Had the correct numbers, build date, and was marked as a 5.0 S/C transmission. Over the past week I removed the old unit and replaced it with the "new" one. The process was much more straight forward than I expected. During the install I determined that the transmission was actually from a 2010/11 Jaguar XJ and not an XKR based on the mount that was attached.

Post install I changed the pan and the fluid following the proper procedure, filling at temp while running. I was able to run through all the gear selector positions with no issue. No gearbox warning light. So all is good, right? Nope.

After backing the car out of the garage to wash it and bleed the cooling system (I change the rear cooling pipe while the transmission was out), I started it up and took it down the road and it won't shift. So good news is it goes forward and backward, LOL, but it only has one forward gear gear and the gearbox warning light is back on. It will go into all the gear selector positions (P, R, N, D, S). The paddle shifters do nothing. The scanner gives me a U3000 code which I have looked at in the manual an know it refers to the TCM. I am thinking the TCM may need to be re-flashed given that it is out of an XJ. Any thoughts from the group on next steps?

Thank You

 

I wish I could offer you some help after all the work you have done. I would be pissed the seller of the donor gear box lied to you; you may have bought a bad gear box.

 

You could do the battery cables reset and see what it changes.
How many liters did you put into the second transmission? I want to know if the torque converter still had transfluid in it when you received it.

 

I performed the hard reset procedure and it did not correct or affect the gearbox fault unfortunately.

The transmission and torque converter did have fluid as received. I drained approximately 6 liters out during the pan change and got 6.3 liters in during the fill.

 

Many faults with the Jag XKs have to be resolved by going into the computers and SDD system with the XK, CDs. For sure there are transmission parameters, that should be adjusted, or reset. If this resolves the shifting, I wouldn't dispose of the other tranny. Transmissions are tough. My son was in an old Windstar with his buddies towing a trailer full of windsurfers back from Florida, until the tranny needed fluid. A nice Trooper in the hills of Virginia, drove him to the gas station for 5-6 liters of Dextron 1 or 2, and they were rolling in no time.

 

you can swap your old tcm inside the transmossion you will need to remove the valve body. I don't know if that's gonna help from what I know a transmission swap should not need to be coded I've done this and is all plug n play. There might be one thing going on here check to see if the xj donor car had a denso or bosch ecu because if the ecu is not the same as yours than that will cause similar problems

 

Old TCM wasn't talking at all which was one of the reasons for the swap. No way for me to find out what was in the donor XJ as it was listed as an XKR transmission. I've sent a message to the seller but surprise surprise, no response. I plugged in SDD yesterday and it came up with U3000-81 "control module". The recommended fix in SDD is the re-flash the module. Has anyone done this?

 

I've not reflashed the TCM, but I have on several modules AND the ECM. It all worked perfectly well, other than the TPMS module came back Faulty before and after the attempted flash. Can't reflash a broken thing.
Just make absolute sure that you do have a suitable power supply hooked to the battery (big battery charger of 40 amps or so) or suitable sub.

 

Hi Fuzzy,

I have not had to re-flash a 28 but I have updated the firmware in quite a few 6HP26 Mechatronics in X350 sedans, and so far I have not had a procedure fail. It's critical to follow the directions in SDD to connect a stable high-current power supply to the vehicle battery (not a charger whose output voltage can vary), and connect your laptop to its power supply - do not rely on its battery to maintain its charge for the duration of the procedure.

The first few updates I did were with a Mongoose clone cable, and the procedures took 45 - 50 nerve-wracking minutes. I later obtained a genuine Drew Technologies Mongoose, and with it the Mechatronic update only takes 15 - 20 minutes. A genuine Ford VCM should perform similarly.

My guess is that you now have an error or mismatch in the vehicle configuration file. SDD should walk you through the procedure to correct it.

Cheers,

Don

 

Evidently you and I have different expectations of "battery charger". I don't buy Harbor Freight crap, and my stuff doesn't have varying voltage. It's 'noisy', but that's what the car battery is there for, to filter the power into quite stable and reliable and noise-free electronic energy.
PLUS, my Schumacher can charge nearly every battery out there plus jump-start a Freightliner in winter. And cost a LOT less than a scientific laboratory-certified $1700 single-use device.
What do you think an alternator provides? Pristine virgin quadruple-filtered gold-plated fairy-dusted electrons? Not hardly.

 

Hi Cee Jay,

If your Schumacher is anything like any of the six or seven I own, you will find that it senses the state of charge and state of health of the battery to which it is connected and varies its charging strategy accordingly. The ECM in the X150 does essentially the same thing, varying alternator duty cycle as it senses system demands and battery condition.

If your Schumacher is an older manual charger, then its output voltage may be too high, its current capability too low, and its ripple and noise components too excessive for safe programming.

Here is the section from the Jaguar TSB 1-224NAS, issued 07 August 2009, requiring Jaguar dealerships to use the Midtronics PSC-550S power supply. It warns against the use of battery chargers or the vehicle alternator during programming:



In addition to several Shumachers and other brand chargers, I also own a Midtronics GR1 charger mentioned in the TSB. This powerful smart charger and engine starter cost three or four times the price of Shumacher's top-of-the-line chargers, but I don't use the GR1 for programming either, for the reasons stated in the TSB.

A Midtronics PSC-550S is certainly not the only power supply suitable for programming. There are other similar and even higher-current models from other manufacturers, and I did my first several Jaguar programming jobs using a 50-amp computer power supply with a regulated 12.6 volt output.

See the TSB attached.

Cheers,

Don

 

You're also Recommended to use Genuine Jaguar Windscreen Washing Fluid, or problems may arise.
Fourteen year old car, it certainly doesn't need NASA equipment.

 

Some variation in windscreen washing fluid performance can hardly be compared to the very real risk of bricking an expensive computer module. And as I very clearly stated, the Midtronics unit mandated by Jaguar for use by its dealers is not the only available source of high-current, stable and low-noise power for module programming. Any brand of device capable of meeting these requirements should be suitable. But Jaguar clearly contradicts the idea that a battery charger is a suitable substitute for a true power supply. And using a device rated for lower-than-specified current capability is asking for trouble.

By the way, some of the higher-end smart battery chargers now offer a true power-supply mode

I'm preparing to repair a BMW that will require a firmware update, and the Workshop Manual states that a minimum 70-amp power supply is required, so my Midtronics PSC-550S won't be adequate. On the hunt again!

Cheers,

Don

 

I've got the 55amp version exactly what you need (meets JLR specs) for less than $200.

https://powermaxconverters.com/product/pm4-series-2/

 

Don B / Cee Jay, Thank you for the insight. I have access to a suitable stable power source but I'll review the PSC-550 and Powermax specs and pivot if necessary. Are there any good tutorials out there on re-flashing with SDD in general?.

 

I don't know of a great tutorial, but you can download the IDS-SDD training manual at this link:

Jaguar Land Rover IDS SDD Training Manual

The learning curve is a bit steep, but SDD is designed to help guide the technician through the diagnosis. With the system connected to your vehicle, you can explore various options. The program has plenty of failsafes to help protect the user from making mistakes. But if you get into a function you don't fully understand, or don't know for certain if you want to proceed, you can usually back out, or worst case, just disconnect the interface cable from the vehicle to terminate the operation. Proceeding without understanding excactly what a procedure will do presents the risk of changing settings or disabling functions, or even worse, damaging one or more electronic control modules.

Cheers,

Don

 

Don B, thanks for the manual it was helpful. After some SDD gyrations, just wouldn't work right on my Windows 10 machine, so I picked up a Windows 7 laptop and it works perfectly now. Walked through the re-flash process today. Took about 20 minutes in total and the transmission now shifts as it should. It was a pretty garage ornament but I'd much rather drive it. Thanks for all the help folks!