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00 XKR Cranshaft Pulley

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Old 08-03-2017, 03:01 PM
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Default 00 XKR Crankshaft Pulley

I have an issue with my crankshaft pulley in that I cant get the infernal thing off.

I am trying to get the my timing chains in order to change the whole lot with the 3rd gen upgrade kit as I have a lose cam chain.

I have the crank bolt out after it put up an epic fight by hand and all my strength it would not give up but a bit of heat and an a blast from an impact wrench won.

Then I hired the jag tool and assembled as instructed and tightened with 24 mm socket and breaker bar it moved a few mm then stopped?

Any thoughts on what to try next.

I have thought about heating up the pulley with a heat gun and assembling the puller quick?

Should I try a blast with the impact wrench or will that surly shred the tool?

Thanks in advance
 

Last edited by Phantom; 08-03-2017 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 08-03-2017, 05:44 PM
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See 5 and 6 in attached TSB.
 
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303-10 crank damper remove.pdf (90.6 KB, 89 views)
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Old 08-03-2017, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Phantom
..... I have the crank bolt out after it put up an epic fight by hand and all my strength it would not give up but a bit of heat and an a blast from an impact wrench won. .....
I've rarely seen such a struggle described so poetically.
Graham
 
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Old 08-04-2017, 06:14 AM
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Default Unfortunaly I have tried that

Thank you for the link to the TSB but I have tried that and had no luck. I think that it has been removed in the past as the tensioner blades look like they have been replaced.

When this was done I think that the crank blot was over tightened :-( by another owner jamming the pulley.

If I cant remove it I guess my only option is to cut it off and replace it.
 
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Old 08-04-2017, 07:05 AM
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You may have tried this but .................. with a socket over the locking cone (so it won't move) can you tap the pulley back towards the engine - this will loosen the grip of the "split cone locking device" which should then be removable before pulling the pulley back and off.
 
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Old 08-04-2017, 08:23 AM
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From the Bulletin...........

"5. Hold the crankshaft by holding the torque converter with a lever, as described in the manual,
turn the bolt using a 24 mm socket and bar, to move the damper and collar 1 to 2 mm
forward on the crankshaft.

6. Remove the tool from the damper and then pull the damper forward and off the crankshaft:
if necessary, lightly strike the damper to loosen it."

You are either not pulling the damper far enough forward OR you are not hitting it hard enough to dislodge it from the cone.

bob
 
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Old 08-04-2017, 08:40 AM
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I think the trick is to pull the damper only 1-2 mm fwd, then knock the damper back towards the engine without touching the split cone.
You could use a socket or a piece of a pipe.
Some of the penetrating spray on rust removers also have a cooling effect that might help.
 
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Old 08-04-2017, 04:24 PM
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Now you have pulled it forward a few mm, remove the puller and use a blowlamp on the hub part keeping clear of the rubber part. After a few minutes you will hear a loud crack and the pulley will fall off. Been there ,done that, did consider cutting it off but generally you will find that if a hammer wont fix it, the blowlamp tends to sort it as with most things on a car
 
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Old 08-06-2017, 11:24 AM
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Wooooooo Hooooooo I have beaten it. A good soak overnight in penetrating oil. Removed the intercooler rad so I could get a good swing at it with the mallet.

Nipped up the crank bolt to ensure everting was straight then removed it. I found my largest socket 50mm wrapped around it with packaging foam till I got it to sit nice and central and 5 solid smacks and it broke off the collet.





I Then could remove the collet and pulled the pulley with ease.
 
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