while they are not leaking they have 96k on them, the valley hoses. How hard is it to take off the intake on this non supercharged car. Am I just taking off the black plastic thing on top of the motor or is there more involved?

 

Since your gaskets all have 96K on them as well, it would really be best if you removed the intake manifold, throttle body and induction elbow at once, and replaced the gaskets between each part. At a minimum, you should replace the 8 small gaskets between the manifold and intake ports.

And...while the manifold is off...new knock sensors wouldn't be a terrible idea.

And...since it will likely break if you remove the induction elbow, order a new part-load breather tube before you start the work. Just about $20, if I recall.

Here's few photos from my work in that area...












.

 

The coupe's pictures above are fairly close to our 4.2 engines, with some subtle differences. I also did a valley hose change and removed the manifold myself also. Its not that difficult, but just tedious, careful work. I didn't even disconnect the fuel rail...just pulled each injector and 'flipped' the rail up and out of the way.

I have a thread started in here when I was tracking down air leaks through the manifold bolts sleeves. Look for a thread started by me...there isn't more than a dozen or so...I don't think

 

If not, I did take a lot of pictures and have them here on my computer. I can send them to you.

 

I don't know if that is a repair I want to tackle. I have no leaks at this time from those hoses. I wonder what a dealer charges???

 

AS H2Oboy says, it's not difficult - just that there's a lot to R&R to get to the job. Took me about 10 hours in total. I guess a seasoned 'tech would do that in about half the time or less, but it's still a lot of labo(u)r. I checked Alldata but I couldn't find any 'dealer allowed time'.


+1 on checking everything under there while you're in that deep. Don't forget capscrews for the rear of the thermostat tower too.

The Coupe - your engine bay looks cleaner than our kitchen table


M

 

As the others have said it isn't difficult - just time consuming. Take your time,work methodically and label parts and fasteners as you dismantle - photographs as you work also help with the reassembly. Peace of mind when you've done it makes it worthwhile imho.

 

wait until the snow flies, then you won't rush the job. Like the others have said take your time, ziplock and tag all fasteners. Take pictures, replace all the hoses, there are several small ones on the throttle body. If you haven't already swap out the plastic thermostat housing for an aluminum one, it's easy with the intake out of the way. And as Mr Coupe says, do the knock sensors, after all this is a job you don't want to do more than once a decade. The dealer quoted me $2000 for just the tunnel hoses. I might drive by but I won't go in there.

 

Do you have to buy those prebent valley hoses, I cant just buy over the counter hose and put them in? I bet those hoses are $$$$$ from Jag?

 

why should I replace the knock sensors? How many are there? How much????

 

I am having my pulsation cup things capped so I thought since the FI rails will be off the car I may as well pull the intake and do the valley hoses but now you all say do this and do this, not the costs are going UP. ha ha ha

 

03 has no alum thermo housing, so I recently put on a new PLASTIC one so that stuff is fixed.

 

I just did the octopus lines and pulled the TB, I did put a new seal in it, if I pull it AGAIN do I need another new seal???

 

brgjag.
If you look at the photographs in post #2, the "valley" (heater) hoses are the two which run from the front of the engine to the back in the "valley" betweenthe two heads. No - a bit of off-the-shelf hose won't work, they are a particular shape. a) they are not particularly expensive, and b) if you're going in there which is a fair amount of work - why not do the job properly ? If you remove the intake, you will need 8xseals, a throttle body gasket and an intake elbow seal. Again - not particularly expensive. The octopus hose IS quite pricy, but looks like you already did that one ?

 

Yes I did the octopus lines already. What is the intake elbow seal?

 

When I did the octopus repair I took off the TB, put a new metal seal when put back together. I will need to by that AGAIN when it has like 15 miles on it?

 

You don't HAVE to buy it but it's good practice to replace any gaskets/seals that are disturbed irrespective of mileage or time. You may get away with re using it but I guarrantee that if you don't replace it and then spend ages chasing a vacuum leak you will wish you had- and besides they are not expensive. There's no shortcuts to a good job.

 

so to get to the valley hose and knock sensors (told it is good to replace them also) is I am taking off the black thing on top pf the motor (sorry but that is the intake to me) which looks simple but time consuming which will include pulling off the complete TB set up also. Getting a round of all new gaskets and throw it all back together when I get my fuel rails back from the dampener plug job.

 

guess I need to invest in a good torque wrench also and find out what the specs for all the bolts are so I don't F up there either?

 

Essential when working on an alloy engine and highly desirable on any other materials. There's more damage done by people turning tightening fasteners into a trial of strength than those who don't tighten enough. Manufacturers spec. Torque settings for good reason and you will be dealing with dissimilar materials- steel bolts into alloy and mating plastic components to metal etc. Do the job properly and you'll only need to do it once :0)