03 Xk8 how hard is intake removal?
Well InjectorRx has my fuel rail and injectors. Hope to see them back early next week.
I should get in my remaining hose from EGR to TB and with that all I need to do before I get the rails back it torque down the intake bolts.
I should get in my remaining hose from EGR to TB and with that all I need to do before I get the rails back it torque down the intake bolts.
Finally bit the bullet and went after the valley heater return hose. Knew from the condition of the supply/feed hose replaced a few months ago that it was probably on last legs. Got to it just in time, as the diameter had doubled, the wall grown paper-thin and about to "give birth". Once you have 100k miles on your car, replacing these hoses (and the surrounding other heater/throttlebody connecting hoses) should be a must. Removing the intake manifold is not difficult, just tedious, as other members have discussed. A step-by-step is included in the shop manual and is relatively thorough, except for the fuel line/fuel rail disconnect. Thanks to the other members in this thread for their insights.
Only real problems were the EGR tube screws that attach to the throttlebody ( a small one-by-two block of wood under the ratchet solved this one) and the fuel line disconnect. I could not get the plastic disconnect tools to work. The collar on the simple plastic wrap-around was too thin to fully expand/clear the locking spring, and the plastic clamshell collars did not penetrate the opening deeply enough to get to the spring. The answer was the anodized aluminum, hinged, swing-arm tool. The five-eighths size (green one) was a perfect fit, as it immediately fully expanded the spring and released the interconnect. It is available singly and in a set of four at most all parts stores and internet outlets. Maybe if I pulled hard enough, the plastic tools would have worked, but the receiver on the fuel rail looks to have minimum strength/ no margin for abuse.
Only real problems were the EGR tube screws that attach to the throttlebody ( a small one-by-two block of wood under the ratchet solved this one) and the fuel line disconnect. I could not get the plastic disconnect tools to work. The collar on the simple plastic wrap-around was too thin to fully expand/clear the locking spring, and the plastic clamshell collars did not penetrate the opening deeply enough to get to the spring. The answer was the anodized aluminum, hinged, swing-arm tool. The five-eighths size (green one) was a perfect fit, as it immediately fully expanded the spring and released the interconnect. It is available singly and in a set of four at most all parts stores and internet outlets. Maybe if I pulled hard enough, the plastic tools would have worked, but the receiver on the fuel rail looks to have minimum strength/ no margin for abuse.
The 4.2L engine is simpler as to seals: the plastic manifold and aluminum fuel injector ports are all one piece, and there is just one seal per cylinder bank. Too bad I could not remove just the plastic manifold.
If you don't break these parts then yes there is one metal gasket per side.
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