After replacing the cable/pulley on my rear window regulator (what a job). To access it, I had to manually move the convert top up and down. I turned the key on the pump counter clockwise for manual operation. After completing the rear window fix, I turned the key clockwise for automatic operation on the top pump. The top barely moves. Am I supposed to 'bleed' the lines? What can I do to get the top operating properly? Thank you...

 

Randall, you did re-tighten the valve on the pump right? If not don't worry, you'd be next in a long line of us who have forgotten!

No there should be no bleeding needed. Please do confirm valve is tight, there is motor noise, and some movement. Fluid level is ok too right?

We'll wait to hear before speculating more mate.

John

 

Hi Johnken,
I tightened the valve (clockwise), heard the motor noise, the fluid level is about half full, and very slow, little movement. I did let the repair take months, so it sat with the valve in the manual position. (Too many honey-do lists in between) I also pushed the top up and down many times.
Thank you

 

Take the top back to the closed position and lock the front latch, with the rear windows up. Then try the button after getting the fluid level correct.
Sometimes they get out of sequence and until in a completed position will struggle with where they are in cycle.

 

I put the top in the closed position and locked it with the allen wrench. Since the rear windows are in the down position, I pushed the top button in the up position, the windows did not move.
I then pushed the top button in the down position, the top unlocked and operated properly until it got about half way and then basically 'fell' down. I continued to push the down button and I noticed the passenger side hydraulic piston for the top moved forward at the bottom of the piston about 1/2" forward as it 'bottomed out' on the top travel (didn't know this could move). I'm not sure where the 'fill' lines are for the reservoir, but there are two lines about a 1/4" apart above the halfway point, if these are the 'fill' lines, the fluid is about 1/2" below the bottom line and I can see a white round object inside the reservoir on the left side of the pump that's about 1" long and probably 2/3 of that round object is above the fluid.
I then pushed the top button in the up position to close it and the top would not close, it moved a short distance slowly and stopped moving, and I could still hear the pump going.

 

Fill the pump reservoir to the top line, it must be between thee line, but it does need to be at that top line to start.
If you are loosing fluid, look behind the B pillar and check for slick fluid, that would mean your rams need rebuilding, sorry.

 

John and Wayne THANK YOU! I appreciate it. SOOOO nice to see the top go up and also the windows. whew. What a blessing when it gets fixed.
Any suggestions for the type of lube to use on the convert joints? Thanks!

 

The best is a " dry lube" otherwise oil is liable to attract/ collect dust and dirt in the joints. I use graphite in a aerosol , there's probably better options but that's what I had floating around.

 

Hi cjd777, I didn't find fluid in the B pillar but I did find fluid filling up the left light lens in the center roof area, it must be leaking from the convert top latch. I haven't opened this up yet, have you had any experience with this? What do you think the possible repairs might be? Thanks

 

That is the green shower that ALL convertible owners will eventually get unless they replace the lines... there are a ton of threads on the subject, but search "green shower" and you will get a ton of information. You CAN go to a manual latch until you get around to replacing the latch lines and everything else! The manual latch uses the pump to open and close the roof and windows and you use the allen wrench to lock the latch... you just need to remove the latch hoses at the pump and plug those two pump fittings.

 

Thanks blindside, looks like I'm going to have to replace the latch hoses (probably them all would be a good idea) Is there a service manual for this?
Also, I found this company, has anyone tried them? Seems to be on the up and up. They claim their hoses are rated at 23,000 PSI and don't need a pressure reducer.
https://www.tophydraulics.com/jaguar...atch-pair.html

 

Either Top Hydraulics or Cabriolet Hydraulics out of Fla - both comparable and offer higher rated hoses

 

Sorry to hear of the green shower. Speaking of pressure reduction, I made a video for those who still have no leaks; a 1 hour job instead of a 2 day ordeal:

 

I got the new lines today. I must have manually lowered the top dozens of times, but today, since I've not got a leaking hose, I locked the valve in the trunk, and went to manually unlock the latch with the allen key and it was difficult to unlock, even though the latch is free, I cannot lift the top. What do I need to do to lower the top? Thanks...

 

Prior to my 'green shower', I was able to manually lift the top with relative ease. Since the hose breakage, with the manual latch unlocked, I can't lift the top at all. Seems it's binding somewhere. How can this issue be solved?
Thank you.

 

Hi Jagophile,
Great video on how to fit the pressure relief valve.
Could you please give me an idea of the cost of the bits & pieces?
Many thanks!

 

I purchased all pieces in one kit from Gus@jagrepair.com for $300 plus shipping. Not sure if he still has them in stock. His instructions are online:
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Good luck, if you get the kit let us know how it works out. I now raise and lower my top every day and it makes no loud pump noise.

 

Porterve the idea behind the new hoses is that you don't need the pressure reducing valve. The hoses that were put in the jag to begin with were underrated for the high PSI of the system. The new hoses more than handle the high loads.

 

Hi guys,
thanks for the tips.
I have ordered the kit from Gus and will let you know how I get on.
Cheers.

 

Hello Porterve: Gus maybe mentioned this: The electrical solenoids on top of the pump are fragile, take care not to bump the connectors. I removed the pressure relief valve (just two torx) so I could get a wrench on the 90 degree elbow to clear the hose connection. This job is preferred to replacing the OEM hoses as it is just two hours instead of two days. Have fun.