Hi everyone,

Perfectly running 2000 XKR convertible. Pulled into garage to unplug CD changer and exchange with an Alpine iPod cable attachment. Pulled down carpet, unplugged CD cable. After many gymnastics, unable to plug in cable blindly. Decided to wait until there was time to remove the entire audio center, pushed carpet back into place.

Now it cranks, but doesn't start. I can hear the fuel pump, has gas, etc. No history of no-start condition.

Is there something in the harness along the tunnel, on lower dash, or near gas pedal that can knock loose?

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

ADDITIONAL INFO....

Battery was disconnected during the radio/cable work

Now neither key fob operates the lock/unlock functions of the car (now they work again)

Q1: What is the official hard reset process?
Q2: Where might the inertia switch be? If it is somewhere on the right side of the footwell (Left hand drive US car), could have bumped that I suppose.

Get Trac not available warning, and now engine light icon stays on after system check.


Thanks again...

DGR

 

 

Hi DGR,

could you please say more about where you were working with plug and carpet?

this will help us better picture what might have happened.

my 1st thought is the battery connection you worked with. Are you sure you have a clean tight connection to both terminals? Low voltage would cause all of this. Granted I cant see how corrosion could be a culprit in such short time but you're only dealing with 12volt, stranger things have happened.

John

 

Agreed - most electrical gremlins in my 1999 XK8 4.0l convertible is due to a low charge in the battery. If the car is sat in the garage, or when I'm working on it, I put the battery on a tender/trickle charger.
Make sure you have a fully charged battery first.

The Intertia kill switch, in my car (LHD), is in the fuse box in the side of the driver's dashboard (LHS of the steering wheel). It's covered when you close the door. Considering where you're working, I doubt you bumped that.

 

Id bet good money on the Earth connection.

 

Thanks David, will spark it up today and see if that does the trick.

 

I pulled the carpet covering the transmission tunnel along the side where your right leg would go into the well. The carpet is divided into parts, and I pulled down only the section of carpet that starts right around the front of the stereo/climate controls.

The radio is then exposed, and I reached behind it and unplugged the CD changer cable, and attempted to plug an Alpine iPod cable in its place. Messed with it for a half hour before giving up for another day or finding a small human that can get in there easier than I can.

Laying upside down like a cosmonaut and reaching around blindly, I'm sure I could have bumped something.

The battery did go dead, but fully charged yesterday and it remains on a trickle charger per advice. Visual examination does not show any corrosion or obviously unplugged wires near the radio. Will get after it this afternoon and report back. Thanks everyone for the suggestions!

 

Yeah, I probably didn't bump it then.

I will triple check the connections again today, maybe apply some electrical grease.

 

Did you start it and switch it off soon after when pulling into the garage ? Could be bore wash. Lots of cases of that have happened on the earlier models especially. It causes loss of compression. Some say to put a small quantity of oil into a few of the spark plug holes, others say to hold the throttle to the floor and crank. It's worth a try, especially if it sounds like it's spinning over quickly.

 

Have you checked all the fuses? You probably blew one....

 

Checking the fuses is not a bad thing to do. However I would retrace your work to verify all is good. Cylinder washing is a possibility and one of the signs is when it is cranking the engine seems to spin with no compression.

Gus
www.jagrepair.com

 

OK, fuses (interior end of drivers dash checked out good)
Batt terms clean and tight.
Recharging battery to make sure all this cranking didn't lower charge.

Has ASC and Trac Not Available warnings now after system check
Engine icon stays on after engine check

ASC/Trac notes pop up every blue moon, but go away or can be reset with OBD tool.

Engine sounds like it spins as usual, does not seem to have no compression, but not certain of that. For bore wash, can it be intermittent? Does it spit a code or illuminate the engine icon? Is there another method other than holding pedal to the metal?

Code reader gives a drivers door glass and mirror code (always has, but no issues with them). ECM and everything else that it will allow me to clear has been cleared. Weird it didn't reset engine icon and does not let me clear ABS and Trac codes, says error in com or car does not have that feature.

Wondering if immobilization could be issue. Does the car still crank if that is in play? Key fobs operate locks and squawk alarm.

Thanks again for all of the suggestions, greatly appreciated.

 

Put your shifter in the "N" position and try it again.

 

Thanks Gus. Same thing, cranks well, no start. Battery charge states 67% right now. Should be back to 100 in an hour or two.

 

Bore wash is what I know as flooding (excess gas in the cylinder prevents ring seal and so low compression)

There is a procedure for this that's worked twice for me: gas pedal all the way down, alternating 20 seconds crank, 20 seconds rest, repeat. Rest period is so you don't burn out the starter. Start with 100% battery too.

Gas pedal all the way down cuts fuel to injectors, then cranking dries out cylinders.

The last time it happened, it was not a cold shut off, but I had connected a code reader and the electronics sometimes don't like that. It may have caused my subsequent flooding. Good luck!



Good luck!

 

With all the cranking you probably do have bore wash now. To clear, hold pedal to the floor to shut off fuel, then give it several 10 sec, shots wile keeping pedal to the floor. Now ease up to half throttle and see if it starts.

Last resort is to pull plugs from one side, put about one tsp oil in each cylinder, lay old towel over holes and spin it to blow out excess oil, replace plugs and try to start. Expect a lot of smoke.

 

See if this information helps you.



Link to no start JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Working around the radio is close to the body processor module. Get to it and be sure the main plug is tight. A disturbed wire on this will generate all kinds of strange messages. The module handles the window regulators. Also verify that the cables to the instrument module is not disturbed, it is in the area you were working. The instrument pack has a computer in it that handles the main comm net for the system.

 

I would add to Oldmots suggestion, that you also take the opportunity to spray the electrical connections, behind the centre consoles, with Electrical contact Cleaner (NOT WD40 as that's Kerosene based).

Also, as per RJ237's suggestion, if you are taking the spark plugs out, that's a good time to see if you are getting a spark. Just put the plug safely on top somewhere and connect up the coil pack. Plug the spark plug hole with a towel to avoid a mess, and crank the engine and see if you are getting a spark.

 

Check you have voltage on the coils when ignition on. Forget bore wash. Maybe flooded but that is not the same thing. Take one plug out and see if it is wet or dry. Did you check fuses in both fuse boxes under hood?