I have owned my 2000 xkr for about 8 months and have several resolved and unresolved issues I thought I should share for two reasons. First to possibly help others and second to get help from others. It had 81,000 miles at time of purchase from Florida and now has 89,000 miles. I was assured that the timing tensioners and water pump were done but no proof yet lots of evidence. Here is my story...

1. Rough idle warm: Partially resolved. I replaced the air tube and PCV tube which were both split. $187.00 cdn with taxes. 10 minute DIY.
2. Rough idle: not resolved. Still intermittment rough idle cold and warm. Cleaned MAF and TB, ran seafoam through gas, changed fuel filter, started running shell 91. Better but not perfect.
3. Car stalled when leaning on air box: Resolved. All wires from MAF connector were brittle with 6 inches of sheathing missing. I cut out the bad section and spliced in new wire. Problem solved.
4. Vacuum leak: Resolved. One small hose kept popping off in upper center of supercharger. I put a tie wrap on it and problem solved. Checked using soapy water throughout engine bay and not problem.
5. Upper shock mounts finished: Partially resolved. I took the old ones apart and all that was left wad the metal plate that the upper front shock bolts to. I took a rubber roller (new from boat trailer) cut it in half, put the metal plate in the middle and reassembled. It cost me $4 per side. It works like a charm in the warm weather but as soon as winter came it started squeaking like you could not imagine. Thank god the radio works. This spring I will try again using liquid urothane again burying the metal plate in the middle.
6. Hydraulic Leak on latch of convert. top: Partially resolved. I had the cylinder rebuilt at a local hydraulic shop for $80 and reinstalled it. The roof goes up and down but will not latch the last inch upon closing. As such, I have to release the pressure and manually lock the roof down. I think it is a bleeding issue but I cannot seem to bleed the cylinder. Advice is appreciated. I wonder if I reinstalled it wrong and one of the sensors is not making contact???
7. Failsafe engine mode: NOT RESOLVED. I have changed the brake light switch and the connector plate in the transmission and still get the failsafe engine mode yet the car is not in failsafe. I can still drive it at 70mph without issue. I just get the script on the dash flashing "engine failsafe mode".
8. Front lower ball joints: On order. $112 for two ball joints yet to be installed. Front tires wearing on inside as a result.
9. Front control arm bushings: Resolved: $150. New upper bushings. Amazing difference on ride. Nice and tight with no more vibration. Cost included upper bushings and sway bar end links and bushings. I forget the name of teh bushings but they are purple in color and bought in the US.
10. Long tick over on cold start: NOT RESOLVED. it turns over for about 3 seconds before starting when cold which seems like an eternity. Likely the secondary fuel pump failure and have yet to try removing fuel pump relays to test.
11. Front springs sag: NOT RESOLVED. I can not believe how badly the front springs sag. The wheels hit the inner fender until I temporarily installed spring helpers in the fall. New H&R sport springs are planned for spring with new Bilstein front shocks. $350 for the springs, $200 for two shocks, free to install myself or $50 per corner at my local trusted garage.
12. Bad gas smell with window down: RESOLVED: cannister purge valve replaced in inner fender front drivers side. easy DIY. Take front wheel off, remove inner fender, change evap value, done.
13. Low oil pressure at idle when hot: RESOLVED. This is so cool. Yesterday pulled oil pan and sump pick up tube. A few small pieces of debris but not enough to cause a symptom. However, The rubber o-ring that seals the sump pick up tube to the inner oil pan was shrunken, split, and very brittle. Replacement and reseal seems to have solved the problem.
14. Transmission feels like it starts in second gear: NOT RESOLVED. Every once in a while it feels like the car starts off from stop in second gear with little torque. It shifts great, there is lots of power with kick down from 40mph, etc...but there is NO torque off the line. 110hp honda civics can take me off the line. I believe the only way to spin the tires would be to rest the front bumper against a solid wall, oil the rear tires, turn off the ASC and hope for the best.

In summary, the failsafe mode, rough idle, and convertible latch issues are final priorities. I get the feeling that 14 may just be a common thing to remind you of luxury vs. sport.

 

Great post, it has me thinking about the few things I haven't taken care of over the past three years. Hang in there, it finally does get sorted out.

 

I thought the latch cylinder was self bleeding. When I took mine apart on my 2000 to clean it, there was no issue after installing.

I need to do it now on the 2001 as the latch sometimes does not release.

 

" 6. Hydraulic Leak on latch of convert. top: Partially resolved. I had the cylinder rebuilt at a local hydraulic shop for $80 and reinstalled it. The roof goes up and down but will not latch the last inch upon closing. As such, I have to release the pressure and manually lock the roof down. I think it is a bleeding issue but I cannot seem to bleed the cylinder. Advice is appreciated. I wonder if I reinstalled it wrong and one of the sensors is not making contact??? "


Is it possible the latch hoses are reversed? There have been a few of those here.

When you lower the top, does the latch retract correctly at the end of the operation? In other words does the problem appear only when raising the top, or in both directions?

 

1. Rough idle warm: Partially resolved. I replaced the air tube and PCV tube which were both split. $187.00 cdn with taxes. 10 minute DIY.

2. Rough idle: not resolved. Still intermittment rough idle cold and warm. Cleaned MAF and TB, ran seafoam through gas, changed fuel filter, started running shell 91. Better but not perfect.

7. Failsafe engine mode: NOT RESOLVED. I have changed the brake light switch and the connector plate in the transmission and still get the failsafe engine mode yet the car is not in failsafe. I can still drive it at 70mph without issue. I just get the script on the dash flashing "engine failsafe mode".


Have you checked for OBDII fault codes? Given all the fixes you have made, you probably should check them, clear them, drive and then recheck for which ones return.

 

Thanks for the great replies. No way I crossed the hoses for the roof latch as they are two different lengths at connection and i took note when I took the cylinder out. The latch closes when I open the roof at the end of the open cycle but does not latch at the end of the close cycle. I have to relieve the pressure by opening the T valve then manually locking the roof.

NEW BONEHEAD MOVE ON MY PART. My coolant was a liitle low so I opened the reservour but it was still too hot so fluid spit out and down the back side of the motor drivers side. I waited for the car to cool and topped up the anti freeze. HOWEVER, I lost a cylinder as a result, or so I thought. I drove off and immediately felt a miss. The check engine light flashed a few times but then went out. Next morning same thing. This time when the check engine light started to flash and I ran the diagnostics...P0302, P0304, P0308, P1314, P1316.

I took the last coil out to check it and dry it to no avail. I believe I dumped a lot of anti freeze into the wiring harness that feeds the 4 drivers side coils and have caused a short. I checked the wiring at the coils and found the last coil's wires to be brittle and cracked sheathing. It seems that these jags use very substandard wires as this is now three locations within the engine bay with brittle, cracked wires where no "rubbing" is occurring.

In summary, my mother says let Mark fix it if you don't mind a few other things breaking along the way.

 

A flashing CEL light is the first-level indication of a misfire situation. If the issue is transient, it will stop flashing and not reappear. If the underlying cause persists, you will log a Pending code, then, still later, an actual code will set. Looks like your situation followed ths pattern.

High underhood heat levels (especially is the supercharged models I presume) simply bakes the wires, seals and plastic bits. This is true of many 10+ year old cars but especially evident is tighty packaged units like the XK's.

My 20 year old truck with room-to-spare underhood does not show this problem, nor does my Corvette which is typically much cooler in the engine compartment.

 

Latch closure when raising the top seems to be the first thing to get in trouble. Check the reservoir level of course, and the latch may need lubrication, but if these don't pan out then I think we've exhausted the "easy fix" items, and it's on to more complicated stuff.

Also ... after the top has "parked" above the latch, there is a delay of a few seconds while a solenoid is switched, and the pump reverses direction. Then the top is -- or should be -- pulled down and latched. Question: do you observe/hear that the system is trying to pull the top down at that point or is nothing at all happening?

 

engine light is now on and fault codes have moved from pending to what ever they move to when not pending. Codes are P0302, P0304, P0308, P1314, and P1316. I guess things have not dried out since dumping anti freeze from holding tank, however, what could get wet at the back of the engine drivers side, and how do I fix it? I see a sensor with two wires that goes into the head and I see the wire for the 4 coils tightly packed in their loom. I am assuming they are OK but what steps can I take to be sure?

Dennis, I have not taken note of pause and reverse noise when closing roof but will do so this weekend when things warm up and it stops snowing.

 

So, misfires on 2, 4 + 8 + bank 2 catalyst damage.
Bank 2 is on the left sitting in the driver seat.
You can swap coils from bank 1 to see if the codes move (coil problem) or stay (loom problem).
I'd also pull out the plugs to check the insulators aren't tracking from the antifreeze.

 

From what I've read your 2000 XKR requires new coils, catalytic converters, O2 sensors, and MAFS. This's is where I would begin. You have a Fresh
fuel filter, what about oil, and air filter? Check the codes pulled. A vaccume leak likely exists. Check the brake booster line where it inserts on the intake manifold. Check the EGR, it's vaccume lines, and the steel tube that runs from the EGR to the passenger side exhaust manifold. Check the large vaccume line running from the PCV valve on the pass. Cam cover to the vaccume port cluster near the drivers side firewall.
As you're well aware, Your Cat needs some TLC, but she's worth it.

 

Whoa guys. These codes do not necessarily indicate catalyst damage, just that the misfire rate MAY CAUSE catalyst damage if it is not attended to.

Reset the codes. Run the car for until it warms up and see which codes reappear. Under some coil failure conditions, a single failed coil can cause multiple misfire codes. If possible see which cylinder is the first to register a misfire...that is likely the one that needs attention.

 

The other Steve is right, my shorthand for the P1314 code at fault.
It actually means the misfire rate WILL cause (not HAS caused) cat damage.
It's only a question of sorting out plug/coil/harness to find the culprit(s).

 

Whitexkr, I agree with the philosophy of not throwing parts at it just because she runs like crap..... From the age, miles, and symptomology, this 2000XKR is in desperate need of fresh ignition coils, cats, and O2 sensors, as well as resolving vaccume leaks. Though she wears the oft times problematic Ford 5 speed gear box, as you're aware, the trans. Won't properly shift with ignition, exhaust, vaccume, and emission faults. Been there done that with my 03 STR.

 

With all due respect, I do not see that he needs to spend thousands on new cats.

If he needed new cats he likely would have catalyst efficiancy faults P0420 and/or P0430.

 

My 03 STR had poorly functioning cats without OBD codes. Magnaflow cats are only $80/each. Engine failsafe mode kicks in when ignition energy is interrupted, failing catalysts, and more than 25% loss of vaccume.
Just my two cents, not meaning to step on anyone's feet. Hoping OP's cat becomes healthy once again.

 

10. Long tick over on cold start: NOT RESOLVED. it turns over for about 3 seconds before starting when cold which seems like an eternity. Likely the secondary fuel pump failure and have yet to try removing fuel pump relays to test.

Check the fuel supply vacuum line and diaphragm- this part sounds like the fuel pressure is dropping with the engine stopped-

 

I had the roof latch hydraulic cylinder rebuilt because it was leaking from the seals then re-installed it myself. Here are the new symptoms.
1. roof opens and closes without issue
2. Latch unlocks as it should but does not close when roof is fully open.
3. Upon closing roof stops an inch from closure and latch does NOT pull down and close roof completely. I have to release the pressure then manually lock the roof using a large allen key.
4. Front windows lower the quarter inch or so they should when opening.
5. Rear windows do NOT move at all either up or down yet when I put separate power to them they work fine both up and down.
I "believe" I reinstalled the latch properly and the fluid is full but there is about an inch of play in the hydraulic piston of the latch cylinder which may suggest i cannot seem to bleed it.
Thoughts comments are appreciated.