British summer time has arrived so taxed the car and took off the covers and went for a drive. Started first time and running lovely.

Only thing I have noticed is that the drivers side wing mirror (photo 1) has a constant amber tint as if the auto anti glare is stuck on. It's like this when the ignition is off as well. The other wing mirror (photo 2) and the rear view mirror are fine. It's not a problem just an irritant. Is there a sensor that could have gone bad or is it the mirror glass itself? Is there an inexpensive fix?

Thanks
Steve

 

Steve,

I thought the door mirror electrochromatic function was controlled from the interior mirror but checked JTIS to be sure:

When fitted, electrochromic door mirrors automatically darken under control of the interior rear view mirror. Mirror heating elements operate on selection of backlight heating.

As your interior mirror and LH door mirror are not tintng, it looks like a fault on the RH mirror although it could be the harness to it rather than the mirror glass.

You'll be relieved to hear that replacement mirrors are available separately - the full mirror assembly is a terrifying price.

Graham

 

Thanks Graham - I suspect it's the mirror itself. Don't suppose you have the part number to hand?
There are a couple on ebay at present part number HJD3428AA

I can only imagine how much a complete assembly would set me back

Steve

 

Steve,

Because it's Jaguar there has to be a load of options listed in the Parts Catalogue.

Is your mirror flat or slightly curved and does it have the warning message "objects in the mirror can be closer than they appear" or not?

Graham

 

Hi Graham,

It's flat with no warning message. Are they easy to fit BTW?

Thanks
Steve

 

Steve,

The latest P/N is HNA3074AA which supersedes HNA3072AA. The earlier one could still be available.


(click on the image to enlarge it)

The Mirror (item 7) has a ring of plastic 'teeth' on the back which engage with corresponding 'teeth' on the Motor (item 2).


(click on the image to enlarge it)

Position the Mirror as shown above and it just pulls away to disengage from the Motor.

Graham

 

Thank you so much Graham. Sourced a HNA3074AA for £85

Steve

 

Steve,

Here's two lower cost sources:

Jaguar Partno_HNA3074AA_DOOR MIRROR GLASS XJ (X300/X308) / XK8_David Manners Group

Martin Robey

Graham

 

Bugger - just bought the other one at £85 delivered - will be here Tuesday. EDIT - got a refund so will go with your link

At the risk of sounding thick - is the second diagram you kindly posted the driver or passenger side? - I will approach the removal of the mirror with some trepidation and the fitting of th new one with even more - I can just picture the plastic lugs breaking.
Thanks again.
Steve

 

Hi Graham
Just wanted to thank you for your suggestion to go to David Manners. They sent me a brand new boxed mirror glass for £55 - other place wanted £85 for a used one.
I'll be going back to David Manners again - I am looking for the complete hazard, trac, fogs, heat seats, head lamp switch console but so far no joy. The hazard switch is sticky and despite removing and cleaning just doesn't pop out so time for a replacement.
Thanks again Graham for taking the time and trouble to respond to my post

Steve

 

Steve,

Pleased to hear you got the mirror at the lower price.

It should be clearer how the plastic 'teeth' interlock now you have had the opportunity to see the back of the new mirror.

The hazard switch isn't available separately. It's part of the console switchpack (item 1) and is expensive:



When I had the same problem with my 2001 XK8, I got a used replacement from Eurojag in Darlington which gave no further trouble for the next two years I had the car.

Graham

 

Yep - that's the one. I've come across the unit for an XK8 but sans heated seat switches going on ebay for about £60 which is pretty fare. They have come up in the past so ill just keep looking. In the meantime as a fix I have drilled a 2mm hole in the top front of the switch and put in a tiny black nylon bolt (one of my numerous hifi cartridge mounting bolts) with just the head proud of the button surface so I can use it as a "knob" to pull the button back out. It works fine and is hardly visible but clearly a pukka replacement is in order.

Steve

 

Finally got round to doing this - the old one was leaking fluid when I finally managed to get it off.
Well surprise surprise the plastic lugs on the right side of the motor unit (part 2 in the first diagram of post 6) snapped off when I removed the old mirror It was on bloody tight and after 14 years I guess the plastic gets brittle. Thank goodness for the trusty 3M automotive tape! Thankfully the motor still works although the movement seems a bit more "radial" than up/down/left/right.

My old mirror had 3 connections being electrochromatic HNA3075AA (photo) but the replacement only 2 HNA3074AA (just heated) so I have now sourced a 3-pin mirror (used as new ones are silly money), mounting plate and motor (all separate) - on reflection (no pun intended) I probably could have lived with the old mirror with it's amber tint. I'm tempted to wait until the 3M tape gives up the ghost and the new mirror falls off before fitting them!
Steve

 

OK so now I have got the "new" parts I can see why I broke the originals and TBH I think the diagram on how to remove the mirror is at best misleading and at best just plain wrong.

So for anyone else in this situation I attach a couple of photos to illustrate the correct procedure.
Photo 1 shows the rear of the mirror and mounting plate. This is the electrochromatic and heated mirror so has 3 tags. The 2 together are for the heating element the third on its own for the electrochromatic function. The mirror is fitted with the single tag outermost and the 2 tags nearest the car. The mounting bracket has to be fitted in one way only - the 2 "clips" at each side are not the same. I have marked the correct orientation with a red dot. The clip with the red dot is "sprung" the other is rigid. By inserting the clip into the mirror as shown steady inward pressure towards the car in the direction of the green arrows will compress the spring clip and allow the other end to slot into the notch on the mirror.
To remove the mirror requires steady pressure towards the car to compress the clip and then to pull the out edge of the mirror forwards to disengage the mirror from the bracket at the outer edge.

Sorry for such a wordy explanation for such a small part but it might save someone trashing their bracket and motor like wot I did.

Steve

 

Thanks for this Steve! I'm going through this now. Last week a lorry in front of me kicked up an 8'x4' sheet of plywood into the air, which I watched arc down and hit the drivers side wing/dooor/roof at 60mph! It slammed the door mirror into the side window and cracked the mirror glass. Surprisingly little damage considering the impact - only a few scratches on the door and top of the side window trim, and of course the mirror. Got the mirror for £180, and then saw the hairline crack in the motor bracket while fitting - waiting for that now - thanks to SNG Barret.

Just a word of warning for anyone trying this - the fluid inside the mirror is pure evil! When my glass smashed it sprayed the oil down my drivers door - and has properly screwed the paintwork!

 

I'm sure the information above will be correct for the model in question but a 2005 XK8 4.2S UK without the electrochromatic function is different.

The mirror is fitted with the 2 electrical tags nearest the car as above The mounting bracket is the same at both ends - The 2 "clips" at each side of the mounting bracket are the same as each other. The "Spring" action comes from the inner box having two centre lugs which applies pressure to the centre of the "clip" bending it to allow the clip at the other end to enter the plain outer box. Releasing the pressure straightens the inner clip and centralises the mirror on the mounting bracket

Replacing the mirror on a later model is opposite to the above ... By inserting the inner clip into the mirror steady outward pressure away from the car will compress the clip and allow the outer end to slot into the notch on the mirror.

To remove the mirror requires steady pressure away from the car to compress the inner clip and then to pull the outer edge of the mirror towards the rear of the car - to disengage the mirror from the bracket at the outer edge. There is a video on YT showing this.

I imagine with the passage of time the inner clip will become permanently bent and the mirror may be loose ... a way to solve this is to insert a 10mm x 8mm x 7mm piece of pencil eraser between the two lugs.



Lugs on the inner box bend the inner clip.


Same lugs on a replacement mirror.



Piece of rubber between the two lugs to take up slack.

Hope this helps

Ray