Are there more than one kind of ECM/U that can be found on MY 2003 XKR SC? I took a dive into seeing what might be possible with revival ofba 2003 XKR that got caught in a fresh water flood and did not find what I expected in that space under the panel on the RH side back by the fire wall...

Is the transmission module built into this type of unit?

This had a large single plug. Kinda single chubby rectangular ECU/M,,, as opposed to the flatter multiplug ECM/U that I see when doing searches for replacements.


It did not look good,,, like it's seen water. Inside was spotless, tho.

 

Jay,
That's correct for the 2003 on.
I think the TCM is inside the trans.

If water hasn't got inside you may be lucky, but I'd lift the PCB out and take a look at the underside.

You really are becoming addicted...

 

The 6spd ZF transmission has the electronics built into the transmission as part of the mechatronic unit.

 

Thank you both SO SO much for answers! Answers help a brotha sleep at night, lol.

I think addicted IS the right word, Michael... It is, or close... Here's the thing. There is a guy that lives near me, we've become friends. His ADDICTION is auctions and defunct European cars. He has this one, and 5 other xk's in the yard, a few Aston Martin DBs, a Ferrari, then theres more. He doesn't drive, have a driver's license, or really ok now how to work on them. This one he bought at auction, damaged in a Texas Flood, or something.


This one is just Frozen in time, 60k mls, in this yard, begging to be given another chance at life. There's really no risk in it for me. Just a STEEP learning curve, a few bucks and lots of head scratching frustration. Anyways. If stars line up,I could come out of it with a realllllly BeaUTifulll gift.

​​​​​​Maybe the newer ECU design is good news? I can find them online, but before, I'll need to figure out which to buy and the possibility of programming, and purchase of the programming equipment, IF it makes sense. Don't even know if the old one (this one) is bad yet...

Now, I'm in that funny place of,,, proceed or NOT to proceed,,, and I'm NOT close to knowing, yet. As it is now I cannot get my simple odb talking to the ECU... I turn the key and she will go thru the key cycles, all dash lights up but the final click the starter will NOT engage. I hear a little clicking or failure. Sounds like a module or relay failure on the underdash passengers side (LH drive),,, where the key turn electrically sounds to dead end. Then nothing. Starter and motor WILL turn, smoothly, if hot wired but NOT with the key. Sucks. I'm wondering if the "dead end" under the dash includes power to the fuel pump as well? If these problems and others are caused by a fried ECU/M? Anyways,,, long way to go there.

Trans module and electrical IN the trans itself is good news, I think! I am getting a "gear box fault" on pre start "systems check". "D" blinks sometimes, shifter will not move without screwdriver in the hole, and sometimes, the res blinking light. Both D and blinking light will go out.

I need a new and strong battery!

Boot, driver's and passengers door, hood open WILL display on the dash read out when open and closing, which I think is a good BODY Processing Mod sign... Other dash warnings (I can't read DTCs due to not being able to connect to ECU):
- Limiter not Available - I have NO idea what that means, yet.
- DSC Systems Fault
- Low Brake Fluid (brake fluid level is fine)
- Restricted performance
- gear box fault
And that's it I think...

I'm excited!!! I'm crazy, lol

 

That looks like it was deeply underwater. I dunno. You might be in deeper than you want.

 

That module may well be fine. Don't rush into replacing it (which will then tip you into pain around other modules / anti-theft).

 

Ha,,, that car has been sitting on dry land back there for years... Those 'marks' are water and mud splashing in the rain... I looked and looked and had a very hard time determining where the high water mark was, at all. Not a good thing.

 

That is either a requirement or a consequence of older Jaguar ownership. Not certain which

The temptation is always to hook everything up and get going, but damage to wet electronics is much accelerated while it is still powered. I recommend disconnecting the battery, and opening each of the modules for inspection/drying. You can attend to the various connectors along the way. Check all of the relays, too.

You have a key module behind the dash somewhere which is also involved in the start process.

If you're getting boot (trunk surely ) / door messages then the SLM isn't completely dead either.

 

Come rain or shine...
Was a rainy day and still, compelled, I headed back out for a little more punishment... Wondering if I should just go ahead and start a "RESCUE" thread?????
Got some joy today though. did some soldering on a burnt section on the window control PCB board, and now, I am with power windows....! Its the little things at this stage. Windows do fall the 17 or so millimeters with door handle pull. Interior lights come on when door is opened and slowly dim when door is closed. Will chime IF I leave the key in the ignition and open the door. If I key the door the alarm will churp if I key in the LOCK position (will give the ODD chirp if anything is open, as it should) and if I hold it in the unlock position windows will go down (not the rear quarters - the entire convertible roof system is disconnected.

Gas needs changing/draining I know,,, but the dash gauge reads a half a tank with gives me hope dash cluster is ok All lights work as well as dot matrix display.

I cant hear the FPump BUT (although its not as high as it should be) there is gas in the rail that is pressurized when I depress the schrader valve.

Yes, Michael. I hear you. Thing is she sat for more than a year since its been in "the yard", haha... This "yard is becoming the bane of my existence. 5 vehicles, now... Nutts! It was a super hot summer here, so Im hoping most everything has dried up...

I cannot find that key module...

I have been trying to take it slow, one thing at a time. Not getting my hopes up. Toughest part is I don't know how high the water came up, I do know it was fresh water (I don't think I would be trying this with a a salt water bath) and I do NOT know if the car was sitting/off as the water rose or if it was running. Im sure I will never know.

I have checked every connector I have come across, all relays I have found and all fuses (not one blown fuse so far). Ridiculously I cannot get to the passenger side fuse box because of the way she is positioned right now. I am thinking now I need to carefully check the brake switch. The j-gate handle is locked up. Brake lights come on but I think the brake light switch and the actuator for the servo-type solenoid for the j-gate release is a separate thing???

I AM LOST ---- My struggle right now is chasing the no crank on key turn. It will cycle thru the tumbler turn on the column,,, I get the error messages in the little display (the ones mentioned above) but everything dies when I engage the ignition. GRANTED, I have NOT yet hooked in a fully charged battery. I have been working with a fairly powerful "jumper box" as opposed to a battery. And,,, I know I know,,,,, XK's hate low power, but I have been hesitant at this stage to fully tie in a battery - not knowing which and if things will cook if I did.

I have voltage at the starter relay, on both the low and high amperage/voltage poles. I have jumpered the relay across 30/87 and the starter will try to turn. I hear a light?soft clicking under the RH dash when I turn the key (I have all cosmetic sections removed including glove box) and I just cant tell where the light clicking is coming from. It seemes to be coming from the BPM which I have hanging, maybe some items further up inside and under the dash. I just cant figure it...

I have been reading (trying) to read thru the Electrical Diagram for the MY2003 XK's and (I am not ashamed to admit) I am to dumb, inexperienced, BOTH, to make heads or tails of any of it... Honestly,,, it goes right over my head. I must say,,, the coding formulas and design is terrible.

What should I do to try to solve the no crank/starter turn issue?

Below are photos of the Body Control Processor. Looks clean to me...






​​​​

 

After poking around a little more today Jag,,,, I think you are right! I just cant figure out why the ECM/U isn't sending a ground signal to the starter relay to engage the starter. PITA

 

Oh wait.... I have a question. Something that just came to me...
Is the funky star bolt with the post in the center of the ECM connector at all responsible for creating a GOOD ground in the ECM? The bolt in the connector plug in the ECU iis missing/non-existent...

 

Good idea to start a 'rescue' thread as you seem to be beyond the point of no return, and the car is giving you lots of encouraging signs - beware she may be trying to trap you

BPM looks OK to me.

If the brake lights work then the shifter should release:- can you hear it click? Remove the plug by the gear lever and overide the lockout solenoid by poking the key in there and you should be able to move the lever out of park.

Gus has a 'no start' procedure on his site that may help:
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource