I'm getting Stability Control Failure along with ABS light - never from cold but sometimes when moving but more often when the car is stationary and restarted when hot. C1155 is stored - left front ABS sensor. I've cleaned the sensors and connections, checked resistances at the ABS plug(all look good).
Does anyone know whether the car checks continuity upon start up? I thought it would only throw an ABS sensor fault when the wheels were moving? I'm thinking I may have the ABS module solder joints thing but I know that would normally show a C1095. Battery is 18months old and shows 12.55v after standing overnight. Any ideas?
Thanks

 

Along with cleaning the wheel speed sensors, be sure to check the condition of the rubber boots on the sensor wiring harnesses. They degrade over time, crack and split, expose bare wires, and then cause problems. I cleaned them and sealed them up in March 2013 with a tube of neutral-cure RTV silicone that I purchased at Lowe's for about six bucks. No problems or spurious warning messages since. I continue to clean the wheel speed sensors and visually inspect those boots at every oil & filter change / tire rotation (6,000-mile intervals for me)....

Cracked boots may or may not be your particular issue but if you haven't checked them, at least take a good look before you start cutting or drilling into your ABS module....

 

I had the same problem. Sent the module to a repair shop and it still was there, not sure if the test procedure checked that circuit or just the abs pump circuit. I finally bought a used module and that took care of it.
You might try swapping the cable and sensor with the other side to make sure it's not a cable problem.

 

Did you get the code before the car moved? I'm going to swap cables today but am trying to figure out whether the car can throw a sensor fault without moving.

 

I think it will throw a fault with a open circuit. Try disconnecting the right side and see if you get that code also. When my XJ6 abs pump pins needed repair, the code would not appear until I moved about 100 ft., but I can't remember for certain what the XK8 did.

 

That 's a nice healthy battery.

The car does look at continuity on start-up, and can throw an ABS fault at that time. I'm suspicious of an intermittent fault to that LF sensor. Suggest a re-do of the resistance test, but exercise the steering and/or wiggle the wiring section adjacent to the sensor while doing this (the static resistance test is OK as a start, but limited in what it will catch). Analog meter is best; watch for a blip.

Good luck.

 

Replace the wheel speed link harness and go on with your life.

I replace several a year and I have never replaced a speed sensor unless it was physically damaged (bearing failure??)

An intermittent open circuit in the short link harness is a more common fault than a sensor.

bob gauff

 

Thanks guys - I removed the link cable yesterday , bridged the terminals at the engine end, checked with a continuity meter at the sensor connection and sure enough on wiggling the cable around got an intermittent reading - looks like it is the link lead so I'll order a new one and try that - I'll post the results. Looking at the Jag price for the lead that cable must be made of precious metal :0)

 

+1 on this⬆️

Had intermittent ABS fault tracked down to front left harness too.

 

Where can I find instructions on changing out the cables? Thanks

 

If you mean the front cables they are zip clipped to the wishbone - snip those, disconnect at the wheel sensor then follow the cable through a rubber grommet behind the wheel arch liner. The inside connector is on top of the wheel wells inside the engine compartment.

 

I don't think you will find them. Both sides are the same in the front, not sure about the rear. They connect to the harness on top of the fender well in the engine bay. If you disconnect, then tie a string to the plug, you should be able to pull it out of the wheel well, but it may be necessary to remove the liner. Be careful with the liner, it's very expensive.
I had some trouble feeding the right side back in under the air filter housing, but did not have to remove it.

 

Thanks batroute, you were quicker.

 

HELLO I HAD AN INTERMITTENT C1155 PROBLEM WITH THE YELLOW ABS AND TRACTION LIGHT .
AFTER WEEKS AND WEEKS TRYING TO DIAGNOSE AND CHANGED SENSERS, CABLES I FINALLY FOUND THE PROBLEM

Can you see the green/blue colour ,corrosive. I wiggled the cables about and since then my ABS light has stayed off.

 

You need to clean that area thoroughly and protect it with a blob of RTV silicone or electrical tape or both....

 

I had exactly the same intermittent problems and fixed it with a used replacement sensor cable.

Checking resistance, sensors, cleaning connectors etc did not fix the intermittent fault. I got a better code reader that confirmed C1155 so I could focus on the front left but still could find no fault with the cable or sensor. So I bought a £20 used replacement, 30mins to fit, and cleared the code and it hasn’t returned.

One interesting point to note, with the old faulty cable, the car would log the C1155 fault without throwing the ABS fault on the dashboard. Once I got the code reader to read the ABS codes it was clear that the fault wasn’t intermittent as the code would log immediately after clearing. What was intermittent was triggering the ABS light. In any case, all fixed and thanks to the advice on this thread and others.

 

Is this an ABS wheel speed sensor or your power connector from your ABS module to the pump??

 

Is this an ABS wheel speed sensor or your power connector from your ABS module to the pump??