Hello;
I finally fixed the abs in my 98 convertible. The warning message had been on a while, diagnoses was my problem. I even picked up an entire unit from a junk car. I recently had car in shop for other service and asked to check on that. Was informed that control unit was issue so, that day I replaced it. Start car. No warning, yeah! Cost 35$ I just replaced control unit. After disconnecting unit from bracket, and bracket from fender. Separate control from rest of unit. I needed to remove 4 of the brake lines for clearance. I cleaned up minor connector corrosion on donor unit and reverse process. Once you know how, it wasn't difficult.
Don

 

Hi Don,

Thanks for posting your success report! I hope the salvaged ABS module lasts you many years.

The most common problem with the modules is cracked, cold or starved solder joints on the circuit board, especially on the two large pins for the ABS electric pump motor. Usually, opening the case and re-flowing the solder joints on every suspect joint will permanently repair the module.

The most common diagnostic fault code is C1095 (Pump B+ power supply circuit: open circuit, short circuit to ground Pump ground circuit: open circuit, high resistance DSCCM failure). Generic OBDII scan tools can only read the Powertrain (P-prefix) codes. Reading the ABS/DSC codes requires a scan tool capable of reading the Chassis (C-prefix) codes.

If you're careful, you can gently bend the brake pipes and remove the module without having to disconnect the brake pipes and re-bleed the entire system. The DIY at the link below shows how to remove the module without disconnecting the brake pipes, and shows a method of cutting a hole in the case to re-flow only the pump motor connector pins:

ABS Module Removal & Repair by Gus

The DIY at the link below shows the method for cutting off the entire module cover so all the solder joints can be re-flowed & supplemented, which is the method I recommend, since many of the solder joints other than those for the pump may also be cold, starved or cracked:

ABS Module Repair by Dan Jansen

I use a Japanese dozuki saw or PVC saw to cut the case open. If the case has two through-posts with washers staked on, carefully drill it out with a 5/16" or 8mm bit. I think the module in the photos below is from an X300 but the procedure is essentially identical for the X100 and X308:


.

The two large pins at the upper center of this photo are for the electric pump. If you look closely, you can see that the solder on the left pin is cracked:




The smaller pins along the bottom of the circuit board are for the main connector. You will probably find some of these joints to be starved and requiring supplementation with new solder, so re-flow all the joints:



You may find the circuit board coated in a rubbery substance or a harder epoxy. You can gently peel the rubbery coating away for access to the solder joints. The epoxy coating can be carefully scrubbed away with a small wire brush on a Dremel tool or die grinder:




Cheers,

Don