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I have removed the 4 x 10m bolts holding the bottom bracket and I am now trying to undo the 4 very small bolts holding the control module onto the Aluminium block. The instructions show and quote a 5/32 socket, but I tried that and its too big, the bolts look like they have a "Star" or "Torx" shape,( see my picture attached )
Does anyone know what type of socket I need to remove these small bolts?
Also, looking at the pictures in Jagrepair.com I cannot see a way of sliding out the control box, especially with those large "pins" sticking out of the Aluminium box?
How much "give" is in the what look like plastic pipes which "encase" the module?
What happens if I have to remove the plastic pipes to remove the module?
Will there be a problem when I reconnect those pipes?
Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated!! regards, David
The steel brake lines can be bent as long as you maintain a large bend radius (no kinking the lines) and drop the module downward and then sideways and OUT.
Rebend the lines back into place and reinstall mounting hardware.
Motorcarman, I now have the E5 torx and I am able to undo 3 of the small bolts so far. However I am not able to bend those steel pipes by hand enough to move them!!
What will happen if I undo the nuts holding the pipes onto the Aluminium Block??
Motorcarman, I now have all 4 of the small E5 torx screws out.
I still do not see how I can bend those steel pipes enough to get the ABS module out. As you can see in the attached pictures, I can move the module out about 1/4inch only and the pipes are Very Rigid and will not bend!
Can I undo the 4 nuts holding the pipes onto the Aluminium Block or will this cause all sorts of problems?
Bob, thank you so much for your "instant reply" it was very much appreciated!
This was the hardest job I have ever done getting this module out. I took out the 3 torx bolts you suggested, then I used a "small Jimmy" to prize open and move around the steel pipes, I was so worried I would break one but the module eventually came out.
I did damage a couple of the pins inside the socket but I believe I can straighten them with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Also, to make it easier to replace I took out the bracket underneath the module see attached picture. This bracket has a "flange" sticking up at the bottom which made it really hard to press the module Down and out.
Will open up the module tomorrow and solder the power connections and hope the TRAC NOT AVAILABLE yellow light goes away. I will let you know the progress.
Once again, thank you "Motercarman" for all your help...This Jaguar Forum is AWESOME!!
This was the hardest job I have ever done getting this module out.
You might not want to repair Jaguars for a living!!!!!!!!!!!
We were paid .80 hours Jaguar warranty repair time +.30 for diagnosis and .10 Drive-in-drive-out. (1.2 hours TOTAL)
Over the past 40 years I can tell you that this is not 'up-there' on the scale of 1 to 10.
Good to hear you got it out.
bob
Last edited by motorcarman; Oct 6, 2017 at 08:25 PM.
I took the XK8 for a run around the block to make sure the yellow error light did not come back on,,,it did not!
I plugged in my Foxwell 510 reader and everything went well until I got to the TCM area and it gave me a P1799 code,,,is this code really important since no yellow error light comes up...I would like to bury my head in the sand and ignore it...Is that OK?
Clear it and drive again??????
Maybe left over from another problem long ago.
The newer cars can log a fault with a 'timestamp' but these older cars just log a fault without telling you WHEN it happened.
I have the same problem but my two terminals are in perfect shape. I'll give it a shot and solder them tomorrow.
Johns427 did this work out for you? Just about to attempt the repair on mine. Had some sensor issues that went away after cleaning all and replacing one. Last scan indicated a module fault. Going to attempt the repair
We followed Bob's "tutorial" and removed the ABS module with no problems. We did remove the brake lines from the aluminum block to allow enough movement of the brake lines so the module could slide out, so will have to bleed the brakes when all is done. Thanks, Bob.
BTW, I chose to send mine to a place in Van Nuys, CA, modulerepair ($45 on eBay) for a professional repair. It arrived there on Wednesday and I got an email it is being shipped back to me today, expected to arrive on Tuesday.
So went ahead and did the module repair. there was very little damage on the solder joints. However still getting the fault. Appears that the insulation of the main wire going into the pump has fallen apart and the wire is now exposed, which probably causes all sorts of shorting out. Have ordered a pump and module off Ebay. Hope that sorts it out.
Hi Jimmie, i have just taken out and cleaned all 4 wheel sensors but still have the same problem. If I take the ABS unit out I would prefer to have it serviced professionally. Where did you get your's done?
Thanks Ian
Hi Bob, I have just got the 3 T25 torx bolts out but not sure what you mean with tilt the module down... Also why are the bolts at the base of the bracket removed? Do I have to take them out too?
Ian,
I sent my '99 XK8 ABS module to ModuleRepairPro and have not had any problems since they rebuilt it: https://www.shop.modulerepairpro.com/XK8_c156.htm
I have no affiliation with them other than being a satisfied customer.
Good luck with yours,
Jim
ABS Module Removal 2001 XK8
