really ? All of our European allies are self described socialist countries. Last time I looked they all hold
elections. And being parliamentary governments, they have elections a lot more often than the USA does.

end of politics 101 for me. Back to car issues.

Z

PS a Webster’s dictionary would be a great help here for those who conflate a socialism government with a one-party communist government.

 

In my case I did have to remove some of the brake lines, although I didn’t want to either.

However, I’ve been working around hydraulic brake lines since 1969 when I owned the first production motorcycle to come with both front and rear disc brakes: the Rickman -Triumph 650cc Street Matisse
Those were Lockheed brakes and really effective , 60mph to zero in 99 feet !

anyway, my point was, if a person is practiced, you can break the seal and not loose a drop of fluid and not introduce air into the system. I’ll admit, it takes practice. But the vertical lines in the Jag do make it easier . Fluid seems to want to drop out of horizontal line more readily than it does when a vertical line is cracked open. Counterintuitive I know.

But bleeding air from the Jaguar system is straightforward and can be easily done when needed. I wouldn’t let that hold you back from taking off the ABS module. I moved the power steering tank to one side and all the other tricks I’ve read on this wonderful forum, but to no avail. Ended up having to take off some of the lines anyway. I’d love to see someone do it firsthand with all the lines left on and um-bent.

Z

 

I was able to get it out with only removing 2 lines. Mine were really tight to the module. I'll get the pics up soon I hope.

Only lost a few drops of brake fluid.

Ken

 

I was under the impression the two halves of the module were already closed and held by a sealant, but under really close looking, I think it was actually snapped together with one half having a beveled edge, and the other with a groove. Is this what you found?

Ken

 

ASFAI can honestly remember, the two halves of the ABS module covers snapped together without any fitment; they were just held together by sealant prior applied.

 

I'm pretty sure that ABS plastic case halves are welded with an ULTRASONIC process.

https://www.google.com/search?client...ng+ABS+plastic

 

Mine looked plastic welded, not just with a sealant.


Z

 

98 jag xk8 99,000 miles. standard engine
I have been a member since 2015, One of my posts in 2016 on the ABS problem had 3,000 hits..

Found this repair option on eBay. Sent my abs out to Module Repair Pro, 5911 Lemona Ave., Van Nuys, CA 91411,

www.modulerepairpro.com
He gives a lifetime warranty.
Cost $49 at the time to rebuild at 73,000 miles. Can be expensive to pull out of the car and shipping both ways but still far less than the money they want for a new one. now 99,000 miles = no problems with the module although the light still comes on from time to time. Have replaced the four wheel sensors and harnesses. Still looking for the problem. More as it happens.

 

Why not read the DTCs (codes) and see what the actual fault is?? (still cheaper than throwing parts at it)

 

Agree with Motocarman, the OBD2 codes led us to cause of my ABS/DSC and other MIL lights on my 2003 XK8. The 2003 was beginning of a new type of module
(Ate Mk4?) so the simple repairs on older models do not work very well on newer modules. The DTC indicated a failed module and failed steering angle sensor. Purchased a LKQ ABS assembly and new S.A.S., installed them, Had a mobile tech with proper software program the module to car. Now all is well. Appears the newer models may require the programing vs Plug & Play on older modules.