I am urgently needing to replace both front ABS rotor rings as both are giving error messages.
Despite having the correct removal tool and a very powerful Torque Wrench (lent by a friendly combine harvester mechanic) it has not been possible to remove either of the rotor rings.
The factory torque setting is I believe 310Nm and that combined with the usual rust on a 2003 model has so far defeated us completely. In fact the special tool has even been lightly damaged by the force used on the torque wrench - it goes up to 1500 Nm and is about 3 feet long!
It looks as though I will have to remove both hubs to be able to work with them on the bench.
Can anybody tell me what size of ball joint remover I will need for the top and bottom ball joints and the steering rack ball joint.
The seem to be various options on various tool shop sites ranging from jaw width 17mm to 28mm approx.
An entire hub assembly second-hand might be an option but I have had no luck anywhere sourcing one for the Brembo brake option.
I sincerely hope some of you out there have a few good suggestions. My grateful thanks in advance.

 

Just curious, but what makes you consider that the rings are the problem? Are there broken teeth or anything like that?

 

To my knowledge, this is an uncommon problem. The rear rings occasionally come loose, but I am not aware of the front rings being an issue. Sensors sometimes fail, but the most common problem is the wire harness to the sensors. Other problem is failed bearings that give too much play for the sensor to pickup a signal.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

Thanks guys for these first 2 responses. Yes, I have broken teeth now from my attempts to remove the rings. My original problem the diagnostic saying Front Left ABS sensor - Missing Tooth. I could not see a missing tooth so assumed that they were not being read properly due to the considerable amount of rust between the teeth. I tried to clean this up but there was no improvement. As I have now bought 2 new rings I am simply anxious to replace both. It's a process of error exclusion. First I swapped the sensors around (had also a new one) and the error remained constant on the iCarSoft diagnostic tool. I have also checked the wiring and the wheel bearing are all OK. So next up is to replace the ABS sensor rings. What I do now need to know is what size of of ball joint splitter I need for the upper and lower wishbone ball joints and the 3rd steering rack ball joint. There are different sizes available ranging from jaw width 17mm to 28mm approx. Anybody got a ball joint splitter which did the job on an XKR and could measure theirs for me?

 

Hi bouncer,
I use a Sealey? joint splitter which works fine for all of those. It's a cantilever type, and the jaws are 20mm across.





Member RaceDiagnostics cut the ABS rings, then split them with a chisel. I can't find the thread (I'm crap with searches), but I found this which may help:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...42/#post604711

Good luck!

 

bouncer99,
Yes, I've heard of this problem. The reluctor castlations corrode causing the 'Hall effect' sensor to output erroneous readings.
A blogger from a welding website had to cut off his Rings by first partly slitting them with a Dremel and then chiseling to crack them off. See pics and link
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/...hub-nut.65808/

 

The 2 above responses are both highly interesting. Thanks to you both.
I think what michaelh is thinking of is the link in the entry from PKWise. https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/...hub-nut.65808/
PKWise has also described my suspicions perfectly:- The reluctor castelations (or teeth) corrode causing a 'Hall effect' leading to the sensor outputing erroneous readings.
I did however spot this guy in Drumnadrochit
https://www.xk8-parts.com/2013/03/ja...hange-service/
Very interesting site. He seems to offer a very interesting and reasonably priced service. Anybody know him?
It looks like I will buy a 20mm Sealey to crack the ball joints and try the American screwdriver method shown graphically above.
Keep the suggestions and advice coming please.

 

It was indeed: the author, RaceDiagnostics, is an active member here.

Some members here swear by him, but he's a bit like the curate's egg. Poor comms, apparently.


To clarify on the splitter, it's 20mm across the inside of the jaws. It worked fine for me, and didn't damage the joint rubber boots.

 

Again thanks michaelh for the strong support.
Just one small point. I am assuming that the 20mm Sealey tool cracked all 3 ball joints including the steering rack. Correct?

 

Hi - yes.
I did the front shock uppers & lowers and cracked all three joints to get things apart.

I've just double-checked the jaw internal width and it's 21mm not 20 (confirmed on triple-check).

 

Well, thanks to the terrific support above i have now been able to remove the old rotors and have fitted the new ones.
It was not too difficult to cut slits into the old rotors with a Dremel. Important to note here is that this can all be done without dismantling the suspension. Just remove the wheel and there is adequate access. Thereafter a few sharp taps with a big hammer and a chisel and the rotor was cracked as in the pictures below. The cracked rotor can then be easily unscrewed. Fitting the new rotor and getting it tightened to 310NM is also perfectly easy with the correct tools. A torque wrench of this caliber is around 3 feet long so very little actual force is needed to tighten to 310NM. Essential too is the rotor removal tool - especially for tightening the new rotors. So, that's it, job done and a vast amount of money saved.

 

bouncer99,
Well done with this notoriously difficult task. I've been putting it off because of the infamous difficulty and I need to get together the special tools. Last year I did a full front suspension and sub-frame re-build and this was the only task I didn't do. Instead, I cleaned up my corroded ABS rotors for (hopefully) a few more years running....