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Advice on winter storage

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Old 10-07-2017, 04:54 PM
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Default Advice on winter storage

and before someone suggests not storing her I will not drive my beautiful car in several inches of brine/slush and driving snow for several months

When storing my Miata/MX5 the accepted practice was this:

Do not put it up on jacks because it buggers up the suspension
Leave windows down a bit
Unlatch the convertible top to reduce tension

I will of course change the oil and use a battery tender and the car will be stored in an unheated garage.

Any other advice suggestions or comments ?
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Old 10-07-2017, 08:38 PM
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Winter, what's that!

Sorry just couldn't resist.
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Old 10-07-2017, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Jandreu View Post
Winter, what's that!

Sorry just couldn't resist.
+1

Actually, I have the opposite problem. My 1963 MK2 is not equipped with A/C, so it becomes too uncomfortable to drive during our summers. I do sympathize with those of you who are heading into the Northern Hemisphere winter. Whatever you're driving, please drive safely.



Stu

Last edited by StuG; 10-07-2017 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 10-08-2017, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry_Tucker View Post
and before someone suggests not storing her I will not drive my beautiful car in several inches of brine/slush and driving snow for several months

When storing my Miata/MX5 the accepted practice was this:

Do not put it up on jacks because it buggers up the suspension
Leave windows down a bit
Unlatch the convertible top to reduce tension

I will of course change the oil and use a battery tender and the car will be stored in an unheated garage.

Any other advice suggestions or comments ?
Inflate the tires to max pressure indicated on sidewalls.

Full tank of gas.

Don not run the engine .
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Old 10-08-2017, 11:15 AM
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I always max inflate the tires and fill the tank with stabilised fuel.

Don't understand your "don't run the engine" comment. I have always started stored vehicle two or three times during the winter and run them up to full operating temp for maybe 15 - 20 minutes...why not the Jag ?
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Old 10-08-2017, 11:57 AM
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Running the engine contaminates the engine oil with moisture an combustion by products. Why would an engine need to be run anyway? It's a lump of metal.
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Old 10-08-2017, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Barry_Tucker View Post
I always max inflate the tires and fill the tank with stabilised fuel.

Don't understand your "don't run the engine" comment. I have always started stored vehicle two or three times during the winter and run them up to full operating temp for maybe 15 - 20 minutes...why not the Jag ?
it takes a long time to get the oil hot in these cars to boil contaminants off. you will simply be introducing another dose of fuel contamination and atmospheric moisture upon cool down.

it would be a good idea to close windows and roof tight to keep out rodents.

over one winter in an enclosed space, not much will go wrong.

make sure that you battery tender is a good one that cycles.

might want to give the leather a good coat of non-silicone conditioner
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Old 10-09-2017, 09:10 AM
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No issue with rodents in my garage My battery tender is a good one. I asked about the top because the only other convertible I ever owned was a Mazda MX5/Miata and storage practice for them was to unlatch the top to release tension in cold temps.
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Old 10-11-2017, 07:55 PM
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I've been storing mine for the last 7 years, in fact it has never seen the salty roads of England in the winter months. I agree with the fuel, tyres, battery conditioner (life support) and windows ajar, my car is a coupe, so no roof issues. Never started it, fear of condensation issues. There it sits for 4 or so months and has never caused me any issues.
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Old 10-12-2017, 06:01 AM
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All sounds good but is there not a danger of the aircon seals drying out through lack of use?
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Old 10-12-2017, 06:34 AM
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All sounds good but is there not a danger of the aircon seals drying out through lack of use?
if you are referring to the compressor seals, one or two seasons will not matter much in modern units. when a compressor leaks after storage it was probably close to the failure point anyway. replaced mine two years ago as the seals were beginning to leak after fifteen years near constant use. the OEM's are Denso and not very expensive.
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Old 10-12-2017, 06:53 AM
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+1.

AC doesn't get used too much when it's -30*C here.
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:01 AM
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Thanks for all the replies folks. Still not certain how to deal with the top, so I think I'll just leave it latched
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:38 AM
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Unless you live under water the condensation issue isn't all that problematic. I recommended firing it up once a month and drive it a bit. Keeps the juices flowing and exercises all the other components under it. There's seals and bushings and all sorts of other stuff that will stiffen and atrophy if it just sits for months on end. Just turn on and/or operate all the standard stuff. For a battery charger/tender I recommend getting a marine charger. The kind made by ProMariner are the best. The computer circuitry is smart enough to read your battery condition and it will do one of 3 things automatically. Full charge, trickle charger, and once a month it will run a full maintenance routine that makes your battery almost brand new. I've used them on boats, semi trucks, and cars, and every battery is fresh and ready to go.
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Old 10-12-2017, 10:14 AM
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Condensation not a problem in St. John's NF. There's a laugh.
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:41 PM
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Once mine is in the garage and the snow comes. It stays there until April ( if I'm lucky ) Sometimes the snow is several metres high between my garage and the driveway. Plus I would NEVER drive it once the city starts spreading road salt and spraying brine for ice control. As to condensation.......we have the worst conditions. Maritime climate with wet snow , freezing rain, then extreme cold , then warm ...rinse and repeat
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Old 10-12-2017, 02:58 PM
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i did not look at whence you hail. it might be a good idea to apply some rustproofing as there is salt in the air year round, dampness and condensation during storage. not a good combination.

if you need any guidance, i am very skilled at doing this, just ask.
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:04 PM
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Thanks WhiteHat but I'm ahead of you there I get ALL my vehicles treated with RustBlock ( similar to Rust Check ). The Jag will be treated before it gets stored.....but thanks for the advice anyway
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Old 10-13-2017, 08:45 AM
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Looks like you have it covered, I've been storing mine over winter for 5 years using the above advice without issue. Except I use Sta-Bil in a full tank of gas. I'm not sure it does anything except keep Canadian Tire in business and makes me happy. See you in April, um, usually May, I like to wait for a good hard rain before coming out to play.
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Old 10-13-2017, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry_Tucker View Post
Thanks WhiteHat but I'm ahead of you there I get ALL my vehicles treated with RustBlock ( similar to Rust Check ). The Jag will be treated before it gets stored.....but thanks for the advice anyway
thanks, i checked them out and they seem to do a very thorough job. currently i am using the CorrosionFree product which is very good, but dependent upon the dealer performing the treatment. have found some of my own access points since they do not like to drill holes.

in the front of the rear wheel well there is a small plug which gives access to the rocker area. in the rear of the front wheel well at the rocker there is a Torx screw holding the wheel well lining. if you remove this screw, you have access to the forward section of the rocker area. underneath the car there is an open hole in the outer forward floor pans providing access to that wonderful space between the inner and outer floor pans that causes so much grief. i have not inspected it with an electrician's snake yet, but it and the other plugs in the vicinity might provide good access to this space without drilling.

best of luck with the car.
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