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Ok, So the good news is I’m going from 12.2 to 14.2 V across the battery terminals with the engine running, but have the dash messages of battery not charging and a red light on the meter, even though reading 13V.
I read this in another thread to reset computer
remove the negative battery cable in trunk,touch it to the positive battery TERMINAL for 30 seconds.
am I reading this right.
with the positive terminal connected, I remove the negative cable and move it across to touch the positive terminal.
Ok, So the good news is I’m going from 12.2 to 14.2 V across the battery terminals with the engine running, but have the dash messages of battery not charging and a red light on the meter, even though reading 13V.
I read this in another thread to reset computer
remove the negative battery cable in trunk,touch it to the positive battery TERMINAL for 30 seconds.
am I reading this right.
with the positive terminal connected, I remove the negative cable and move it across to touch the positive terminal.
I would say that the correct procedure is to remove both terminal clamps from the battery posts and then hold the two clamps together for 30 seconds.
Ok, So the good news is I’m going from 12.2 to 14.2 V across the battery terminals with the engine running, but have the dash messages of battery not charging and a red light on the meter, even though reading 13V.
I read this in another thread to reset computer
remove the negative battery cable in trunk,touch it to the positive battery TERMINAL for 30 seconds.
am I reading this right.
with the positive terminal connected, I remove the negative cable and move it across to touch the positive terminal.
Welcome to the club. My alternator died so I replaced it. The replacement was bad - no voltage. I replaced it again and THAT replacement was bad. Plenty of voltage but the battery light remained lit and the "Battery Not Charging" message mocked me. I replaced it AGAIN and all is working fine. I suspect you got a bum alternator.
I would say that the correct procedure is to remove both terminal clamps from the battery posts and then hold the two clamps together for 30 seconds.
Richard
That sounds safer, but it hasn’t helped. An Road side assistance guy who was helping my neighbour said sometimes it takes the computer a while to sort itself out and as long as there is 14.2V at the battery it will be charging. I guess I’ll start driving the car and see what eventuates.
That sounds safer, but it hasn’t helped. An Road side assistance guy who was helping my neighbour said sometimes it takes the computer a while to sort itself out and as long as there is 14.2V at the battery it will be charging. I guess I’ll start driving the car and see what eventuates.
It is correct that as long as you are measuring 14.2V at the battery then it will be charging. You could check this by driving for 15 minutes and then stopping the engine and measuring the battery voltage. If it's above 13V then it is being charged although I don't understand why the charge light is not going out.
These cars do not play well with aftermarket alternators. It has often been reported here that while they usually do indeed properly charge the battery, they also leave the alternator warning icon on the dash permanently illuminated. Your best bet is to have your factory alternator refurbished with the proper Denso kit....
So my battery has been charging fine, but still have the dash message battery not charging and the red light on the gauge.
I also went to use my heated seats and neither of them work. I rarely need to use in Australia, but they had worked before I refurbished the alternator. Is this related ?
I understood I had genuine Denso parts used.
If either of the two wires in the connector are damaged, would this be why I have the warning lights. Although I had difficulty removing and damaged part of the plug, the wires were intact and it definitely connected properly with a click to the alternator.
So my battery has been charging fine, but still have the dash message battery not charging and the red light on the gauge.
I also went to use my heated seats and neither of them work. I rarely need to use in Australia, but they had worked before I refurbished the alternator. Is this related ?
I understood I had genuine Denso parts used.
If either of the two wires in the connector are damaged, would this be why I have the warning lights. Although I had difficulty removing and damaged part of the plug, the wires were intact and it definitely connected properly with a click to the alternator.
Not sure how I can go about solving
You got a bum rebuilt unit. Same thing happened to me. If you're interested, I posted a separate thread on my alternator replacement and one poster mentioned that you can jumper two of the pins together and shut off that infernal light permanently. In my case I just replaced the alternator for the third time, because who doesn't love to do the same work over and over?
If either of the two wires in the connector are damaged, would this be why I have the warning lights.
It's possible that the yellow wire isn't connecting properly (White/Blue must be OK otherwise the alternator wouldn't be charging), but more likely the wrong regulator has been fitted as Y2KJag suggests. Seems to be a recurring theme with rebuilds.
I guess you could strap the two wires together but then you wouldn't get a warning if the alternator did go south again...
Hi-I have a 1997 XK-8 coupe. Dont use just any Alternator OR the light will stay on and it will say "battery NOT charging" Even though it IS charging. There is a part in the geniune Jag units that is not in ALL of the. You can get the Proper Alternator from Welsh Jaguar in the USA. The only one that worked for me. My Alternator was FROZEN into the bracket. I ended up hammering the unit out. I don't recommend that. . The reason the light is on, is due to the improper unit. The Heated seats will ALSO be inoperative until you get the proper unit. Dont cross any wires to wire out the light. Get the proper unit. GOOD LUCK!!! Ben