Well I've started the front end rebuild that many of you were kind enough to comment on last week.

Replaced tie rods today (inner and outer). One note on that - i found you do not need the special tie rod tool to unscrew the inner. It is actually much easier to use an adjustable wrench.

Next I will replace the upper and then lower ball joints. I started pricing them out. The range is pretty big. Brands differ but the same lower ball joint costs $65 in 1 or 2 places and $19 in others.

This is new for me so I'm flying blind. In your experience is there noticeable quality differences based on price for ball joints?

I know you can only generalize, but I figured some of you who have experience may know. What are the odds I'll get a good ball joint at the lower price?

Thanks for weighing in. If there is likely to be a difference I'll buy the more expensive ones. If not I'll save money.

John

 

Well that is good to know. When I did my S-Type I had to use the tool but also wanted to provide the proper torque and used the red loctite to keep it in place. You asked about the ball joints and I would say not all are the same. I recently replaced a ball joint with a Moog ball joint. It seems they have a good reputation.

 

I found the same on the inner Tier rod. When I did the inner tie rod, I was mad when I found removing the boot was so easy, because when I rebuilt the lower wishbones, getting the rear bolt past the tie rod boot was tough... If I had known it only took a couple seconds to undue the boot, I would have just done that.

I would say the $19 ball joint is a closeout on the $65 ball joint. I paid $25 for my lowers an they were identical to the ones I removed.

About a month after I did Mine, February '16, I couldn't find $25 ball joints any where and they were all $65.

Buying the ball joint is the easy part. Getting the old one out and the new one in is fun.

 

Don't buy cheap ball joints.

 

I would agree about the dubious quality of the balljoints from British parts. I changed all of the rubber bushes and ball joints/drop links in a kit from BP ,after about 8 months all of the rubber boots were cracked. I complained and got replacements, on fitting the new droplinks, the rubber on the old ones just fell apart. So I cant vouch for the more expensive replacements, only the cheaper ones that BP sell and they are c**p

 

Thanks guys.
1) Good point from Gus - looks like you may need the ride rod tool to measure torque. Ttytt the were in with low torque, just "snug" . I was comfortable not using a torque Guage to reassemble. It's up to you.

2)) loved the video RD. I think I will just buy Moog and install them.

I appreciate the input. Thanks, John

 

Rubber can crack with age. A "bad ball joint" could be a "good" ball joint that sat on the shelf for 20 years.

 

'Rubber can crack with age. A "bad ball joint" could be a "good" ball joint that sat on the shelf for 20 years.'

trust me, the rubber was like new when I fitted them, within 8 months they had cracked right through and had gone soft.