Has any one used the Bosh sensors on there cars?
any issues? opinions?

 

A while back I needed to have my Upper Sensors replaced, and I opted for Bosch brand sensors. To my knowledge, they are well made (exact fit, not Universal) and have worked just fine. I bought a pair of Lower ones also, just to be prepared. I bought them through Amazon.com.
Good luck,
Brian

 

The reason i am asking is i am trying to diagnose some issues with my car, and i was wondering if the bosh sensor i installed could be no good. i also got my sensors from amazon

PS.

I had ordered the Bosch lowers from amazon as well. when i went to install them, i found that my downstream sensors are 4 wires and the Bosch sensors they sent me are 2 wire.

Bosch's web site shows the 2 wire unit as correct but it is not right for the xkr. its prob for the xk8

 

What issues are you having, and which codes are you getting? I still have an undiagnosed P171 and P174 issue. My spare Lower Sensors are Bosch #15633. They have 2 wires and a clipped end. I was very careful to get the right part, but I'll re-check.
Brian

 

For my car the sensors are 15626/15627 Bosch. I've installed them and they are the correct ones runs great and no problems. The Bosch site has the wrong sensors if you look under XJ instead of XK you find the correct ones.

 

How about an update please? As we have almost identical cars, I am extremely interested in your findings. I still have an unresolved P171 & P174 Codes that may or may not be be affected by the Bosch O2 Sensors that I had installed a while back.
Thanks,
Brian

 

Sorry for the late post, i was busy and in and out of town. the Jag repair hit the back burner as it is not my daily driver. Brian2000XKR, i am getting the same codes.

I found my boost tube that runs from the intake plenum "the v8 stamped y peace above the SC" to the FPR "fuel pressure regulator" was collapsed. I replaced the boost line and the car ran much better for about a day. Then the FPR went bad. Looked like a torn vacuum diaphragm in the FPR. I then replaced the FPR.

I found that my CPV "Canister purge valve" was stuck wide open. I have already replaced my valve once with the updated style. The new one is for the 01 to 05 xk8/r It has a tube with a filter on the end. It seemed to be going bad slowly and it finaly stuck wide open.

I can put my finger over the filter and all the sudden the car would smooth right out and i would get a SUPER loud whistling noise from the driver fender. I ordered a new one and its supposed to be delivered today.

I also noticed that my intake tube has the known issue of a leak at the flex part of the tube. so i need to fix that.

Also on a side note:
I noticed one of my heater hoses is collapsed. Thanks Spurlee for sending me the message on that one.

 

I just pulled a P0158 "O2 sensor high voltage band 2 second sensor". Occured after car wash in January, reset code and did not return for several months with several car washes untill car was washed yesterday, I'm resetting and waiting before I take any action.

Regarding the heater hose, check out a Ford Taurus 90degree heater hose I believe it's 1/2 and 5/8". Before I got a replacement hose from Ford I made an adapter out of copper pipe fittings and solder.

 

i am quickly loosing patience with this car.

I replaced the valve with a new one. No change. you can still put your finger over the air filter for the cpv and the engine smooths out for a second. im getting misfiring on cyl 4,6,7,8 and P174 and P171. I have looked all over the place to try and figure this one out... got any ideas any one?

 

ok so... found more stuff..

Hooked up a vacuum gage via a T fitting on the MAP sensor line. Gauge read about 10 psi...
running like crap!

Long term fuel trim was -18.0 :-(

Looked all over the car for additional vacuum leaks. It dawned on me to check and see if my EGR valve was working ok. The computer thinks it is, don't have any codes on it. but because i am trying to find a really bad leak, i figured what the hell.. checked all of the gaskets. They are all ok. all the bolts are tight.
so.. i took a sobee adrenaline rush no sugar can and made a small block off plate to replace the egr to throttle elbow gasket. This blocked off the EGR completely. Hooked up a vacuum gage via a T fitting on the MAP sensor line. Fired it up and BAM!!! runs a TON better. gauge reads 17.5 to 18 PSI at idel

Started to idel a bit funny... looked at the gage and it started to drop quickly.. dropped to 10psi
Using my scanner i watched the feed back from the MAP sensor. it was reading 2psi ??? what???

so i double checked that the line from the T to the Map was ok.. yep..

Then it started to idel normal again.. smoothed way way out... checked vacuum gauge, 17.5 to 18 PSI
and the map thinks that the car has 5 to 9 psi!

Long turn fuel trim is now -8 to -10 now. This is better, but not quite there..

At this point

So not only does it look like i have a bad EGR valve, but i also have a bad MAP sensor.

So that may ex-plane some more of my issues.

 

Thanks for the update, I've been out of town for a week. I'm going to check with my mechanic this morning, but I don't think that he has found the cause of my 171,174 codes. He too replaced the Fuel Pres. Reg. but to no avail. I'll let you know if he has found anything relevant.
Thanks,
Brian

 

Hi,
I checked in with him, and he too is still struggling with my 171,174 codes. He is playing with a new MAF Sensor, but it doesn't look like it is the entire solution. Thanks for mentioning the EGR Valve, I'll call him tomorrow to check it out. We have already replaced the MAP Sensor, Fuel Pressure regulator and Upper O2 sensors. It sure dosen't seem like an easy problem to hunt down........

Please let me know what your next finding is and I'll do the same.
Thanks,
Brian

 

Bob, What year and engine Taurus are you using as a comparison?

 

My Mechanic gave up on finding the P171, P174 code culprits. I took the Jag to another shop today. Hopefully, they will have better luck..............
Brian

 

Looking for 15626 OE connector,how can i get its housing OE P/N