Looking for urgent help! 2000 XK8 52K miles
Had the car two weeks, so still learning about its quirks and needs.
I noticed that the brake lights were stuck on, hence potential problem with the brake pedal micro-switches. I operated the pedal hard down and pulled up. Fixed the lights-on issue, but....... and this maybe pure coincidence, when I got back in to put the top up, it was first slow to react, then closed but do NOT latch. And then won't move at all, up or down. I checked the hydraulic fluid - it's the green version, maybe a little low, but as I sat in the trunk and got my wife to top operate the top, there were no sounds from the pump even trying. (Was this because the trunk was open, or has a fuse (or worse) blown. What would cause the fuse to go?
Hood had worked 10+ times fine in the last couple of weeks.
Thank you!

 

There are 3 switches in the top rail header and some switches on one of the lift rams.
All need to be in sequence or it just 'shuts down'.
Sometimes you can start from TOP LATCHED and try again. (manually close top)

Brake switch can be adjusted at the plastic ratchet mechanism.(see post 71 of this discussion)
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...q-37758/page4/

 

Thank you. What you say about the top is making sense. I have tried to close (or open) the top manually (petcock open), but it won't go more than a half turn of the wrench to open, or down to latch at all. It jams on something. I have sprayed WD40 in it. No change. I have ruled out fuse, as I got partial movement electrically when I wrenched the top partially open. But again it quit. (Quarter lights are stuck down of course, so car is now garaged and immobile until I can figure this one out!
Any other suggestions on aligning or getting to the switches you mention? I only have a 1" gap to work in.

Thanks again.

The brake lights are now being temperamental. Wiggle the brake pedal and pully forward with my toe = fixed. Use the brake pedal as normal = lights stay on. I'll try "post 71" after I resolve the top issue.

 

hey mate. first of all: only operate the roof while engine running. then you can be sure a low battery wont interrupt the sequence of opening or closing.

i remember that you can only turn the latch at about half of a turn. its only there to open it up so it hooks the roof and pulls it down to close it.

there are videos in closing the roof manually on youtube, please give that a go.
after that test the sequence by opening it again by button.

good luck 🍀

 

ROOF UPDATE. Maybe helpful to others. The top's hook was jamming on top of the window rail's claw. Solution: combination of hex key and inserting your hand between the rail and roof and pushing up. Then moving the claw over and engaging it. The hex key alone does not move the roof enough to free the roof from the arc of the claw. It needs "help" to clear from a manual push up. The latch-open warning light went off. Closed the pump's petcock and topped up the fluid (it was down by about the same as the gap between the reservoir's marker lines). Cycled the roof a few times. Operates like new. Panic of stuck roof over.
I used Pentosin EHF (compatible with CHF and costs a lot less, $16/quart), installed with a Fluid Lubricant Pump I got from Advanced Auto Parts for under $8. Hope this helps someone else!
Brass compression nut on the reservoir takes a 13mm wrench. Ring spanner is best and using two hands. One to wrench and one to guide the wrench onto the nut (as you need to "work blind").