If I ever get my '01 XK8 to reset the CAT monitor so I can pass the California smog test I was thinking about replacing some of the bulbs with LEDs. However, I watched a few videos that state that the draw is so low on say for instance the brake lights that the car's computer (THAT damn thing again) reads it as a light outage and throws up an error message. The video also says there's no room to install a resistor which would eliminate this problem. Anyone out there gone the LED route? Did you run into this issue? How did you resolve it?

Joe

 

coupe or convertible? Did a quick search of the forum and here is a link to the results: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...rchid=15850760

 

If ever there was a solution looking for a problem this is it. Stick with tungsten, don't break wasn't doesn't need to be fixed as you can be sure your replacement Chinese made LEDs will last half the time your tungsten bulbs did, assuming you do manage to fool the computer.

 

The only thing I changed on all my XKs were the license plate (tag lamps) bulbs to LED because the heat was melting the plastic housing/sockets.

I glued some of the plastic together and installed the LEDs.
No 'bulb failure' message in display.

 

Sorry forgot it's a convertible.

 

I suppose you're right dibbit. At this point the lights are one of the few electrical things that are working on this thing. Maybe I'll just continue trying to change out the O2 sensors and see if I can ever get the CAT monitors to reset so I can get it to pass smog and then get rid of it.

 

What DTCs are stored in the system?

Is the MIL on?

How many miles are showing on the instrument cluster?

 

As far as codes I sometimes get a P1799 - CAN transmission control unit/ABS control unit malfunction (but this seems to come and go). Then I'll also get a P1797 CAN transmission control unit to engine control unit malfunction, (also seems to come and go). Then the one that drives me crazy is P1260 Security Input./ Theft detected. vehicle immobilized. Theft detected - engine disabled, which obviously means nothing since the car is still able to start and be driven.

There are no codes for bad O2 sensors or anything else.

This is what I get on the live data readings:






Not sure what the MIL is.

Mileage is about 64,500 on the odometer.

Joe

 

MIL is the Engine Light - Malfunction Indicator Lamp, Check Engine Light, CIWYW.

 

thanks blade runner. No, no Check Engine light is on.

Now, of course, I have to ask you what “CIWYW” is. LOL

 

I don't think a P1260 will set the CHECK ENGINE light.
It simply means that when you tried to crank the starter, the RFID key was not recognized for what ever reason.

 

Call it what you want?

 

Next step is to determine the available voltage. Using a voltmeter, what is the voltage across the battery terminals with the ignition in the OFF position for thirty minutes or longer? there should be a minimum of 12.6 volts available for all the modules to function correctly. If there is less than 12.6 volts indicated on the voltmeter, charge the battery for five hours at 2 to 5 amps and retest. if the voltage shown on the voltmeter is still less than 12.6 volts, the battery is suspect and must be replaced.

Many random DTCs and instrument cluster warnings are the result of low available voltage.

 

The battery is brand new. I just put it in last month.

 

Still worth checking, just to rule it out. It's not impossible for a new battery to go bad.

 

I’ll give that a check later today after the twins and their cousin get picked up. It’s still up on jack stands so if I need to hook up the charger I’ll do that while I finish changing the O2 sensors.

 

Hey NB,

I didn't forget, just had a hell of a time changing out the Downstream O2 sensors. The car's been sitting for over a week up on jackstands to do the sensors. I just took it down put the parts I had to remove back on and checked the battery. I'm getting 12.6 across the terminals. So I'm thinking that's not the issue here. I'm going to fire it up and take it for a ride and then throw the OBD2 on it and see if the monitors are stilll reading INC. I've watched about 50 videos about "drive cycles" over the past 6 months. Everyone had a "magical" procedure to clear INC codes. I had to start making a list of which "drive cycles" were recommended most. From what I can see the "drive 55 mph for 15-20 minutes, then take you foot off the throttle and coast to 5-10, then repeat" seems to be the most referenced. So, I'll give that a try. Of course here in Beautiful So Cal I'll have to wait until about 3 in the morning to do that because there's no way to drive that long at 55 on the 91 or the 57 at this time of day.

Any other suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Especially since I have to get this thing smogged by today. Unless the kind people at DMV are willing to give me another extension. I'll bring a picture of my hand after surgery just for some sympathy, lol.
Joe

 

I have a 2006 Victory Edition and I tried to put LED without and with resistance and
the next day the transmission was working on limited operation with a warning signs without the resistance.

with the resistance the Cruise control was not working because it can’t recognize the brake light and gave a warning signs without

I returned to regular bulb and everything is back to normal. Don’t fool around with LED others then trunk lights and interior and door lights

 

I'm coming to the conclusion that these vehicles are electronic nightmares. I doubt I'll ever get this thing fixed to the point where I can drive it on the streets of California. For now it's just a driveway decoration and that's probably what it will remain. I did a "hard reset"' by disconnecting the battery cables and touching them together. Now it appears I'm back to square one with no one able to point to a solution to the INC reading on the monitors. I'm beginning to think I should have just driven it up to the Palisades or Altadena and let it burn in the fires.

 

@OCJoeR, some of the monitors have specific parameters, such as the fuel system monitor. The fuel level must be no less than 1/4 of a tank, and no more than 3/4 full or the monitor won't set.

Each time the battery is disconnected, the emission monitors are cleared and must reset during a drive cycle.

If there are DTCs stored in the system, even with the monitors set, the vehicle won't pass the smog test.