I bought a 2001 XKR Coupe with 64k on the clock that runs like a dream.

I've heard so many horror stories about plastic chain Tensioners, what's the general consensus, should I replace them? I've heard differing opinions from the two shops that have worked on the car prior to my buying it.

 

If you have plastic tensioners, or even think you might, there's no discussion. They must be replaced, asap.

Use the search function in this forum, and you'll find all kinds of;

1. horror stories
2. close calls
3. great advice on the procedure and parts

 

 

I just attached the address to the thread where I describe my experience with pictures when I changed the upper tensioners, the most important. If the upper ones fail the repair bill will be any where from $8,500 to $10,000 dollars. The lower ones are much more difficult which I will do in the future. Not too concerned as my car only has 44K on the clock and the lower ones normally give some audible warning. But not the upper ones. So use the tie wrap method and immediately if not sooner change the upper ones to third generation metal if they have not already been changed

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-faq-52653/

EZDriver

 

Thanks folks. I'll change them.

 

I guess it's best to do all of them, rather than just the uppers.

 

This question came up in another thread today.

For the vast majority of cars, changing the upper, secondary timing chain tensioners is enough. For your car, with 64,000 miles, it's really not necessary to do the lower tensioners and guides. It dramatically increases the expense and hassle of the job, and we're really not hearing stories about failed lower tensioners.

My recommendation is to update your upper, secondary tensioners and enjoy the car. Use that other money for something more fun.

 

Uppers it is then. That'll save me a few $

 

As soon as I purchased my 2001 XK8 with 24,000 miles on it i changed then upper ones. Hadn't read anything about an issue with the lower ones.

 

As soon as I got my car with 56k, I did both. Peace of mind for long trips.

 

Much info missing....

What are the torque values for the bearing caps? Cam covers? Sequence for tightening/ loosening ?

Are the gaskets siliconed to the cam cover on one side? both sides?

When should the spark plugs be changed?

How can you tell if the water pump has been replaced with the metal propelled version? Can it be changed at same time?

Will be starting soon...waiting for parts to arrive

Thanks

 

Most of the answers are in JTIS...have you downloaded it yet?...you will be glad you did.

 

Doc, what year and/or VIN is your car? My '99 VIN 034298 had a waterpump that was fine when I replaced it. It was the earlier pumps that failed when the vanes broke. It is an easy and inexpensive job if you're worried though. Do the thermostat at the same time, and consider the radiator hoses if yours are soft, collapsing, etc. The origional ones seem a lot thinner that the aftermarket replacements. If your car is a 4.2 then one of the other members might give better advice. (Also no need to do the tensioners)

 

I have a 1997 xk8 . The thermostat has been changed by the PO ; cannot tell if the pump has been.

The car makes no noises at all; even after sitting for a week and started in 35 degree F NE winter weather. All the hype on this forum about losses has caused the fear of engine destruction. So, I will attemp to do the tie wrap method and while in there change the plugs and all gaskets. My concern is unbolting the cam bearings and losing timing or ??? whatever else bad could happen.

 

They key is to read multiple procedures, multiple times so that you understand the mechanics of your selected method.

Both the cam lockdown and zip tie methods address cam timing ... when done properly.

If you cannot visualize how the zip tie method addresses cam timing then the method for you is the factory cam lockdown tool method.

 

I can see the zip tie method keeping the same links withe the same sprocket tooth.
Fine if it was right when you took it apart, but timing chains do jump teeth when the tensioner fails or the chains stretch or a hunk of plastic gets in the works. If it jumps just one tooth you might not notice it but 2 or 3 teeth it runs crappy, if it jumps a whole bunch you may have valve/piston collision - NOT GOOD!
Mine is running crappy on one bank and I don't know how much its off so I buy or make the tool to check it this weekend.

 

Doc-
I strongly recommend that you download JTIS (See the FAQ sticky) but here are the answers to some of your questions:

What are the torque values for the bearing caps? Cam covers? Sequence for tightening/ loosening ?
Bearing caps: 10 Nm, tighten and remove a little at time in an even fashion, no specific sequence. Be sure to follow the numbers and arrows and replace the caps in the same place and in the same orientation.

Cam covers: 11 Nm, tighten the two bolts in the center first, then evenly from the middle (top and bottom edges) working your way evenly to the front and back ends of the cover.


Are the gaskets siliconed to the cam cover on one side? both sides?
No. Just use a tiny dab of RTV at the timing cover seam.


When should the spark plugs be changed?
100K intervals, but it would not hurt to inspect them while you have the coils out.

 

First thing you're looking for on changing the spark plugs is if there is any oil sitting on top of the plugs.

If so, it means you also need spark plug gaskets (in the cam cover), which may or may not come with the cam cover gasket set.

If you've got the cam covers off, you may as well change the plugs at the same time--regardless of the mileage. Plugs are now very cheap items.

 

Thanks to all for the help. I am having a difficult time downloading the JTIS; therefore no real access to the tie procedure in detail or with information of importance relative to the entire procedure. The info in threads is for the most part in pieces and lacks entire DIY info .

Answering the above questions helps very much, but still needed to address areas for errors that can be disaster to the project. For example, one thread addresses the dip stick problem, another cuts the bolt of the dip stick, others tie it off ??? ; likewise the cooling system....drain it? tie off and put aside?/ Do these apply to all years??

A little frustrating since I discovered that 97 has a different gasket set ( no threads really addressed that); Nm conversion to ft./lbs ; where to get torque wrench that is accurate to 7/8 #...................

Believe me, that I am a car nut and love this stuff....but, need to have it all together to get a good grasp of what is needed (tools, parts, best areas to buy, etc.)

This will happen, but with time i would like to see all newbies go to one source and view what is needed, time...and make decision of going forward or not. Maybe in my next life, write a Jag repair manual for dummies!

 

I think Plums summed it up pretty well, you will not find a definitive "how to" here, what you will find is the individual experience of members and the various ways they overcame the problems they encounterd.

It's up to you to filter that information and decide how best to use it.

The zip tie method is not covered in JTIS as it is a "shade tree" procedure the approved Jaguar method is to use the lockdown tools.

Have you considered subscribing to Alldata? it contains much of the info to be found in JTIS.