Change oil in gearbox ?
Are you the original owner that put the oil on the car? in other words, has the oil ever been changed? you can sample the fluid and if it smells burnt then yeah you could change it, if it looks like muck and disgusting then you probably shoulndn't change it because it might be what's holding your tranny together.
I recommend this oil: Motul Multi ATF
Best of luck!
I recommend this oil: Motul Multi ATF
Best of luck!
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From: Douglasville Ga.
I don't subscribe to the theory of old oil holding the gearbox together. BUT, I would not do a flush and complete replacement, too much chance of breaking some old deposits loose.
What I would do is drain it, remove the pan, and replace the filter. This requires about 4.5L. I have done this four times now, and on the fourth pass I also replaced the pressure regulator valve with the updated version from ZF. By repeating the process I have replaced over 90% of the original fluid.
What I would do is drain it, remove the pan, and replace the filter. This requires about 4.5L. I have done this four times now, and on the fourth pass I also replaced the pressure regulator valve with the updated version from ZF. By repeating the process I have replaced over 90% of the original fluid.
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: League City
As i recall in another thread, Brutal recommends that you keep the old fluid just in case you have problems with the tranny acting up after the fluid change. It is probably worth doing a search on the subject to find his recommendations.
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From: Raleigh, NC
Why would you keep the old fluid? It certainly would not be wise to pump that stuff back into the transmission. Are you sure Brutal recommended this action? I can't fathom him advising us to pump well-used ATF back into these quirky ZF boxes....
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From: PHX some of the time
From this thread https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-brutal-35084/
I'm surprised you forgot Jon!
It's not a Jag / ZF box he's talking about though.
I'm surprised you forgot Jon!
It's not a Jag / ZF box he's talking about though.
I pretty much agree with these statements. At our dealer we were told specificly DO NOT do flushes of transmissions unless we want to pay for the trans. Its not that its harmfull, its that we live in a dishonest, and a take a pill to fix everything society. On the dishonest side, and Ive seen this stuff happen and I just shake my head at peoples charector or lack there of....
Joe blow comes in with a shifting or other issue with his trans, wants a tranny flush, we do it, and suddenly he's in the service managers office stating that before WE worked on the tranny it worked fine. Now it slips, or doesnt shift right,etc.....and wants a new trans. It takes an awfull lot of profit from flushes (not the full cost) to pay for this situation. Then there is the 1 pill fixes all syndrome. You have a tranny issue and are told that it may or may not do anything, sign that you understand. Then when it doesnt fix your problem, suddenly that paper doesnt meen you "REALLY" understood and want your money back.
Or lets see a tranny flush now gives me a "warranty" against trans problems down the road right!!!!!
Also you reach a time when you should NOT do a fluid change. When you let it go so long, the fluid is dirty and the trans seals worn(it still works fine) you change the fluid with clean new fluid and now the seals can no longer seal clean non dirty fluid and now you do have trans issues. I actually had this happen to me. I knew it was risky, so I saved the old fluid, drained it, changed it and bingo, I couldnt back it up, only forward, pushed it back in the stall, drained the new fluid, and put the old back in. It worked fine and sent the customer on their way(no it wasnt a Jaguar, but you get the point)
These are ALL issues delt with all the time at dealers, I dont make this crap up....
My personal feelings are...is "If were my ZF, I would change the fluid as a full flush with new pan(which is the filter) every 60k, or I would at least do a drain and fill every 30k....
Joe blow comes in with a shifting or other issue with his trans, wants a tranny flush, we do it, and suddenly he's in the service managers office stating that before WE worked on the tranny it worked fine. Now it slips, or doesnt shift right,etc.....and wants a new trans. It takes an awfull lot of profit from flushes (not the full cost) to pay for this situation. Then there is the 1 pill fixes all syndrome. You have a tranny issue and are told that it may or may not do anything, sign that you understand. Then when it doesnt fix your problem, suddenly that paper doesnt meen you "REALLY" understood and want your money back.
Or lets see a tranny flush now gives me a "warranty" against trans problems down the road right!!!!!
Also you reach a time when you should NOT do a fluid change. When you let it go so long, the fluid is dirty and the trans seals worn(it still works fine) you change the fluid with clean new fluid and now the seals can no longer seal clean non dirty fluid and now you do have trans issues. I actually had this happen to me. I knew it was risky, so I saved the old fluid, drained it, changed it and bingo, I couldnt back it up, only forward, pushed it back in the stall, drained the new fluid, and put the old back in. It worked fine and sent the customer on their way(no it wasnt a Jaguar, but you get the point)
These are ALL issues delt with all the time at dealers, I dont make this crap up....
My personal feelings are...is "If were my ZF, I would change the fluid as a full flush with new pan(which is the filter) every 60k, or I would at least do a drain and fill every 30k....
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From: Raleigh, NC
Thanks for the information refresh, Norri. My Alzheimer's must be kicking in again. I'm not eating enough bananas these days. I'll go eat 5 or 6 right now and then go for a swing through the trees in our back woods....
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Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Norway
Oil Change on ZF boxes
The XK8 1998 is originally equipped with the ZF 5HP-24 box designed as a service for life type of box. So what is the life time of the oil?
According to an official note given by ZF the oil should be changed after 10 years or 100.000mls of normal service. The oil should be ESSO (or Mobil) LT71141 and NOTHING ELSE! Please read at the end of this tread: XJ8/XK8 & XJR/XKR gearbox oil change - PistonHeads
Since you are located in Sweden, you will probably be able to buy the oil from MECA. The price from them is the half of JAG, WV or BMW.
The wise thing to do is to change the oil filter as well. Remember that you can not empty the torque converter unless you separate the gearbox. So you will only be able to change half of the oil. But if you repeat this process 3 or 4 times and running the car a few months between each oil change, you would end up with fresh oil for the next 10 years. Picture of oil, gasket and filter is seen in this link: XK8 4.0 ZF5HP24 Auto Gearbox Oil, Gasket and ATF (Oil) Service Kit | Jaguar XK8 and XKR Parts and Accessories.
The trans oil filling procedure is described in the Tech Bulletin 307-2. Read this first and get hold of an OBD2 reader.
Good Luck.
According to an official note given by ZF the oil should be changed after 10 years or 100.000mls of normal service. The oil should be ESSO (or Mobil) LT71141 and NOTHING ELSE! Please read at the end of this tread: XJ8/XK8 & XJR/XKR gearbox oil change - PistonHeads
Since you are located in Sweden, you will probably be able to buy the oil from MECA. The price from them is the half of JAG, WV or BMW.
The wise thing to do is to change the oil filter as well. Remember that you can not empty the torque converter unless you separate the gearbox. So you will only be able to change half of the oil. But if you repeat this process 3 or 4 times and running the car a few months between each oil change, you would end up with fresh oil for the next 10 years. Picture of oil, gasket and filter is seen in this link: XK8 4.0 ZF5HP24 Auto Gearbox Oil, Gasket and ATF (Oil) Service Kit | Jaguar XK8 and XKR Parts and Accessories.
The trans oil filling procedure is described in the Tech Bulletin 307-2. Read this first and get hold of an OBD2 reader.
Good Luck.
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,125
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From: Holly Lake Ranch, Texas
I don't subscribe to the theory of old oil holding the gearbox together. BUT, I would not do a flush and complete replacement, too much chance of breaking some old deposits loose.
What I would do is drain it, remove the pan, and replace the filter. This requires about 4.5L. I have done this four times now, and on the fourth pass I also replaced the pressure regulator valve with the updated version from ZF. By repeating the process I have replaced over 90% of the original fluid.
What I would do is drain it, remove the pan, and replace the filter. This requires about 4.5L. I have done this four times now, and on the fourth pass I also replaced the pressure regulator valve with the updated version from ZF. By repeating the process I have replaced over 90% of the original fluid.
I have always appreciated your input.
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 8,835
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From: Douglasville Ga.
If you go to Gus's site jagrepair.com, link below, and scroll down to "Transmission Jaguar & BMW Clutch Drum Failure" you will open a pdf that gives a lot of info.
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
With the filter off you will see the forward valve body held on by about two dozen T27 bolts. Pull the whole sensor out and let it hang. After the bolts are out the valve body can be worked back& forth up & down gently to get it off the locating pin.
On the bench use a couple of bar clamps to hold the valve cover in place while you remove the screws, the springs are stiff.
The fiber gasket is fine, just be careful you don't break it and torque it in the sequence shown for the 6HP26 in the DIY section.
When you order the valve, it's a good time to get some extra screws and fill & drain plug seals, if they sell them separate. I forgot to check.
I refilled mine from the return line at the back of the radiator, it takes over 7 qts.
This is a somewhat messy job, but not difficult.
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
With the filter off you will see the forward valve body held on by about two dozen T27 bolts. Pull the whole sensor out and let it hang. After the bolts are out the valve body can be worked back& forth up & down gently to get it off the locating pin.
On the bench use a couple of bar clamps to hold the valve cover in place while you remove the screws, the springs are stiff.
The fiber gasket is fine, just be careful you don't break it and torque it in the sequence shown for the 6HP26 in the DIY section.
When you order the valve, it's a good time to get some extra screws and fill & drain plug seals, if they sell them separate. I forgot to check.
I refilled mine from the return line at the back of the radiator, it takes over 7 qts.
This is a somewhat messy job, but not difficult.
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