Hi all, just wondering if it's possible to change the PRIMARY tensioners (lower in the engine) without the Jag tools.

I've read how to change the secondary tensioners with zip ties and lifting the camshaft a bit. If I do this for the secondary tensioners, will I need to get the tools to replace the larger, lower PRIMARY tensioners?

Thanks!

 

I've not done that job, but my gut says if you're NOT also replacing the primary CHAINS, then it should be possible...but if you ARE also replacing the chains then it would NOT be possible to do the job properly without the tools.

Is there a reason you're reolacing the primary tensioners? They're not usually known to fail.


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Hi guys,
Thought I would give my 2 pennyworth, to cut a VERY long story short I had to replace number 8 piston (it tried to escape piece by piece) anyway I removed the engine and as it was the right hand head I had to remove all the timing gear from both sides of the blocks.
The only factory tool I required was the crankshaft pully extractor (and it was bloody tight). I made up a crank locker from some aluminium bar and used a micrometer as a straight edge to time the cams apart from that it is straight forward the tensioners are self tensioning anyway but as suggested when you turn the engine over on the starter to disconnect the fuel rails to stop it starting untill you have built up oil pressure to tension the lower tensioners into position, reconnect up rails and it will start.
hope this has been of help
rrosscoe

 

How does one use a micrometer as a straight edge?

 

There was a member several months ago whose handle had something to do with bluexk8ragtop and he had an extensive thread including a rebuild without factory tools. Maybe some one will recall the thread.

 

Now I remember. It was 'My project' by bluexk8ragtop.

 

An epic indeed https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...project-77642/

 

I'm looking into replacing the primary tensioners because of a terrible sound on start up. Every once in a while, the car would make a quick metal scratching sound on start up and I thought it was the starter. Then one morning it made a really weird metal screeching sound for about 5 seconds then the engine ran fine.

So I looked into the secondary chain tensioners and one of the bolts wasn't screwed in at all!! (see recent Tensioner Terror post for a picture). I have the latest tensioners (don't know who replaced them) so I thought maybe the water pump disintegrated, so I pulled that out. It looks fine but it does have the plastic impellor.

I'm now trying to remove the top bolt on the starter so I can take it off and see if it was the reason for the strange sounds.

I can't really look down inside the engine to see the primary tensioners, so I'm considering pulling the front engine cover off to take a look. That's why I'm asking about keeping the crankshaft in place while I fight the crankshaft pulley bolt.

Any other ideas? Here's the video of the very strange start I encountered that began this ordeal:

 

I know you are focussed on the primary tensioners now, but please confirm that the secondary bolts are the correct length per my other post. The original bolts are too long and will prevent the secondary tensioners from seating and pressurizing properly and that definitely can cause a rattle or worse.

 

Must remember to proof read before submitting,
It was not a micrometer what I should have said was the straight edge of a VERNIER CALIPER sorry about the confusion
rrosscoe

 

I used 4 locking vise grips on the cams, with hose clams on the end of them tight.

I marked the crank precisely with white out, it never moved the entire project.
You don't need those tools whatsoever, this was fairly self explanatory.

 

Does the sound continue if you start the car without the serpentine belt fitted ? that could be a bad belt tensioner snapping back on its spring under tension, or the steering pump pully bolts loose and chatting as it starts to rotate.

It sounds to be external to the engine on the video, too loud and clear to be internal maybe.