I would appreciate any help/input that anyway can give me, I am trying to trouble shoot my 2000 XK8, which is running very rough. I had a shop run the check engine codes and they gave me the following list.

p0300
p0304
p0305
p1313
p0327
p0332
p0354

They told me that one of the codes was showing a bad coil pack and one was showing a bad knock sensor, I purchased (1) of each of these. I attemped to swap out the coil pack, installing it in each of the (4) cylinders on the drivers side, but I can't tell that the car runs any differently when its installed in each position. Maybe the bad coil pack is on the passagers side, but I figured that those codes would tell me which pack (or packs) need to be changed out.

Also, I have a small coolent leak that I can not identify and I susspect that this could actually be the cause of my bad sensors and or coil packs. I have read some stuff on here that leads me to think I may have to remove my upper intake to get to the coolent leak.

Anyway, if someone can tell me where to find a listing for those codes, thats a start. I found one the P1313 codes is apparently " missfire rate catalyst damage fault - bank 1" but I have no idea what that means. So again any information would be apprecaited. I was hoping I could find a list of what needs to be replaced and do this myself.

Thanks,

Joel

 

If you download the JTIS from the sticky near the top of the forum page, you will have codes and repair info. The codes are also available at jagrepair.com.

 

Before you mess with the knock sensors, I'd focus on the coils and the plugs in those cylinder locations 4 & 5



If the plug has oil on it or water, that's likely the problem. Clean it (and any nearby) and use the original coil. The seals on the coil cover need replaced to prevent it further and perhaps the plug seals themselves. You should really get yourself that JTIS and the Electronic Parts Catalog from this forum and install it If the plugs are dry and nothing looks wrong, the coil(s) has failed or the connector/harness to them are damaged.

Intermittent failures are hard to find because you can't just switch the coils around and fire it up ... and see if the code shows its moved to another cylinder. If you do swap it with another on that same bank, as soon as a misfire occurs, get to auto parts store immediately to have the code read (since you don't have a code reader yourself)

 

Thanks for the info. Are the codes listed under OBDII codes, on the web page, if so I cant get that link to work? Am I looking in the wrong place?

 

Yes and No, scroll down to' engine management' for your year.

 

OK, thanks a ton.

So it looks like I need to change the coil pack on the rear cylinder passagers side (A4) or (4). I am only getting one ign coil code, its for that cylinder, but Im getting , missfire code for that cylinder (A4) and also cylinder (B1) or 5. That cylinder (5) was the first one I tried when replacing the coil packs. The car did seem to run more smoothly, but still gave me Restricted Performance, so I just figured it was because the car wasnt warmed up yet. Sometimes it seems to run more smoothly when I first start it, then after a few mins, it starts noticiably missing. The four cylinders I checked (5,6,7,and 8) all seemed to be clean, no oil or water, anything. There was evidense that some coolent had been in the comparment where the coil packs are, but it was not wet or oily and the spark plugs were clean.

It seems I may need to replace 2 coil packs.

I dont understand code P0327 "KS sense circuit out of range low BANK 1" Is this something generated from the bad coil pack?

I have a feeling that if I dont get the coolent leak fixed, this problem will just keep coming back.

 

You should get a pressure test to help locate the leak. It's often at the back of the engine, but could easily be the thermostat tower or water pump instead of a hose.

Once the coils issue is resolved the codes should be erased, then see if they reappear.

 

Jagjoel, you didn't indicate your location??? There may be a member close by that could give you some help.

Wayne

 

I agree with the advice above. Focus on your misfires before looking at your knock sensors at all. Clear the codes after switching/replacing any part out, or else you'll be getting misinformation. Can only be cleared with a code reader BTW.

 

I am in Arkansas. The problem here is finding a shop that is not a Jag Dealership that can/will work on Jags and do it for a resonable rate.

Regarding the coolent leak, its in the front center of the engine, I thought it was coming from the waterpump, I had shop look at it, they told me it was the part where the radiator hose connects to the top front of the engine (maybe this is the theromstat tower that you mentioned?), said that part is plastic, and needs to be replaced with a metal part, so $500 later, I got that part replaced, and car still leaks, so maybe its that this part was not installed properly (the shop told me that its still leaking cause it now needs the seal re-done on the part they replaced for $500- thus I dont go to that shop any more and have zero faith in that they told me. Or maybe the water pump is actually leaking, or its leaking from somewhere else in that area, I think there are some coolent lines that run under the upper intake, is that right ? It looks like its coming from that area.

My car is not a daily driver, so I work on it in my spare time, which is not a lot. I really appreciate the help and all the great input. Thanks!

 

your car may still have the plastic impeller water pump. If so, should be changed pronto. You should be able to tell if the pump is weeping or the seal on the new t-stat tower is to blame. It may be one of the lines under that intake too...a few people have had to replace them.

I also wouldn't use that shop anymore if that happened to me. You can remove the tower and water pump if you wanted to do it yourself. Just takes some time taking off hoses, unclipping the cooling fans, two bolts for the fan assembly, and that thing slides right out...giving you all sorts of access to the front of the engine. Don't forget, the bonnet has a 'service' position that also puts it almost perpendicular after you pop off the struts and lean it farther forward. There are holes in the hinges that you will see that align when you do that and you can put a bolt through it to keep the bonnet standing straight up and out of your way.

 

Thanks to you guys and the great input...this weekend I replaced the coil pack on cylinder A4. And wow, instatnly no more "performance restriction" and after driving a little bit the check engine light went away too! I didnt even have to replace the knock sensor. Should I still try to clear codes, or does it mean that I am clear if I'm getting no check engine light ? Either way I am so thrilled to be able to drive my car again and have it running normal, its fantastic.

I do still have the coolent leak, and I still cant locate the exact source. I did notice that one of the large hoses (passenger side) going into what I think is the thermostat tower balloons out after the engine warms up. With the engine cover off, I can see the evidense of where the coolent has been, its all down in middle of the top of the engine, but even squeezing on that ballooned out hose, I cant see a leak. But I dont think that hose is supposed to look that way, so its a likely suspect at this point. I think Ill take and let a shop see if they can find the leak. Any further suggesting on this situation ?

Thanks again, I can't say enough how great it is to be driving my car again.

Joel

 

The plastic thermostat housing is a likely suspect. A pressure test would be a good move. You can rent or borrow one from some of the parts store.

 

Just my 2 cents but I'd replace that hose that is ballooning out ASAP. You blow a hose at speed and your problems are just beginning!

 

Drove my car over the weekend and the "Restricted Performance" came back. While I dont feel the miss like it had before, when the R/P hits, it definatel cuts out at 3000 RMP, after a while the R/P message disapears, but the check eng light stays on. I dont feel the miss. I know I need to check codes again. Are OBD2 code readers universal, or do I need something Jaguar specific? And where do I find the connecting plug for my car?

 

Get one with live data such as elm327. Near one of your shins, I think. There will be other posts that say.