I have a 2000 XK8 with 71,000 miles on it. Have already had one coil fail. I now think I have another one. Is this the typical life span for these Ford coils?
Also, can you use the same coils as the Lincoln LS uses?

Thanks Guys and Gals.

 

I believe coil quality improved significantly as the XK8 approached the end of its production run. I remember reading years ago that Jaguar went through three or four different coil iterations in the early 2000s. By 2004 or so, the coil quality issues were finally resolved....

 

I bought these back in 2014 and got about 50K+ out of them
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-1997-20...STRK:MERFB:IID

The last set i also bought off of e-bay - got a set of 8 coils for under $100 - so far so good

 

The engine is missing on one cylinder. I just did a scan and got engine code P0332. I believe the is the second cylinder back from the front on the right side. But I can not fine the list of codes for the XK8 that I have used before. Can someone tell me where in the Forum that list is located.

 

EZDriver, Gus is the Guru on this but here is the site, you will have to scroll through to get to your car.

http://www.jagrepair.com/JaguarXK8El...OBDIIcodes.htm

 

To One and and all. Got one new coil from Rock Auto. Replaced #5n coil just like my scanner said. Fired it up and it ran like my fine watch. Thanks guys for the help. Now to find a way to tighten that left side knock sensor. I have the instructions from Motorcar Man. And it doesn't sound easy. But if he can do it so can I. I hope.

 

glad it worked out - setting this thread to resolved

 

You may have to take it out and clean the bottom with lite sandpaper or a wire brush.
Disconnect it at the thermostat tower, tie a string on the connector, go between the intake manifold and take the nut off. Been a while and I think a 13MM but don't bet on that. Keep a very long set of needle nose handy. I used a little grease on the socket to help hold the nut in there, no guarantee, so be careful, a set of the four prong pick up tools would be handy. Thread it up through the manifold and use the string to help to make sure you will be able to get it back in the right place. Now, wire brush the area around the stud and clean the bottom of the KS, it's copper so don't be ruff.
Use the pliers to get it back in place and the nut on, all should be ready to plug it back in. It took several cycles to get the light off, could have done it with the code clearer, but let it do it the cycle way.
Hope that helps.