conv hydraulic hoses
#1
#2
My cylinder hoses show some signs of deterioration (outer sheathing soft, peeling away in a couple of spots). At $400-500 for a repalcement set, I have decided to just keep a watchful eye for now.
Unlike the latch hoses, it is not a danger to spray in your face while drivng, and you can always close the top manually in the case of failure. So I see little risk in waiting until they actually fail.
Unlike the latch hoses, it is not a danger to spray in your face while drivng, and you can always close the top manually in the case of failure. So I see little risk in waiting until they actually fail.
#3
#5
If it is the hose to the lifts (on the fender side of the pump) they may leak but have not seen one fail. If it is the hose set to the roof latch (the trunk side of the pump) you would be correct in working towards replacement. If it is the hose to the roof installing a pressure system of any type will only prolong the inevitable. Replace the hose!
#6
Gents;
Working on replacing my convertible top hoses at the cylinders.
How do you get the bottom hose off of the right cylinder? There is no pipe to tube elbow...it looks like a small piece of tubing that runs right from the hose into the blind end of the cylinder.
Also trying to figure out what the black and white stiff wires are under the right quarter cap in the back. It almost looks like a thremocouple. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Bill
Working on replacing my convertible top hoses at the cylinders.
How do you get the bottom hose off of the right cylinder? There is no pipe to tube elbow...it looks like a small piece of tubing that runs right from the hose into the blind end of the cylinder.
Also trying to figure out what the black and white stiff wires are under the right quarter cap in the back. It almost looks like a thremocouple. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Bill
#7
I am not sure what it is you are looking at do you have photos?
Gents;
Working on replacing my convertible top hoses at the cylinders.
How do you get the bottom hose off of the right cylinder? There is no pipe to tube elbow...it looks like a small piece of tubing that runs right from the hose into the blind end of the cylinder.
Also trying to figure out what the black and white stiff wires are under the right quarter cap in the back. It almost looks like a thremocouple. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Bill
Working on replacing my convertible top hoses at the cylinders.
How do you get the bottom hose off of the right cylinder? There is no pipe to tube elbow...it looks like a small piece of tubing that runs right from the hose into the blind end of the cylinder.
Also trying to figure out what the black and white stiff wires are under the right quarter cap in the back. It almost looks like a thremocouple. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Bill
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#8
#9
I have seen this but not had reason to fool with it so I am not sure how to remove it. I think is has a type of “C” clip holding it is place. As for the wire I am not sure of the colors but you should have 2 leads to the ram on the right used to determine when the ram is extended or retracted. They tell the computer to control the pump operation for up, down and the latch operation. Whatever you do, do not damage them.
#10
Bill-
The wire is the antenna for the remote. It connects to the Security and Locking Module in the trunk under the fusebox.
I believe the entire fitting unscrews from the brass colored base of the cylinder. You may have to remove the cylinder to get access. I have not actually done it, so not 100% sure.
#13
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#14
Well I done gone and did it. I lost the marking to all the hoses and to where they went. The hydraulic cylinders were bad, leaking at the packing gland, got them fixed. Also got SS braid hoses for $28.00/line but lost the labeling of which port on the pump they hooked up to. Any body have a schematic or layout?
I do have a fix though to convert to #4 JIC flare on the tees using a 5/16" flare nut, tapping the one end for 7/16"-20 UNF and running a 1/4" tube union down tight into the flare nut.
Thanks for your help.
Bill
I do have a fix though to convert to #4 JIC flare on the tees using a 5/16" flare nut, tapping the one end for 7/16"-20 UNF and running a 1/4" tube union down tight into the flare nut.
Thanks for your help.
Bill
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mikiep
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
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12-20-2019 07:37 PM
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