I can't find a similar problem by searching, so I hope someone can help. I needed to do an adjustment on a quarter window seal to the door window, so I lowered the top.
When finished I raised the top but before the latch fully closed the pump stopped. I opened the pump valve, manually released the latch, but the top would not lower manually. I closed the valve and latch manually and again tried to lower the top (quarter windows go down) and could hear a relay click in the back but the pump doesn't run. Fuses are good. The latch not closed message is displayed. I hesitate to loosen the cylinder connections due to concern for a leak, but I may have to do that next so that I can do a manual cycle.
Any thoughts?

 

Sorry to hijack the thread since I don't have a solution to your problem BUT I just had the rear quarter window regulators replaced and will need to go back to the shop to make adjustments to remove the gaps between both quarter windows and the door windows. I was wondering how much of a big deal this is but I suspect the rear seat and side panels will again need to be removed to make the adjustments?

 

Also the speaker and chassis brace. If the total labor is more than 3hrs you're paying for someones extended lunch break and need to find another shop.

I forgot to mention my batt. is 12.78V, someone is always going to ask.

 

Are you sure you are opening the pump valve? With the valve open the only way to have pressure in the system is with a blockage in the lines.....somewhere.
Guess it is also possible to have something in the various levers and such to jam and prevent roof movement.
Is the fluid level in the pump reservoir full?

To adjust the rear quarter windows does require the back seat out, side panel out, rear speaker out, and brace out to access the adjustment bolts. Not difficult to do, but does take time to get everything out of the way.

 

The top frame cannot be lowered until the hinged part that 'cams-over' is released.
It is 'pulled' by the hydraulic cylinder and then the frame folds into the rear area.

You can apply pressure to the frame segment at the point above and behind the rear quarter windows to allow the frame to 'fold'.

Forcing the frame closed without releasing the locked segment will result in a bent frame.

 

Thanks Bob, now I remember doing that when I worked on a XKR several years ago.

 

I'm going to have to give up. I even tried sitting on the frame and bouncing, but no movement. I don't recall it being this difficult.

 

You can get in the rear seat and hook something over the frame where the lift cylinder attaches and PULL DOWN hard. (like the cylinder would do if it worked)

I had a 'big guy' that worked next to me at the dealer and he was able to collapse the frame segment and lower the tops by leaning on it in just the right place.
I never really weighed enough to reliably open the tops by myself.

 

Thanks, I did try pulling down, and I work out at the gym several days a week and weigh 185, but I'm no gorilla. I'll give it another go tomorrow. Too bad I can't get a come-along in there.

 

Have you considered disconnecting the rams from the frame. I had a buckled frame due a previous owner/repairer mis handling the roof during a ram failure. If you can disconnect the rams from the frame by pulling the pins out you can eliminate any effect of the hydraulic system. Even my buckled frame could be over centred easily when the rams were disconnected. You do not need undue force unless a component in the frame has broken.

 

I don't think that would help. The rams are not holding the top in position and the pressure is off. The top is mechanically locked. I just need more force and will recruit some tomorrow..

 

These frames are not indestructible. Careful with that "force"