The top on my 2000 failed to open tonight. The problem seems very much like the one Gordo is experiencing:

When I press the switch (or use the key in the door)

1. The rear windows cycle down
2. The main windows index
3. The pump begins to spin, but just for a second, then stops

If I continue to hold the switch (or key) for a few seconds more the main windows will index back up.

That's it. The "claw" doesn't move at all. Absolutely no issues prior.

Tomorrow I will check:

1. The 40A fuse (But since the pump spins briefly I'm sure that isn't the cause)
2. Each of the 2 relays
3. Opening the relief valve to equalize the system pressure
4. Manually operate the "claw" to see if I can assist the system
5. Look for a system leak somewhere

I installed the pressure relief valve last year and have not seen any evidence of a leak.

Any other ideas?

Thanks!

 

I recently experienced the same problem as yours and Gordo. I opened my header and looked it all over and could find nothing wrong. I elected to lubricate the latching mechanism and the micro switch at the latch and it worked better. I was working on an addition to my pages to show what I found but have not had the time to finish it.

 

Gus,

I looked at your pages last night.

Also very helpful was the TSB posted here that covered top diagnostics. Way down on page 8 or so was a chart which clearly outlined my problem - a completely unopening top with operative windows, eversomuch different in terms of diagnostics than a partially opening top!

As is typical, I'm stuck away from my garage when things go wrong so I'll try the simple stuff outlned in the TSB and work my way deeper if need be.

Regardless, it dosen't seem like much of a problem...

 

I did fix mine by simply cleaning and relubricating. The one switch that is at the latch is the one I felt was the problem. I cleaned the lever that activates the switch and all was good.

 

I have a simular problem where the top doesn't unlatch and the motor shuts down, my solution is to push up on the header at the start of the cycle. Works every time, I guess I could lubricate the switch. BTW I also had installed the pressure relief valve, I adjusted the valve by about 1/4 turn, didn't seem to help much, but then tried the push method, I'm happy to leave it alone unless I have more of a problem.

 

What I did was open the roof and remove the top cover of the latch control mech. I then sprayed all the moving parts of the latch mechanism with WD40. This will loosen up any jelled lubricant in that area and reassure me that everything was working the way it should. I then applied white grease (Pennzoil 705) this grease meets the high and low temperatures that the header is subjected too. I applied it in moderate with a small brush. I felt that over doing it could be a problem. I will try to post my information on my page for others.

 

I did the same as Gus - clean and lubricate and it works fine now. There were no signs of prior lubrication on the mechanism, clean and dry. I opted for WD40 instead of lithium for now.

I also hit the 2 switches with electrical cleaner. I doubt it did anything because I could not get very good access, but I made the effort anyway. Those are pretty small and fragile spring and lever setups with tiny ranges of movement! I can see where they could come out of adjustment easily.

I also lubricated the connections that move the outboard securing rods figuring that if those bind they could cause the claw to act up.

The prior owner must have had difficulty along the way because while the allen key appeared to be mostly unused, the part of the latch assembly that receives it was pretty well chewed up from ham-handed use and the headliner scuffed a bit.

I also noticed that I need about 2 ounces of Pentosin, installing the pressure reducing valve reduced the volume in the system and I didn't save any from when I flushed the system earlier...it dosen't seem ot impare the operation any though.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Check controller in trunk. under battery i think

 

I suspect this is no longer an issue 7 years later.

 

 

I fixed mine by topping up the roof hydraulic fluid which had gone down 2cm from the reservoir fill line. All roof operations are back to normal after refill.

 

+1. Quite often that will do the trick, but there is likely a slow leak in the lift cylinders or latch that eventually needs to be addressed.

 

Could you please tell me where the roof hydraulic fluid reservoir is located?

 

On top of the CD changer in the trunk, behind the carpeted cover, which can be pulled away.