Hello all,

So i thought I would affix a new clamp to the base of the coolant overflow tank because I've been smelling coolant lately and I see there is a puddle underneath the throttle body...

Anyone know where I should check first?





This is what I thought it was, but it doesnt appear a leak here would lead to the above puddle.

 

there is a 3-way connector under the throttle body (PN: NNE3944BA) that connects to the octopus hose and 2 smaller hoses - check with an inspection mirror and you may be able to see the leak. Mine has been leaking for a few weeks - just got the part in and now need to install

 

I did have the "matrix" or "spider hose" replaced back in 2010. I assume the 3way is a different part?

 

they may not have replaced this - it is a small plastic connector goes between the heater return hose, the octopus (matrix) hose and another small hose

 

Steve, can you give me a OD on the 3 way. I got a brass fitting and it looks right, just have to get a TB gasket before starting the job and if it's not right I will order gasket and required part. My is 7/16, but looks to be for a 3/8 hose, sure would be nice, if it will work.

Wayne

 

I was typing when you put that part up, my be a good idea to replace that too.

Wayne

 

So it sounds like you have to take the throttle body off to fix it. Is there anything special by way of reprogramming that you have to do in the process? or just order a new throttle body gasket and it bolts back in place...

Is this the gasket? "Throttle Body Gasket NNE 3021AC"

New Jaguar Vanden Plas XJ8 XK8 XKR Genuine Throttle Body Gasket NNE 3021AC | eBay

 

I didn't see that one, I was going with SNG.
Just looking at where it is, surely it would be better and less of a pain to take the TB off.
I'm no expert, so let's see if someone chimes in with a "been there done that".

Wayne

Just checked SNG $15.07. Mention you are a Jaguar Forum member and get 10%.

 

You definitely do not have to remove the throttle body! It is tight down there, but I have done many of these, even with my "bear paw" hands! Take off the coolant reservoir to reach in there. The easiest way to separate the coupler halves is to give it a twist which spreads the two catches enough to pull it apart. And, while the reservoir is off, look it over carefully for cracks, etc.

 

Well I found out what may have been bad the hard way. I was driving to work the other morning and suddenly my heater didnt work. Within a few minutes billowing plumes of steam were coming from the engine bay. I took it to a shop and the mechanic had to remove the intake manifold to replace the heater hose. It had blown a penny sized hole in the hose. I asked him if its possible there are any other leaks and he didn't know for sure.

I just lost at least one of this cats 9 lives. I drove the car off the freeway until it was ticking. Now that its got coolant it sounds smooth as if nothing happened.

Yes, the temperature gauges are fake. I never registered a raise in the engine's heat even though it was within minutes of failure.

 

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you. I hope the new hose and fresh coolant is indeed all you need to get back to normal. Keep us posted....

 

I hope they did both heater hoses (Valley hoses) under the intake?

 

Dam***t, the check engine light just came on and restricted performance. The mechanic replaced both hoses and flushed the coolant. He says he had to remove the throttle body to replace the intake manifold, but no charge for a tb gasket was on the receipt so he may have misunderstood the question as to whether or not he had to remove the tb.

Anyone know what this could be? I was going to get a quote for the car as a trade in today and now this happens...

 

2000CAXK8, Get someone to check the codes, we had trouble with the knock sensor after water ran down the valley. Cleaned the contacts and grounds at the switch and a couple of days later the RP and CE lights disappeared. It did throw the KS code.


Wayne

 

Thank you, where is the knock sensor located? Ever since upgrading windows my tech CD doesn't work.

 

If you look down in the middle of the intake on each side, there is a round sensor with wires running to the front of the motor, they connect to a clip and connector on each side of the thermostat housing. If you take one off, be careful about dropping the nut in the valley.


Wayne

 

Im getting codes P1111, P0171, P0174
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...4-52450/page2/

The latter two appear to be caused by vacuum leaks. I am going to check the intake ducting to see if I can find it myself but I hope its not the intake manifold that he just reseated.

 

If the Intake was taken off to replace the valley hoses which it would have, then the TB and TB elbow had to be taken off. If they reused gaskets that could be your problem. Did they torque the stuff on correctly?

 

i just checked the 4 bolts down from the top and the throttle body, and intake manifold are snug. Reseated all intake parts between air filter and TB top and no improvement. Cleaned MAF and TB butterfly too.

 

You have 2 vacuum lines under the manifold to the TB check them for proper connection and for cracks. Spray the hose connections and hoses with TB cleaner and see if you can locate the leak that way.