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Desperate: hydraulic hose latch fails after replacing, engine not starting -RESOLVED

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Old 10-21-2017, 10:44 AM
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Default Desperate: hydraulic hose latch fails after replacing, engine not starting -RESOLVED

I know that there some threads on the hydraulic topic but this seems some strange combination of issues.

I had recently a failure of the hydraulic hoses of my 2001 XK8 convertible after 2 hours of parking in a hot afternoon sun. So it was only dripping and not raining green liquid.
I replaced the latch hoses as described in the forum but after having it all in place (and some interior parts were just a nightmare) the latch doesn't close entirely after raising the top.

Does anybody now what this might cause and what to do ?

This is what I did so far:
1. Removed old hoses and replaced by new ones
2. Refilled the green hydraulic liquid but did not drain the hoses (do I have to?)
3. Manual operation works but even then it indicates "Roof top not closed" (sensor problem?)
4. When lifting the roof top it closes almost fully until the latch should crank in and pull it down but this operation doesn't work, it just stops and the pump is humming but nothing else (pump valve is closed) is happening
5. I have Gus' pressure reduction device and the rear quarter windows lifting button installed, so windows are closing
6. Most disturbingly the engine is not starting anymore (I haven't touched the engine during that time, it just stands in the garage). It cranks but doesn't start. The vizor lights are working and the fuses on the driver's interior side are checked and ok
7. When using a "start pilot" product directly sprayed into the air filter the engine starts until the product sprayed is used up (gas tank is half full)
8. Error code is reading a P0066 error which means that the throttle body should undergo some maintenance or replacing but so far the car was perfectly driving with the amber engine warning light on - no limb mode so far (and this code and the amber light is up since 6 months but car up to know running very smooth).

I imagine there is quite a lot that can go wrong when working on the hoses but what can it be that impacts the engine or some electronic modules?

And why is the latch not going down as it should?

Any help would be highly appreciated!
 

Last edited by sklimii; 01-07-2018 at 05:31 PM. Reason: marked as resolved
  #2  
Old 10-30-2017, 11:58 AM
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Roof issue

When you pulled the header down did you unplug the header? If you did my guess is that you reinstalled the plug for the roof operation into the plug for the center lights. Both of the plugs are white and can be mistakenly mixed up. Another possibility is that the latch hoses are connected incorrectly. The latch operates on a push/push operation and are directional if they are crossed the latch will not close.

If I recall the white plug on the left is for the roof operation and the one on the right is for the light.

No start
As for the no start first do not use starter fluid into the throttle body it could cause your intake manifold to crack.

Yes the fuse for the sunvisor lights will prevent the car from starting so if you checked it and the visor lights work you should be good in that area. What it sounds like is that you have no fuel. Remember you need 3 things for it to start fuel, spark and compression. The first thing I would check is the fuel pressure. In doing so you should also check the fuses for the pump.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

See if this helps.
 
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Old 10-30-2017, 01:07 PM
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I did unplug the header indeed. I will check that. I think the hoses are ok as I did mix them up the first time and saw that the latch is going the other way as it should.

Is it possible the the roof is working correctly (latch showing up and waiting for the roof to close) but just the latching sequence that pulls the roof to fully close) is not executed? Is it usual that the warning light "roof not closed" will stay up even when the roof is manually closed?

Engine
I will do some tests the next days and starting with the pump.

Thanks for the link with the info!
 
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Old 10-30-2017, 04:03 PM
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I have a suggestion for your no start. It sounds as though the vehicle has set for awhile.
Get and press the fuel pedal fully to the floor and crank for five seconds, release the key not the pedal and then turn the key and crank again for 5 seconds.
Now release the key again and this time you are going to crank to start and slowly release your foot off of the gas pedal.

Having the pedal fully on the floor shuts off the fuel and allows the combustion chambers to be cleared out as well as getting oil splashed up for the rings. Slowly releasing the pedal allows fuel to enter.
 
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Old 11-05-2017, 08:16 AM
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I checked the roof; plugs of the header are ok and latch hoses seems to be ok as well. This what happens:
I fully close the roof manually. I close the pressure relief valve and operate the roof electrically. It starts to open; the latch disengages and it pulls open until it comes to rest and the latch goes down into its resting position but the rear quarter window don't come up. The warning light "roof not closed" is on.

I close it electrically again. It comes up and closes, the latch comes out and engages the roof top hook as if it wants to pull it down, does that for 1 sec and then stops. If I let the pump running, it wines but no further action. All latches are well attached and not leaking.
I relief the pressure and close it manually.

As if the procedure stops prematurely???

Engine
I checked the fuses and relays and they are ok. I tried the other procedure as described by avern1 but no success. I havn't measured the voltage of the pump yet as my volt meter is not working properly...guess the next step would be to locate & to check the filter and the pump?
 
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Old 11-05-2017, 10:08 AM
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Check the fluid level in the reservoir. I should be between the two lines.
 
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Old 11-05-2017, 10:11 AM
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After you close the roof latch manually do the quarter windows go up? Were you able to check the fuel pressure?
 
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Old 11-07-2017, 04:26 AM
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Fluid level is ok between the 2 lines. I think I will do a full check of the plugs of the header and any switch there might be. I might have taken the wrong conclusion too early as the latch is basically working in the right sense and the center lights are lid (I admit I was trying to avoid removing the header as this is a real nightmare putting it back).

When closing the roof manually the windows don't go up and the warning "roof top not closed" stays on.

Fuel pressure not yet checked I will check the fuel filter & pump in the next days
 
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Old 11-07-2017, 07:34 AM
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Basic so I'm sure you've already checked it but the petcock on the side of the pump is fully screwed in? You may have caught it when changing the hoses.
 
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Old 11-09-2017, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by batroute
Basic so I'm sure you've already checked it but the petcock on the side of the pump is fully screwed in? You may have caught it when changing the hoses.
Although basic I already forgot it once but this one is now always checked.
 
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Old 11-09-2017, 07:58 AM
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Hard to say without having my hands on it but a few things to check. First I assume the roof was working properly before the hose replacement.

The roof will not work properly if the header plug is not plugged into the proper plug. If I recall properly the white plug for the header goes into the plug to the left of the center of the header the other plug on the right is the same is for the center light. If the plug is not in the proper plug the computers are unable to read the switches and the results are that it does not see the latch closed or open and the roof will go down but not close properly.

The other is that the roof latch hoses and crossed and that can be fixed at the pump.

The windows will not close until the ram lift switch is satisfied and most of the time it is related to the plug at the header or the switch in the ram is bad.

Let us know what you find.
 
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Old 11-09-2017, 08:25 AM
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Also check this switch. If that switch is stuck it will not send the proper signal to the computers.

Link http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...tchRepair4.jpg
Link JagRepair.com - A Jaguar Repair Information Resource
 
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Old 11-12-2017, 03:01 PM
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Alright, the roof issue is solved It was one of the white plugs that was not fully clipped in and fell apart after mounting (shame on me ) Back in place and the roof closes again as it should. Thanks for all the really good hints.

It was good having unmounted the header as there were some few new drops of the new hydraulic lines, so they got some new sealing tape as well.

Btw I am experiencing that the tissue covering the header is falling apart and the rubber layer is kind of desintegrating. Will see how I can fix that...it seems that this part is no longer available...

Engine issue:
I will replace the fuel filter first next week but as I cannot hear the pump running I guess that will be the next change....
Anyone having experiences with non OEM pumps?
 
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Old 11-12-2017, 03:11 PM
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Glad that the roof is working properly. As for the header material you can replace the material but that would involve finding replacement material of the same color removing the old and replace with the new. Not a difficult process.

As for the fuel pump I am assuming you checked the fuses and relays first.
 
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Old 11-18-2017, 12:14 PM
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Well, the fuses and relay are checked and ok. I jumped the relay's position 3 & 5 but the pump remains dead, voltage is ok though. Next thing will be the plug on the tank but I believe that the pump is to be replaced.
Today I changed the filter and I am about to think of making this famous fuel line tool as shown in multiple videos...let's see how this works...
 
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Old 01-07-2018, 12:29 PM
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It's done!
I had to pause for personal reasons but I attacked it today and I am happy to say that my beauty is back to normal and even better.

Following the numerous tips and hints that the froum provides and not to forget youtube, this afternoon was the day to do.
I "manufactured" 2 tools for the fuel lines and after having figured out how to use they actually came out super easily (I have 2!). After that and disconnecting some elec connectors and tubes in the trunk the tank came forward quite easily. I had only approx. 2 liters of gas left in the tank so I could dismount the pump quickly.
As I did not buy a OEM pump I had to redo the connector's cables and this was done with 2 heat shrinking connectors (sorry forgot to make pics).
The pump was tested before reinstalling it (learning from previous faults, yes!).

Putting back the fuel lines underneath the car (not even 5 minutes) and the big moment came and yes after 3 seconds of cranking the engine started and ran even smother than before (the car stood now for 5 month icon_confused.

Thank you all for your patience and good tips!!! I have added some pics of the tank pulled forward (30-40 centimeters not more) and of my "tools" basically inspired by a video from sam1174.

To all of you a happy 2018 and many happy rides!









 
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Old 01-07-2018, 05:32 PM
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glad to hear all has been restored operationally. I've marked the thread as resolved
 

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