Word has gotten around that I like these cars and have become quite handy with them, so now every stray cat from around the neighborhood follows me home.

The current one is a 2001 XK8 convertible with 150k on it.

After fixing a restricted performance/rear brakes/cruise control with a new brake pedal switch, replacing a worn out steering wheel and a good cleaning to the headliner and interior, now it is time to address other issues.

It has a very strong humming coming from underneath and the rear. I lifted onto jacks and put it in gear. Left rear wheel barely turned, the right wheel would not turn at all and a loud click was heard around the half shaft. Took the right tire off and gave the hub/disc a couple whacks with a hammer. It turned out the parking brake was frozen. The small switch under the handle is not connected to it so there is no light on the dash. Have to figure out how it goes back on. Break handle now ratchets and releases properly. Car is held in park barely so pads are likely worn out. I will eventually go in and replace clean the inside of the discs.

Wheels now turn but there remains a loud hum, sounds like a jet engine turbine and the car feels like it does not go through the gears properly. It does go through them when I use the left side of the J gate which leads me to believe the transmission is ok.

So I am thinking it may be the support bearing on the drive shaft or a bearing in the differential.
I will be lifting it again today to take a closer look.

First I will try the cheap repair by draining the diff gear oil and checking for metal shavings with a coffee filter, assuming there is any gear oil left in there. I have been told by an old mechanic that heavy grade gear oil might solve the humming. What say you?

Next options are to replace the drive shaft or the change out the diff carrier bearing?
I have access to a wrecked 1999 or 2003 xk8 and could also drop the rear carrier and replace the whole bit. They are much lower mileage cars at 60-70k.
Is there a DIY for removing the rear carrier?

 

Wow 168 views and not a word.
Guys it's getting lonely out here.
Somebody?
Help?

 

Love to help out, but past the limit of my experience.

Sometimes it takes a while for the truly wise mechanics to get on board. But they are out there.

 

Here's one forum member who dropped the rear suspension as a DIY... and made it way too good looking to ever sully with road dirt again.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-today-90942/

I have no real experience with a noisy diff but I could see how the heavy oil might quiet it down for a while. But if the bearings or races are damages, they will go sooner or later no matter what the oil.

If the price is right on the replacement, then it might be the cheapest path. Coventry West sells rebuilt diffs as well. More expensive but they are all new bearings and warranted.

 

After you fixed the brake problem was the hum still there under driving condition or, up on jack stands still? I would check oil condition, if it needs attention take care of that, then take it for road test. Sometimes you get funny noises from cars when the suspension is off loaded. Keep us informed.

 

Ok I will take back everything I said about y'all. Every three, four and five letter words I used.
I guess you heard me. Sorry.
Thanks for the replies.

Jag#4 You woke up the sleeping giants. Thxs

CCfulton great link I had not seen these videos before.

I do not see any evidence of oil leaking, the yoke and front seal are dry.
left half shaft is dry also, the right I will look again it seemed dirty but got late and had no light available.
I do understand heavy oil is but a temporary fix if at all.

diesedoc The car is new to me so I do not know the history. It spent several months without moving.
I took of both rear wheel and I rapped the hubs and managed to get the parking brake to engage and disengage. Took it for a spin but still felt noisy and was having trouble going through the gears.
Yesterday took off the brake caliper and the disk. Sanded the inside of the disk. There was some rust. Cleaned and actuated the break pads and mechanism back and forth several time. Reassembled. turned the hub by hand, still some scraping noises and a slight catch.
Took her for a spin and it is much better, quieter and shifting easier.
Today I will do the same to the passenger side wheel.

Still have not discarded the possibility of the noise coming from one or both rear bearings. I will keep checking.

I have changed the Diff oil on two Coupes, what a b#** did it on a lift and used a bit set from harbor freight that has a reduction from hex 3/4 to square 1/2 to get the plug out. Left the bit in place for the future owner to use.
Harbor freight part #67011 Square Drive Socket Caps


Looking at the convertible though it looks like a nightmare. I have not been able to even get my hand on the plug much less a wrench.
Reading through some old posts it seems as coming from the top with the wrench is the way. Not looking forward to this job.

And then there is the stench of that old fluid.

 

The parking brake cable has a bell crank setup in it, make sure that is not frozen especially if car has sat for awhile.

 

I forgot to return and report back. The noise turned out to be a frozen right rear wheel bearing. I replaced the entire hub/carrier from another car.

I will be proceeding to drop the IRS from that vehicle shortly and will post on that experience.
Thanks to all for the help.

 

After several consultation from local shops, I have a pinion bearing going out on my 00 XK8 at 53K! So far no one locally will touch it. I seem to have read a spot where the guy said to drop one side completely, the other just enough to get the carrier to side off, then replace with another unit attaching the dropped side, then raise both back into position. This sure would beat pulling the entire sub-assembly off the car! Does anyone have a more descriptive procedure? I'm begging shops now to do the work. I have a carrier out of a 01 with higher mileage sitting in my garage now. Also, there is a way to drill a two inch hole through your boot wall, exposing the drain plug. You can then suck the oil out with little problem. I stumbled on that on UTube.

 

Ah, the Sweet Smell of Success (S's to the 3rd power). I finally found a local shop who was not afeared of taking on the task of swapping out 'chunks'. Having purchased a salvaged chunk ($285 incl CA to GA shipping) from "Euro Chop Shop" on eBay, I just got a call saying it was in and running quite and smooth. Recommendation was for a 4-wheel alignment since they pulled the entire rear assembly. Labor was $695, which is less than I expected. The 'new' chunk has twice the miles on it, but, hey it is working. I am On the road again.