I must be being dim but I have just crawled under the Jag and I can get a short 1/2" drive extension into the differential filler plug and I can then get my ratchet onto that. I tried to see if it would budge but with little effort and it didn't. It's not dead straight but it's in.

It seems to me that I should be able to get that plug out although with some effort to be fair. This is without removing the sway bar or drilling holes.

What am I missing?

I assume getting the old oil out is the same problem no matter how you get the plug out.

2 litres to fill is right I think and I thought I'd use this or this if I can find it.

 

clearly you are not up to date with " to the garage "..You will note he drills the hole a bit low ..need be right up to the top of the vertical metal ...I drilled 4 holes and use a jig saw to cut between. You MUST MUST MUST use a wobble end to take it out or you will be in world of pain.If its a high milage I suggest you use 140 EP

 

He's the guy who drilled a hole and I thought well why not, and then I thought do I want a hole in the boot? So I took a look and maybe I'm wrong but I'm hoping I can avoid it. There's another thread where someone doesn't drill a hole but he takes the sway bar off and while I don't mind doing that I can't see that on my XK8 MY2000 it gets in the way. Something else does but not by much.

 

This is what I did. Easy peasy... I definitely did NOT go as big a hole,,, BUT I did get a hole saw that I KNEW I could get a body plug for. Like 2$ on Amazon. Slapped some por15 on the NEW body hole (there are many by the way) and slapped the body plug on wet,,, keeps it stuck,,, and went for a drive.

I have 4 cars and I guess it's like the lottery. The more time I spend being under a 2.xxx ton hunk of steel, the more likely I will be the lucky winner of FLAT-ness. When I can, I avoid getting under cars. That's jus me.

 

I understand to each his on. Having said that, I have ever since, regretted cutting a large access hole for my fuel pumps.
So when it came time to do the differentiaI, I opted not to drill, but to remove the swaybar, and fashion a 1/2" wobble extension from Harbor Freight cut down to 90mm in length with ground flats at the far end for a 12mm open end wrench. Those with larger hands may experience more difficulty.

 

KISS drill the F+++ing hole

 

I have some 3/8 wobble bars I can use if needs be and I'll report back. I'll get the oil and get under there

Anyone got any thoughts on the oils I'm considering? Looks like Pistnbroke suggests a straight 140 but that feels a bit thick - the car is at 80,000 miles.

 

140 EP is not straight 140 its 140 EP if you have a little play in the dif 140 EP is the way to go

 

For what it’s worth, if anyone reading this has a coupe, you don’t need to drill a hole, or remove sway bar or any other components in order to get a short tool on the fill plug. I just used a 1/2” extensions, but I think this tool from Amazon might be easier.

Will order it and report back







If I recall correctly, it takes a little less than two quarts. I’ll correct
this shortly if wrong. PS I use Mobil 1 75w-140. It works great !

Z

 

Yes and when you got the plug out how do you pump out the oil and re fill ? Let alone get the plug back?

 

I used a large Mitty-Vac from Amazon ( isn’t everything ) to suck out the old fluid and the same device to pump in the new. It comes with different sized plastic tubes to use.

It cost about $100. But there are other cheaper such devices

Mityvac 7201 Manual Fluid Evacuator Plus with 2.3 Gallon Reservoir; Evacuates or Dispenses Fluids with Push Button; Evacuate Through The Dipstick Tube https://a.co/d/1K6oPSN

I put the plug back in with the same tool, but I know the coupes are easier to deal with than the convertibles. I’ve read on the forum than some folks use a short length of 1/2” bar stock.





Z

 

I used to remove oil (slow but works if u have compressor). Had to do it twice because first Castrol oil caused noise on tight turn. Changed oil to RedLine (there is thread here about it somewhere).

 

I use a Macnaught 16oz suction gun along with a stepdown to 3/8" Tygon hose with a clamp to keep it on the bottom of the differential (just don't pinch the hose closed).
In reference to reinstalling the plug, as I said above, those with larger hands may experience more difficulty, but my dainty, though grubby hands have served me well.

 

$100 for a pump just to change the diff oil .... you must as they say in the UK have money to burn.

 

I think that the wobble end will need to be 1/2", lest that was just a typo.
While you are at it, I suggest that you remove and clean the 14mm breather atop the differential if so equipped.

 

Dr D...did the early 97 diffs have the breather ? and is it accessible from below?

 

We just completed a Differential lube (NAPA GL5 Synth 75W140) change on the Coupe (160K) along with fluid change only on the Transmission (Mercon SP). Originally we drilled and taped the rear housing for a 1/8" NPT internal Hex plug. This required an additional 1" hole saw to open up access on the driver's side of existing hole for a location that did not interfere with the ring gear. We also used a short piece ( 3/4"L) of 1/2" square bar stock to remove the plug. Our magnet tool holds the bar stock in fill plug while the Thin Tappet wrench slides between the cross member and the other bar. Only about 3/16" or 4mm opening available for the wrench to slip through. The refill was almost 2 full qts. The ATF change went good with 4 Qts. of Mercon SP. Previously we modified an 8mm long L shaped Allen Hex tool to proper length to access the fill plug. ATF still red and looked great. Rear Dif. lube (Castrol Snytrax 90w) was not discolored. Used a Harbor Freight fluid pump to transfer liquids into the housings. Cool weather was nice to work in. :-)

 

ha ha. I live on social security retirement, well under $1,500 a month . Pretty sure that puts me in the poverty class. But not complaining. I have enough $$$ to buy gasoline. What else is there ?

back to the Mity-Vac, I use it for auto transmission fluid, engine coolant, etc. Most everything except engine oil. I have the Fumoto drain plug, so engine oil changes are very tidy already.

Regarding the Mity-Vac, it does need to be cleaned out very well between uses. Some fluids are said to hurt the seals, so I spend as much time getting it spotless, as I do using it. So far it’s lasted 2 years and shows no signs of wear

Z

 

I drill the hole and then use a large hole saw. (2"?)
I have 3 X308 parts cars and there are factory 'hole plugs' in the boot floor so I steal them from the sedans and place them in the hole after I drain/fill the X100 diff.

The 4 tab plugs are about 50mm so whatever hole saw will work. (should be close to 50mm or 2")

Vacuum fluid extractor and then a modified pump-up sprayer to add the gear oil.

 

Nice use of the sprayer

Z