I read most of the threads on here about the secondary tensioners change, but am maybe a little vague about the "tensioning wrench" tool (303-532), the one that looks like a wrench with two teeth on it (not the cam lock down bracket).

To clarify, ts seems like it's used for when you're tightening the exhaust sprocket back on, you push the tool counter-clockwise, and then tighten to the specified ~85 ftlbs - I assume this is to get the correct slack in the secondaries chains when you tighten the sprocket on?

-I am taking off the valve covers now
-Will be changing the upper secondaries only
-I have two cam lockdown tools to do both sides at once

Thanks for any clarification

 

On the right track ...

Can I suggest that rather than thinking about clockwise/counter, just know you want to apply pressure on the tool so as to snug the driven, rather than the slack, side of the chain. This I think will be easier to keep straight as you're doing it.

 

That helps, thanks.

Valve covers almost off, so far so good! Only thing is I noticed almost all of the coil boots had oil on them when I pulled them out, on both driver and passenger sides , I have the new round seals, but is that pretty common?

 

Yeah thats a fairly common problem with old oil seals,wouldnt worry unless you have a swimming pool of oil in there.Just wipe the oil off and carry on.

 

Another quick question - removed the exhaust sprocket bolt and washer, but the sprocket and chain are still tight in place - how do I move them so I can get the old tensioner out? I tried applying a bit of force but the sprocket isnt budging.

EDIT:
Figured it out, I put the "tensioner wrench" on and lightly tapped it to get the center of the stuck exhaust sprocket to loosen up a bit. That worked, and the sprocket easily pried off then.

 

Sounds like you're on your way. If you install the new tensioners on the correct side first try you're home free. Don't be suprised if the chains loosen up after you remove the cam positioners, the cams will rotate a bit. Enjoy sleeping soundly knowing your engine won't handgrenade on you.

 

Just wanted to remind others that there is a method of changing the tensioners that requires no cam adjustments. If you zip tie the seondary chain to the two cam sprockets and unbolt and lift the exhaust cam up, you can remove the tensioner and then just bolt the cam back down and release the tensioner pin. A whole lot quicker!

 

I second that oldmots! I did mine that way and can't understand why anybody will do it any other way.

 

So your thread answers my almost new thread-R models need the cam tensioners replaced also I see. Does the blower need to come off 1st?

 

No, cam covers need to come off, blower can stay on.

 

The reason I remove the sprockets and lock the crank/cams is because I don't want to remove the exhaust cams and I have ALL the tools needed (after 30 years of working on Jaguars I have tools I have not used in years). It takes a few minutes to lock the crank and install the cam lock.

bob gauff

 

You know that removing the cam invites bearing surface damage while moving the cam around and the need to back down the cam nuts in small increments to prevent stressing the cam while releasing valve spring tension, so your method is safer. The zip tie method just reduces the chance for a mistimed cam due to inexperience. If the zip tie guy is very careful with swinging the cam around and takes his time releasing and reseating the cam, he will do fine.

 

It runs in my mind that someone reported breaking a cam using the zip tie method.
Many haven't but you take your chances.

 

I for one am happy I chose the cam lock down method on the XKR, after taking off the valve covers the tensioners were pretty easy to do and the rest of the repair went well without any hickups. My 02 XKR tensioners at 75k miles had cracks on the fronts, one was seized, and the other almost seized.

I felt confident in the repair having everything securely locked down with the correct tools. Good luck to any else doing the repair in the future!

 

The trouble I had with removing the spocket was totally brain-cramp related. Hit the end of my wrench with a 5lb hammer to loosen the Allen bolt and smashed the VVT solenoid! Luckily I found a used one. I wonder what I would have screwed up removing the cam?

 

On this question of the "twist tie / lift cam" method vs. the "lock cams / remove sprocket" method, how about this for a rule-of-thumb:

If you've never loosened or removed a cam before, don't make this job your first one; use the "lock cams" method. Otherwise, go with whichever method seems easier.

 

the passenger side bank is why you don't do the zip tie method.
also chains do stretch over time.

 

Someone mentioned turning the engine over by hand until all the cam lobes were off the valves to take pressure off the camshaft before you loosen the bearing caps. Seems this would lower the chance of stress on the cam and perhaps breakage.
Vector