Thanks for the kind words Matt always appreciated.

The LED light rings do look pretty good IMO, but they were expensive...... However I have now redesigned them. The problem was there was so many parts and I had the LED PCB professionally made just for the job, biggest problem was the low numbers I required them, it would cost me $75 per PCB.



In the pic below you have the original style on the left and the newer on the right, personally I prefer the look of the original, 'but needs must', and I had to find a way of reducing the cost.



You can even wire these up as DRLs if you wish, the easy way is to plug into your side light circuit, all very easy

 

Beautiful work!

 

Love you guys.

I've been getting random CELs and P0171 and P0174s for a few weeks now and an occasional "reduced performance" with no actual reduction in performance. This morning, the reduced performance light was on when I got in the car and on the way to work, there was definitely reduced performance. Turned around before I got to the interstate, found this page, reach under the concertina to check for cracks and crunch-crunch. Hmm, plastic isn't supposed to do that. "Frangible" is the work, I believe.

Oh well, at least it's good riding weather and I can get this sorted over the next few days.

 

I actually now produce and have in stock some nice easy to fit induction pipe, these are meant mainly for the 4.0 XK8 or XKR

 

Tony-

Once again, that's a great looking engine bay, and a normally-aspirated one, at that. Very nice.

A semi-stupid question here...what effect does a silver metal intake pipe have on intake air temperature? Seems like the metal would hold more heat than the plastic intake tube, driving post-MAF air temperatures up?

 

This looks great and I'd be interested in getting one.

XKRacer, would you be willing to do a group sale?

 

The pipe does get warm in standing traffic but as soon as you move the temperature drops back to normal, you should have a heat shield over the top of your cat which does protect the induction pipe a lot, I see many cars when this has been removed.

 

I could be, would depend on how many we are talking about? I will give forum members a 10% discount on this product

 

Right now, getting the car drivable again is the #1 priority so the Nissan kit it will be for now.

With that said, I don't think I've seen a price for the fabbed part yet so 10% of ? is ?

 

Wait a minute though. Isn't this part suppose to be able to flex slightly to accommodate engine movement? (Hence the somewhat useless accordion part). How does the fabbed part take account of that?

 

Right at the bottom of the page... Paragon Design UK - Jaguar XK8 XKR Engine Upgrades and Detailing

 

You dont need to worry about engine movement, the air box is not exactly fitted, only by a rubber cotton reel mounting and 2 pegs going into grommets, plenty of movement there

 

The fix is in. I used the Nissan part. It looked promising at first with the reduced performance message going away but once around the block and it was back, the car was performing terribly and resetting the CEL only lasted a short time.

I've often heard that the wire clips are not very good and it seemed as if the one towards the rear might have been not have been seating the rubber well (and these clips are annoyingly short IMO) . So this morning, I went out and bought a couple of jubilee clips. Once applied, I took it out for a couple of short test drives. All seemed well and the CEL eventually went out on its own.

With that said, seeing as how I had to pay $30 for the part at the Nissan dealer and the proper Jaguar part is only $67 with free shipping, I kinda wished I'd gone for that instead. However, since the car is working well now, it's all good. I think I will try and find a way to protect it from the heat which I suspect helped with the deterioration of the other part. I'll try and get a picture of it up sometime soon too.

 

Update: The codes came back. I ordered a new replacement part (which from the quality of it, I suspect is a cheap Chinese knock-off but definitely has no holes) and that still didn't help. I guess I'm going to have to put my troubleshooting hat on...

 

I love a good lean/rich mystery...which way is yours leaning? LTFT numbers handy?

 

Too lean, both banks. The Bluetooth OBD thing I ordered arrived this week so I should be able to get some trim info going soon.

 

The ODB/Torque thing was not too helpful. All the trim figures available on the free version of Torque showed constant values. I might have considered the paid version but decided to go ahead and try a visual inspection anyway.

The thin film of oil around the oil filler indicated that may be at issue (is the o-ring on the filler cap supposed to be that hard?) and the top o-ring on the norma connector on the front left of the valve cover was torn. I replaced both o-rings (happened to have a couple left over from an a/c job I did) and cleaned and reseated the oil filler then cleared the code. No CEL so far and the car does feel like it's responding better so I think I may have got it.