ECM Component Help
#1
ECM Component Help
Hi I have Codes P1368 which leads to P0352,P0353,P0355,P0358 like many others, my question is what other components are associated with the ignition modules, that I can buy and change.
I have replaced all the capacitors below, that did not solve the problem, as you can see 1 or more had leaked, done every cable and module swap etc, same codes always come back, and sent ECM off to be tested but being an intermittent fault, nothing was found.
I do not have any pictures of changed capacitors was in a hurry to get it in the car and try it.
I have replaced all the capacitors below, that did not solve the problem, as you can see 1 or more had leaked, done every cable and module swap etc, same codes always come back, and sent ECM off to be tested but being an intermittent fault, nothing was found.
I do not have any pictures of changed capacitors was in a hurry to get it in the car and try it.
#2
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,077
Received 2,291 Likes
on
1,503 Posts
Your issue does seem firmly planted around ignition module #2, but you say you've swopped them over?
Looks clean inside there:- did you catch all 7 of the ECM caps?
I imagine you can discount the ignition relay as the other group isn't affected, although the purple/white feed from it splices to each module.
Looks clean inside there:- did you catch all 7 of the ECM caps?
I imagine you can discount the ignition relay as the other group isn't affected, although the purple/white feed from it splices to each module.
#3
Your issue does seem firmly planted around ignition module #2, but you say you've swopped them over?
Looks clean inside there:- did you catch all 7 of the ECM caps?
I imagine you can discount the ignition relay as the other group isn't affected, although the purple/white feed from it splices to each module.
Looks clean inside there:- did you catch all 7 of the ECM caps?
I imagine you can discount the ignition relay as the other group isn't affected, although the purple/white feed from it splices to each module.
#4
#5
Yes I Agee but unfortunately we don’t have the kind of electrical specialist in the UK, that you have in the US. I have spent £60 already. No one seems to know what other components are related to this problem.
Its a shame we end up scrapping the cars. Very little second hand value over here.
Its a shame we end up scrapping the cars. Very little second hand value over here.
Last edited by Bones28; 11-17-2018 at 09:41 AM.
#6
The following users liked this post:
Bones28 (11-17-2018)
#7
If you can't find there, consider shipping to ASI. I believe they charge $55 for testing, which is applied to the repair cost if they can fix it. Cheaper than having the dealer replace it for more than the car is worth.
Automotive Scientific Inc. Your #1 Source for ECU, TCU, ABS, EBCM, Climate Control and Speedometer Repairs
Automotive Scientific Inc. Your #1 Source for ECU, TCU, ABS, EBCM, Climate Control and Speedometer Repairs
The following users liked this post:
Bones28 (11-17-2018)
Trending Topics
#8
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,077
Received 2,291 Likes
on
1,503 Posts
Does it appear to be in any way temperature-related?
The intermittents can be a pig to track down, I'm afraid.
#9
#10
Jaguar xk8 4.0 ecu capacitor problems
Did any one get to the bottom of the jaguar xk8 4.0 liter ignition module 2 problems I've replaced capacitor in the circuit board was OK for 415 miles and now playing up again the capacitor are fine and working but now and again the fault comes back and cuts half the engine and limps home on half engine firing coils have been swapped from one side to the other side in the module one side both modules have been changed and new plugs I would of thought the problem would of come back straight away not work for 415mile then start playing up as before it was all the time as the capacitor on the module side had leaked out so was replaced after the car run the best is every run getting almost 28mile to the galleon and the pulling away it flys it was so so quick off the mark and the gear change so smoothly and fast I just can't see what else the problem can be any help would be appreciated Graham from motorvation vehicle electrician this was done for a customer am I missing something many thanks
#11
#12
As you can see the problem as the capacitor are leaking and breaking down, I've replaced them and all was good the vehicle did 415mile faultless then problem returned but it still the same fault code but capacitor are all good and not leaking
#13
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,077
Received 2,291 Likes
on
1,503 Posts
Graham,
All looks pretty clean inside the ECM.
What year is your car? The cap. issue seems to be confined mostly to the 97 ECM - I've no idea why.
What does the dash message centre say? Have the codes read and post them here:- the actual codes, not any interpretation of them. The cheap ELM devices will capture P codes.
All looks pretty clean inside the ECM.
What year is your car? The cap. issue seems to be confined mostly to the 97 ECM - I've no idea why.
What does the dash message centre say? Have the codes read and post them here:- the actual codes, not any interpretation of them. The cheap ELM devices will capture P codes.
#14
Graham,
All looks pretty clean inside the ECM.
What year is your car? The cap. issue seems to be confined mostly to the 97 ECM - I've no idea why.
What does the dash message centre say? Have the codes read and post them here:- the actual codes, not any interpretation of them. The cheap ELM devices will capture P codes.
All looks pretty clean inside the ECM.
What year is your car? The cap. issue seems to be confined mostly to the 97 ECM - I've no idea why.
What does the dash message centre say? Have the codes read and post them here:- the actual codes, not any interpretation of them. The cheap ELM devices will capture P codes.
(? Yes this is a 1997 vehicle one of the very first made in the first months of making the models as they only made if for just only a year then changed lots of things on the vehicle, because of problems like the throttle body .this is not my car all I have done is repaired the ECU which worked fine for 415miles then started to play up again with the same faults and fault codes again referencing ignition module 2 fault
which comes down to the capacitor on the board leaking and breaking down which I have replaced as I said the previous messages the vehicle worked for 415miles perfectly gear changes were lovely and fast and I was getting more miles to the gallon/liter averageing about 28 miles to the gallon/liter. I rechecked the ECU board and check the capacitor for sign of breaking down again and there is none. If to see the photos from be for of the capacitors they had started to break down and leak
as seen in this photo please click on it and look more closely at the capacitor in front of the transistor which is the one breaking down . I wait your reply with what you think. many thanks graham from motivation East Sussex England vehicle electrician.
#15
Graham, real long shot but who knows. See the sky blue resistors? This typically means they are flame proof resistors. I've seen them protect overloaded transistors in some cases. The flameproof resistor will open if it fails.
This won't cause a capacitor to leak, but WTH, it's easy enough to check. Just wanted to suggest a quick evaluation of them to see if any are open.
John
John
This won't cause a capacitor to leak, but WTH, it's easy enough to check. Just wanted to suggest a quick evaluation of them to see if any are open.
John
John
#16
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,077
Received 2,291 Likes
on
1,503 Posts
Hi Graham,
Yes I can see with the image expanded:
I'm not clear if you have already replaced it and this is the 'before' picture?
You should change all 7 electrolytics, not just this one, and try to carefully clean the crud residue off the board. Q-tip and some isopropyl alcohol will help - or even plain water used sparingly and ensure the board is properly dry afterwards.
The originals have been superseded - here are the Nichicon part #s for replacement:
UPJ1H100MDD1TA 10uF 50V 105c (x2)
UPJ1J470MPD 63volts 47uF 105c (x2)
UPS1A221MED 10volts 220uF 105c (x2)
UPM1H561MHD6 50volts 560uF 105c
Yes I can see with the image expanded:
I'm not clear if you have already replaced it and this is the 'before' picture?
You should change all 7 electrolytics, not just this one, and try to carefully clean the crud residue off the board. Q-tip and some isopropyl alcohol will help - or even plain water used sparingly and ensure the board is properly dry afterwards.
The originals have been superseded - here are the Nichicon part #s for replacement:
UPJ1H100MDD1TA 10uF 50V 105c (x2)
UPJ1J470MPD 63volts 47uF 105c (x2)
UPS1A221MED 10volts 220uF 105c (x2)
UPM1H561MHD6 50volts 560uF 105c
#17
Hi there,
Is there a pcb circuit schematic for the ECM ?
The various electronic diagrams that I have viewed all stop at the ECM connector and treat the ECM as a black box.
Given the above ECM pcb photos, I just wondered if anyone has (or knows where I can see) the pcb schematic? I am particularly interested to know what C401 does i.e. what part of the wider circuit does it relate to?.
Thx
Dianne
Is there a pcb circuit schematic for the ECM ?
The various electronic diagrams that I have viewed all stop at the ECM connector and treat the ECM as a black box.
Given the above ECM pcb photos, I just wondered if anyone has (or knows where I can see) the pcb schematic? I am particularly interested to know what C401 does i.e. what part of the wider circuit does it relate to?.
Thx
Dianne
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mello12u
X-Type ( X400 )
2
03-29-2015 06:01 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)